^I'll sound curmudgeonly, I guess, but it seems to me that fragrances are quickly becoming the new "designer jeans" fad. Given work and changing tastes, I've not been buying or sampling new stuff in the past 3-5 years as much I used to, and it seems that in that time the number of $200+ bottles has just exploded to the point where nobody is really shocked by it anymore.
Reminds me of 1995 or so, when $150 for Helmut Lang jeans or Diesel's for $125 was considered insane. $150 these days is considered "cheap," and even outside the "main" designers (Gucci/Prada/etc.) are all those premium denim brands that come and go.
Historically, Creed for $150 or so was about as expensive as you'd get until fairly recently, and the ne plus ultra of scent would be a guerlain pure parfum for $300-ish. There were still expensive lines, but they were quite superb and rare... MPG, Malle, etc.
You can't even spit now without hitting a $200 50ml jobby and new ones pop up every fifteen minutes. Not saying that they aren't good, but at some point (like those $500 jean brands that you've never heard of), i think a lot of these brands and fragrances will disappear in market "olfactory fatigue."
At a certain stage, just throwing every expensive ingredient in high concentrations wont' make a beautiful scent. Pound for pound, I find it hard to believe that all of these other ones are going, at the end of the day, to be better than some of the Malle creations, the classic Guerlains, some caron founts, etc.
Curmudgeon steps off his soapbox. Although, I guess a part of me is probably just jealous of Killian... rich cognac heir who has nothing better to do than comission perfumes? Sure, I want his life.
mitsukou parfum for me today.
edit: by the above, I don't mean people shouldn't try these new scents, and enjoy their "exclusivity;" however, I think you should always keep a healthy focus on the absolute classics when trying new things, to see what was done and how it was handled. It's really a treat after trying a bunch of "rose absolu, oud wood, patchouli, and santal de mysore mixed with Unicorn semen" to try a simple, balanced, amazing creation like a Tabac Blond, a Vega, a Cuir de russie, a parfum de therese, a Diorissimo, a vintage Givenchy III.
Although, I must admit, Ropion's recent "Portrait of a Lady" for malle is perhaps the most amazing oriental I've tried in years and years.