A thread for discussion of Classic Menswear theory and principles
Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF JUL 6, 2015 Last post on 7/12/15 at 5:06pm in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF APR 20, 2015 Last post on 4/26/15 at 5:41pm in Classic Menswear
- Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) Last post on 3/22/17 at 9:17am in Classic Menswear
- Rock Your Socks- show your sock, shoe & pant combos Last post on Today at 7:13 am in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF AUG 24, 2015 Last post on 5/28/16 at 9:36am in Classic Menswear
Tokyo Diaries, Day 1: It Begins! Ring Jacket, Petrosolaum, and Jun...
Last edited: 6/22/15
- Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800Last edited: 4/26/16
- What to Wear to (Almost) Any WeddingLast edited: 4/25/16
- Allen Edmonds: Sizing GuideLast edited: 4/29/16
- Alden Shoes Sizing Guide: 379X LastLast edited: 4/4/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Blake
- H.N. White
- House of Kydos
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- once a day
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
Classic Menswear Loungepost #1 of 331810/4/14 at 9:50amThread Starterpost #2 of 331810/4/14 at 9:53amThread Starter
Let me start with Gerry Nelson (@Gerry Nelson) who has posted some beautiful fits and photos (he's a professional photographer)
The fit on the top illustrates a really nice use of scale and pattern combination. Three patterns are probably as much as most should attempt, here stripes, dots and checks. The choice of a silk cream square (I think) is just right...keeps the outfit from being too busy. The shoes are fantastic, and perfect for this fit but the big question is: are those purple flannels?
If I had to pick at a few nits, the stripes on the shirt and on the overcheck are too close in scale and color and the pants might be too close in contrast but we'd have to see a full fit pic.
Some variations that might be nice
A brown textured tie (wool, grenadine) might accentuate the coat and indeed, I might try a deep rust (e.g. a donegal tweed). On the shirt, fine pencil stripes, either brown, silver or some shade of blue, perhaps intermediate between check and tie. Or, one could try a small checked shirt in brown or navy.
Squares: if the tie were solid, I think a slightly busier square would work. A brighter orange/rust might be interesting; deep navy paisley with appropriate tones or a brown.post #3 of 331810/4/14 at 10:19ampost #4 of 331810/4/14 at 10:22ampost #5 of 331810/4/14 at 10:28ampost #6 of 331810/4/14 at 10:29amOK, I will bite; I hope it's ok for members other than those nominated to post commentary - if not I am happy to delete this post.
Gerry's fit above is interesting in that it is characteristic of a look that seems popular both on Tumblr and WAYWRN, but which the "old guard" would, I think, regard with disdain. Those of you who were around for Vox's "coherent combinations" treatise can probably guess the reason why. To the eye of someone accustomed to seeing in this tradition, the tie is discordant. That is a business tie. Or a city tie. Whatever you want to call it. This outfit of Gerry's has the opposite "problem":
That said, these distinctions are disappearing as the number of people who understand them dwindles. That's not necessarily a bad thing. As I said, these sorts of juxtapositions are ascendant in #menswear. I am not enough of an aesthetic absolutist to claim that one tradition has a monopoly on taste, and that the view from within that tradition is the only one with the right perspective.
Clothes change their meaning over time just as words do. Today when I say the word "awful," English speakers have an immediate and intuitive sense of what I mean. But not too long ago, this word had a meaning close to the opposite of its current one. The same is true for "egregious." We need not necessarily mourn the death of one meaning and the rise of another, but I think it's at least worth noticing for those who have an interest in dress.post #7 of 331810/4/14 at 10:45amQuote:Originally Posted by PCK1
This is going to be sacrilegious, but I think Vox's buttoning point could be lower, he could use a little more room in the chest (bowing lapels on both suits), and finally, his sleeves could be tapered slightly more. A slightly higher shirt collar wouldn't look bad either. Colours and combinations are impeccable, although one could say that a white shirt and grey grenadine are too formal for a BlazerSuitTM.post #8 of 331810/4/14 at 10:49amThread Starterpost #9 of 331810/4/14 at 10:54amThread StarterQuote:Originally Posted by Monkeyface
This is going to be sacrilegious, but I think Vox's buttoning point could be lower, he could use a little more room in the chest (bowing lapels on both suits), and finally, his sleeves could be tapered slightly more. A slightly higher shirt collar wouldn't look bad either. Colours and combinations are impeccable, although one could say that a white shirt and grey grenadine are too formal for a BlazerSuitTM.
I suspect the bowing in the lapel is due to the square, it seems mostly on that side, and probably just the way his arm is posed and due to the static nature of posing. The only issue with these, for me, is that they are classic and the choices are impeccable. Sort of CBD 101 or CBD 101H ('H" for honors). Many experienced posters would be TA-ing that class (ok, the academic metaphor is perhaps too tired).
I guess I would have thought that Gerry's dotted tie would be more casual, for the spacing and size of the dots. Cf. a microdot tie.
I hope Gerry doesn't mind two of his fits being posted. Of course, it's just him and Vox at this point...post #10 of 331810/4/14 at 10:58ampost #11 of 331810/4/14 at 11:08amThread Starter
On Gerry's second pic, if I remember correctly, it was for a Loud Tie Friday Challenge. Paisley's I find very difficult to wear, and my inclination is to have one that is more muted and worn with a DB where the energy of the pattern is reduced visually.
I agree with Unbel about the importance of principles first (I can't help it, I'm an academic, like him). Still, principles are stated in terms of concepts, and concepts are often vague and indeed, can change their meaning over time too. On the dotted tie as business tie, I suspect Unbel would agree that a large dotted shantung is more casual than a micro-dotted tie.
to identify the extremes. I took Gerry's to be more towards the latter. Where should one draw the line? Is a man with 15 hairs on his head bald ?post #12 of 331810/4/14 at 11:13ampost #13 of 331810/4/14 at 11:16amThread Starter
Also, @edmorel, you are more than welcome to post.
I was thinking of this thread as a parallel to the 20thumbs thread, with practical goals of the Good Taste thread, discussion oriented but with the constructive and friendly mood of the Noodle's thread.
I make no presumptions about level of expertise beyond the fact that people have learned the basics, have tried to implement them, and are thoughtful about clothes.post #14 of 331810/4/14 at 11:19amThread Starterpost #15 of 331810/4/14 at 11:24amI don't want to claim to speak for history, but I consider any dotted, or really any neat unless the scale is really large, a business tie. The shantung dots is more casual, but it's still a tie for suits, especially in that stark color way. Wear that with a linen suit or a PoW fresco or something. I have knit ties with dots that aren't white that I wear with odd jackets (such as in the example below), but that's the only circumstance I can think of.
I also don't particularly like paisley ties. But if I were forced to wear the one in Gerry's pic, I would probably try it with something like this (but with a different square):
- Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800
- › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2017- News, Pictures, Clothing,... 19 seconds ago
- › FS: Paul Stuart (Stuart's Choice) creme suede half brogues (US 8.5D) 1 minute ago
- › Yohji, Or How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love The Looser Fit... 2 minutes ago
- › FS: Paul Stuart (Stuart's Choice) calf and linen spectator shoes... 5 minutes ago
- › The What Are You Wearing Today (WAYWT) Discussion Thread, Part II 9 minutes ago
- › Ask a Question, Get an Answer - ask all quick questions here 10 minutes ago
- › Formula 1 - F1 - Current Season Discussion 10 minutes ago
- › 100% Cashmere Gieves and Hawkes sport coat 40L 10 minutes ago
- › Brooks Brothers Peal & Co. spectator shoes - US 8D 14 minutes ago
- › Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice 14 minutes ago
- › Men’s The Original 3” Boxerjock® Boxer Briefs... by Alper
- › Alden Brown analine (CXL) Plain toe blucher by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Men's Overlord Oxford, Brown, 8 D US by Lobster33
- › Alden #907 Straight Tip Bal Calfskin by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Leeds 2.0 Derby Men's Shoes Size US 10 D Walnut... by Lobster33
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway
- › Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for...