Classic Menswear Lounge

TweedyProf · Oct 6, 2014

unbelragazzo said:
Here's a full-length picture of that Formosa suit:
Looks pretty awesome to me, but I might be biased.

Yes, this shot does make it look much better. The close-up distorts and over accentuates the wrinkling etc.

@unbelragazzo

Do you think the eidos Lorenzo fronts are cut even more dramatic than the Formosas, having tried on both? There's an appealing "curve" in the Formosa jacket above. Funny thing about the lorenzo, the bottom button looks really close (too close) to the bottom of the jacket, though I think this is an illusion due to the cut. Newcomer might be vying stitches for most NMWA kops.

jrd617 · Oct 6, 2014

The Formosa quarters are way better than those Eidos. Just my preference.

unbelragazzo · Oct 6, 2014

Yes, Lorenzo fronts are more open than the Formosa fronts. The button just looks closer to the jacket hem due to the open fronts I think. And perhaps in this case due to the high contrast button.

TweedyProf · Oct 6, 2014

jrd617 said:
The Formosa quarters are way better than those Eidos. Just my preference.

I think I have the same preference, though I'd like to try the Lorenzo on. The curve in the Formosa is more gentle. The sharp curve in the Eidos leads to this illusion of the bottom button (see pics above).

TweedyProf · Oct 6, 2014

unbelragazzo said:
Yes, Lorenzo fronts are more open than the Formosa fronts. The button just looks closer to the jacket hem due to the open fronts I think. And perhaps in this case due to the high contrast button.

I think the Lorenzo looks better unbuttoned...says someone who hasn't tried one on.

EliodA · Oct 6, 2014

jrd617 said:
The Formosa quarters are way better than those Eidos. Just my preference.

I agree. But as @TweedyProf already noted, the buttoning point is too low on both, throwing the proportions between top and bottom half off. It also causes the buttons to sit too closely together, which looks awkward to me.
I guess this is all a result of the trend of wanting suits to look less formal. Lowering the buttoning point helps with that but to me, both Formosa and Eidos have gone a bit too far.

in stitches · Oct 6, 2014

I find after a good amount of wears the Formosa quarters look much less aggressive.

unbelragazzo · Oct 6, 2014

EliodA said:
I agree. But as @TweedyProf already noted, the buttoning point is too low on both, throwing the proportions between top and bottom half off. It also causes the buttons to sit too closely together, which looks awkward to me.
I guess this is all a result of the trend of wanting suits to look less formal. Lowering the buttoning point helps with that but to me, both Formosa and Eidos have gone a bit too far.

If anything, the current trend is for higher buttoning points. Formosa/Eidos buttoning point is very much what I would view as classically proportioned:

The drape cut almost requires it.

jrd617 · Oct 6, 2014

Can Formosa be considered drape or close to drape? Is the Neapolitan cut a close relative of Scholte's cut? Is there less drape/chest swelling in a Neapolitan jacket?

I'm talking major differences/similarities here.

(Formosa might have different shoulder expression, # of sleeve buttons, different sized sleeves, etc - minor differences)

unbelragazzo · Oct 6, 2014

jrd617 said:
Can Formosa be considered drape or close to drape? Is the Neapolitan cut a close relative of Scholte's cut? Is there less drape/chest swelling in a Neapolitan jacket? Larger sleeves?

There are heated debates over who is the true heir to the drape cut. And also heated debates over what constitutes "the Neapolitan cut." So it's difficult to generalize. I would consider the standard Formosa cut a distant relative of the drape cut.

jrd617 · Oct 6, 2014

How did Scholte's cut get to Napoli?

How long have the Neapolitan sartoria's been producing the archetypal "Neapolitan cut"? (Soft shoulders w/ spalla camicia, folds in the chest). If Scholte's cut originated in the 1900's-1910's, I'd hazard it had tricked down to Italy by the 1950s...

Someone should find out the pedigree and write a book/blog post...

unbelragazzo · Oct 6, 2014

This excellent post from @dieworkwear is a good place to start:

http://dieworkwear.com/post/7304894469/seeing-italian-history-in-renato-ciardi

The spalla camicia is neither a necessary nor a sufficient detail for making a jacket Neapolitan.

Stencil · Oct 6, 2014

Am I correct in thinking that Neapolitain tailors were making "British" jackets in the first place because Brits touring the continent often stopped in Naples and asked for lightweight clothes to deal with the heat? Or is that just some hoary old iGent chestnut . . .

unbelragazzo · Oct 6, 2014

Stencil said:
Am I correct in thinking that Neapolitain tailors were making "British" jackets in the first place because Brits touring the continent often stopped in Naples and asked for lightweight clothes to deal with the heat? Or is that just some hoary old iGent chestnut . . .

That is the story, yes. At least as handed down by Neapolitan tailors, who directly or indirectly have supplied many iGent chestnuts....

ridethecliche · Oct 6, 2014

Can someone point me to a resource about all these different styles of jackets and cuts? I'd love to learn some of the history!

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