Classic Menswear Lounge

kulata · Nov 4, 2014

This is a good example showing how restrictive SF rules can be. White shirt and northern lights.....

unbelragazzo · Nov 4, 2014

Also a strange jacket for peak lapels. I think it looks good though.

kulata · Nov 4, 2014

Didn't even notice it was peak lapels, I guess due to the unusual peaks. But the whole looks nice and I dare say coherent.

kulata · Nov 4, 2014

Yukio Akamine will get lambasted in the "good taste" thread

Claghorn · Nov 4, 2014

This was briefly touched upon in the constructive criticism thread. SF rules really are treated as guidelines. I don't think anyone is going to see that picture and think "white shirt, pants darker than jacket, it must look bad." At least I hope not.

What seems more likely to occur is someone citing the "rule" in response to either someone failing to pull a look off (in validation of the rule) or succeeding (in contradiction). But what is often lost--or at least not mentioned, perhaps because it is assumed--is that these guidelines can be ignored with success, it's just harder. Which is why those who do pull off looks outside the standard rules of thumb are folks like Yukio or SFers with a lot of practice working within the standard standards, developing an eye and feeling for what looks good, and then relying on that eye rather than theory.

kulata · Nov 4, 2014

Claghorn said:
This was briefly touched upon in the constructive criticism thread. SF rules really are treated as guidelines. I don't think anyone is going to see that picture and think "white shirt, pants darker than jacket, it must look bad." At least I hope not.

What seems more likely to occur is someone citing the "rule" in response to either someone failing to pull a look off (in validation of the rule) or succeeding (in contradiction). But what is often lost--or at least not mentioned, perhaps because it is assumed--is that these guidelines can be ignored with success, it's just harder. Which is why those who do pull off looks outside the standard rules of thumb are folks like Yukio or SFers with a lot of practice working within the standard standards, developing an eye and feeling for what looks good, and then relying on that eye rather than theory.

Solid post. I am glad that we are finally treating the rules for what they really are. Guidelines.

Developing that eye is the key to style IMO, that's when you aren't flummoxed by any changes and look good in anything you put on outside one's comfort zone.

FlyingMonkey · Nov 4, 2014

kulata said:
Solid post. I am glad that we are finally treating the rules for what they really are. Guidelines.

Has it ever been otherwise?

jrd617 · Nov 4, 2014

kulata said:
This is a good example showing how restrictive SF rules can be. White shirt and northern lights.....

That's a lesser form of "Northern Lights."

True, the top half is lighter than the bottom half, but the bottom half isn't that dark. Chocolate brown or charcoal pants would be dark.

I think a light colored jacket and medium-shade pants can work. (In this case, that cream and tan jacket with the caramel colored pants)

It's the light colored jacket and dark-shade pants that don't work. For example, I dislike this fit:

350x700px-LL-ac04a0e4_tumblr_mvj84xwXkK1r2zz19o1_1280.jpeg

kulata · Nov 4, 2014

FlyingMonkey said:
Has it ever been otherwise?

You missed the cardinal sins?

@jrd617 the fit you quoted isn't as good as Yukio's but it isn't bad at all and a different shade of dark brown tie will bring it together nicely. As is, tie and pants too matchy.

Here is Barbera doing light jacket and very dark pants. The tie plays a big role in making it successful

sugarbutch · Nov 4, 2014

jrd617 said:
kulata said:

This is a good example showing how restrictive SF rules can be. White shirt and northern lights.....

Click to expand...

That's a lesser form of "Northern Lights."

True, the top half is lighter than the bottom half, but the bottom half isn't that dark. Chocolate brown or charcoal pants would be dark.

I think a light colored jacket and medium-shade pants can work. (In this case, that cream and tan jacket with the caramel colored pants)

It's the light colored jacket and dark-shade pants that don't work. For example, I dislike this fit:

But you're wrong to dislike it.

(I would probably go with a different color for the tie, though.)

TweedyProf · Nov 4, 2014

The Barbera is for me a check too far (I'd change the tie), but I appreciate what he was trying to do. There's a nice use of a tattersall.

I agree with SB about Pingson's fit and about the tie. It's all very earth (ground) toned. I'm feeling some sort of green tie with some large scale pattern (a little rust/orange) would be nice in keeping with the fit.

The Akamine fits are as refreshing as the pop of that white collar. Nice finds, K.

EliodA · Nov 4, 2014

Rules/guidelines are a good starting point for people who want to learn how to dress well and want to avoid failures. Experienced dressers with a developed style and taste like Messrs. Akamine and Barbera will be aware of those rules but have the confidence and skills to disregard them when they feel so inclined.
SF dogmatists who start screaming 'fail' whenever they see Northern Lights or navy trousers or such, clearly still have a long way to go....

jrd617 · Nov 4, 2014

Meh, don;t care for that fit

Would be better if that jacket was mid-grey rather than light grey.

kulata said:
Here is Barbera doing light jacket and very dark pants. The tie plays a big role in making it successful

ridethecliche · Nov 4, 2014

Imho, the barbera fit works well because everything is pretty casual. The pants might be grey wool, but they look like flannel which has a cool texture to it and isn't 'city slick'.

Everything else is pretty casual, and it looks pretty great!

jrd617 · Nov 4, 2014

darker jacket looks better here... several examples... like ctp in the middle or cantabrigian near the right

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