I just got my suit from WW Chan. Aside from a few changes I want made to my paper pattern -- circumfrence of sleeves (my biceps aren't THAT big), and potentially width of shoulders (they might be 1/8" too wide) -- it's pretty darn good. The front of the jacket is something to brag about for Chan -- really good lapels. It isn't an Oxxford or a Borrelli, but it's really pretty damn good. The VBC Super 130s fabric drapes really well and IMO is pretty close to on par with my Super 120s Tasmanian by Loro Piana. Still, I think Oxxford's Super 110s are more graceful. But that's besides the point. Why I'm posting is because though I like the shape of the Chan cut -- great fit around the hips and lower back, which makes the double vent drape perfectly, which I always find problematic in OTR -- I'd like to change the shoulder a bit. They didn't use a lot of padding, but still used slightly more than what I want. The shoulder is American/British (sort of a hybrid between the two), when what I really desire is a Neopolitan shoulder. I just love the shoulder on Borrelli suits (I've never seen a Kiton, but I imagine that it is the same shoulder as Borrelli). I'm just not sure how to explain it in words to Chan. Would you say that it has basically no padding from the collar to the mid-shoulder, and then has some very light padding at the end of the shoulder and then some roping at the sleeve cap? Is this how to best explain it? BTW, if I end up wanting to get the sleeves on this first suit reduced in circumfrence, is this an easily made alteration?
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8/20/04 at 4:34am