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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread - Page 1688

post #25306 of 25724
Today I'm wearing Vetiver Tonka by Hermes.
post #25307 of 25724
Working my way through various collection scents. Today it was Kingdom by McQueen. Some truly amazing clothing designs and quite a scent. It's sort of MFK Absolute Pour Le Soir / Lutens MKK's dirty smokey spicey musk and body odor with a classic waxy floral top block. Like a dirty french lady. Wonderful and rather daring, especially many years ago. That being said it's not something I think I'll wear much but it's certainly a scent worth smelling and the bottle is pretty cool. I'm going to list it up online on eBay soon but if one of you guys wants it lemme know. It's a 50ml with about 10ml left so not looking for a whole lot for it.

Pic: (Click to show)
post #25308 of 25724
my Sultan Pasha samples turned up in the mail today, 5 weeks after being marked shipped, uk to usa. the period between buying and them being marked shipped had taken a while too, but he gave me a number of prototypes beyond my 16 samples to make up for it!
post #25309 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

Working my way through various collection scents. Today it was Kingdom by McQueen. Some truly amazing clothing designs and quite a scent. It's sort of MFK Absolute Pour Le Soir / Lutens MKK's dirty smokey spicey musk and body odor with a classic waxy floral top block. Like a dirty french lady. Wonderful and rather daring, especially many years ago. That being said it's not something I think I'll wear much but it's certainly a scent worth smelling and the bottle is pretty cool. I'm going to list it up online on eBay soon but if one of you guys wants it lemme know. It's a 50ml with about 10ml left so not looking for a whole lot for it.

Pic: (Click to show)

Like a homeless french lady that pooped her pants, imho. smile.gif

An acquired taste I suppose. I like a lot of dirty scents but this one was way too dense for me.
post #25310 of 25724
yeah probably more accurate. I've smelled worse. I mean it's wonderfully dirty but I've only worn it around the house. That being said maybe someone else will enjoy this, plus it's sort of a collectors item at this point too
post #25311 of 25724
Yeah, I know a lot of people love this one. It's worth smelling for sure.
post #25312 of 25724
Tonight I am wearing Bandit EdT, a timeless bitter, dry, leather chypre. And by timeless, I really mean that it doesn't smell dated at all with the absence of aldehydes.
post #25313 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron View Post

Yeah, I know a lot of people love this one. It's worth smelling for sure.

Kingdom was too much for me as well. They even made a body lotion for it, believe it or not, which I also had.
I think every scent is worth not only smelling, but wearing at least twice. Some of these you might have to wear at home without going outdoors, though. haha

SOTD: I think I'll do Eau Sauvage today.

post #25314 of 25724
Today I'm wearing Onda Extrait. Today it reminds me of rich, healthy, loamy earth.
post #25315 of 25724
Today I tested out a newly acquired bottle of Bottega Veneta EdP, the original version and for women. I find it's a soft buttery suede/leather scent. I've tested this many times before and rather enjoy it. It's simple, but wears nicely and is enjoyable to smell. It edges over into 'female' territory but I think it's very wearable on a guy. Nothing much exciting about it but I just like the way it smells and will keep the bottle. I also think it's one of the nicest packages I've seen (that's what she said!). It's clean, simple, and elegant. I find it very impressive.

post #25316 of 25724
Tabac Grande by Sultan Pasha. Turin said it reminded him of North Carolina, and I agree, but not how he'd expect--when I smell the top notes of Tabac Grande, I think hanging out with my dad's Sufi friends in Chapel Hill in the 90s. I haven't smelled anything quite like this since I was about 13, so the sudden, unexpected memories are sort of a trip. They all smelled like this. Anyway, trying to get beyond that, I do recognize the still-curing tobacco leaf note, and I love that, so this is pretty cool. But the flashbacks are hard to get past. Just my experience.
post #25317 of 25724

Carven Vetiver original formulation, extrait strength today. 

 

It's been months since I last wore this and my nose is more sensitive than it was, and I have tried more vetivers.

 

Instead of just a strong vetiver, I now pick up a lot of notes that are present in more boozy masculines like Roja Dove Enigma and maybe with a hint of fougere as well a la Yohji Homme. This is in stark contrast to the powerful vetiver that is indeed at the heart of this composition. It does feel less like vetiver, though, and more like vetiver applied on top of a cheap supermarket deodorant with a harsh fougere and an old school feminine perfume side which emasculates and dates it a bit. And honestly, these components are too much for me despite the vetiver. It could be that these leaked from another vial (like the Roja Dove, which would be one expensive leak).

 

I do not get any oakmoss, myrrh, carnation or orris, which makes me wonder if TPC didn't ship me the recent IFRA-approved reformulation instead. 

post #25318 of 25724

Went oil sniffing around Bugis this afternoon, looking for aged vetiver. No luck! There was a bottle of vetiver oil that had spent some time on the shelf, and indeed it was a bit more tarry and fruity, but nothing like my beloved Givenchy.

 

However, one of the shops had some AAA grade Cambodian oud ($75/3ml). It smells strikingly similar to Sultan's Al Hareem, so I'm guessing he's using something like that in it. Amazing blue cheese smell. I tried the cheaper grades (AA, other origins, etc.) and it just wasn't the same - more like spicy woody, no blue cheese madness, a totally different smell. I'm not ready to pony up the $75 though. Still got plenty of Al Hareem and I can't wear this near anybody.

 

So, to reiterate... any sources of CO2 distillate of vetiver, or aged vetiver oil of any kind...?

post #25319 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

Carven Vetiver original formulation, extrait strength today. 

It's been months since I last wore this and my nose is more sensitive than it was, and I have tried more vetivers.

Instead of just a strong vetiver, I now pick up a lot of notes that are present in more boozy masculines like Roja Dove Enigma and maybe with a hint of fougere as well a la Yohji Homme. This is in stark contrast to the powerful vetiver that is indeed at the heart of this composition. It does feel less like vetiver, though, and more like vetiver applied on top of a cheap supermarket deodorant with a harsh fougere and an old school feminine perfume side which emasculates and dates it a bit. And honestly, these components are too much for me despite the vetiver. It could be that these leaked from another vial (like the Roja Dove, which would be one expensive leak).

I do not get any oakmoss, myrrh, carnation or orris, which makes me wonder if TPC didn't ship me the recent IFRA-approved reformulation instead. 
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

Went oil sniffing around Bugis this afternoon, looking for aged vetiver. No luck! There was a bottle of vetiver oil that had spent some time on the shelf, and indeed it was a bit more tarry and fruity, but nothing like my beloved Givenchy.

However, one of the shops had some AAA grade Cambodian oud ($75/3ml). It smells strikingly similar to Sultan's Al Hareem, so I'm guessing he's using something like that in it. Amazing blue cheese smell. I tried the cheaper grades (AA, other origins, etc.) and it just wasn't the same - more like spicy woody, no blue cheese madness, a totally different smell. I'm not ready to pony up the $75 though. Still got plenty of Al Hareem and I can't wear this near anybody.

So, to reiterate... any sources of CO2 distillate of vetiver, or aged vetiver oil of any kind...?

Interesting! Keep us updated on the search. The discussion of aged vetiver reminds me also of the discussions of how old Chanel no. 19 used to use (now unsoursable) Galbanum. In other words, it's fascinating how a scent can use technically the same "note," but what makes it go from interesting to superb is in all these tiny little uncontrollable details. Almost like wine.
post #25320 of 25724

Well, I really like food, and I do a fair amount of cooking (although how good it is is debatable), and I think it's a nice parallel to explore because: nobody who cares about what they are cooking would really experiment with "synthetic" ingredients, except for a small subset of the molecular gastronomy lot, and even then with very well defined ingredients that have stood the test of time (like elBulli's liquid olive, which is pulped olive dropped into a sodium alginate bath... or just MSG). Anybody who has tasted the real thing will tell you that truffle smells nothing like "truffle olive oil" or "truffle fries". 

 

Even sourcing the same ingredient yields extreme variations in taste: compare your 45 day dry aged ribeye from Hereford cattle sourced by The Ginger Pig in London (I'm sorry but I've rarely had good meat in the US - USDA corn-fed beef tastes of corn and slightly off! they 'grow' all wrong...) to your average tasteless bright red supermarket cut. Or an excellent Madiran to pair with lievre a la Royale to the $3 bottle of "table red" in the bargain bin at the supermarket, since you're mentioning wine (and yes, total beginners CAN taste the difference, in MY blind tests. The studies must have used crap expensive wine, I guess...).

 

Now this is obvious to most gourmets. But somehow the fragrance community is OK with reformulations using things that are but a pale shadow of their former self. It was blindingly obvious doing a side by side smelling of Arpege by Lanvin. Whether it is replacing oakmoss, ambergris and oud with whatever latest chemical is $0.1/kg but sort of approximates it, or whether it is sourcing cheaper oud and java vetiver instead of Haitian because your economics no longer work with the new market price, both the addition of thousands of unknown synthetics and the downgrade of ingredients by luxury groups (who to be fair have to deal with how to scale to millions of bottles), I've simply not found a single mainstream fragrance I can enjoy today. 

 

And really it was smelling the different grades of oud (and the cheaper Java vetiver, which is more pungent but not in a good, balanced, sweet way) that the ingredients side clicked for me.

 

Anyway, this is an old and common rant. Not adding much to the discussion...

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