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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread - Page 1669

post #25021 of 25673

Long walk thoughts: I think I figured out my "dislike" of some scents as "synthetic".

 

Best analogy is cooking. An experienced chef or gourmet can tell roughly how much umami to expect from what combination of ingredients. A skilled chef can add just a touch of MSG to enhance this. In practice most home cooks already do so with stock cubes, and I read somewhere MPW quoted as saying most professional kitchens, including upscale, will use them liberally.

 

If it's just a touch, it will go under the radar as it's basically the same stuff that's naturally present in tomatoes, parmesan, etc. Add too much, and the umami is "off" compared to expectations, this is particularly obvious in some cheaper Chinese restaurants who use the stuff as liberally as salt. You can get used to it, but at the back of your mind an alarm bell is going off, as taste being different from expectations can be a sign that the food has turned for example, and this I think is what people feel when they are "allergic" to MSG. 

 

Similarly, I expect a certain amount of projection from certain ingredients, and the complexity of natural ingredients (like rose essential oil with its hundreds of components) is part of a successful illusion of them being there. So, whilst a skilled perfumer can in theory replicate that illusion with just a few of these components balanced perfectly (this is, philosophically, Ellena's specialty; and I think Francis Kurkdjian is also very good at it), first, if they get it wrong the perfume will smell "off" or in the way that we associate with cleaning products (whose scents are simple for budgetary and stability reasons) and second, if they include components that are utterly new to the nose (such as Iso E Super) the alarm bells at the back of the mind start ringing. 

 

I don't know if I want to get used to the styles that liberally use the likes of Iso E Super. It allows for exploring more perfumes than those limited by sticking to the natural components illusion code, just as Schoenberg and the Second Viennese School began a movement to move away from common practice harmony whilst deliberately ignoring the unpleasantness (subjective - to people used to Brahms - and objective - the closer to randomness, the more "noisy") of the results. However, you can ignore a Boulez concert by just not attending it, but the people around you cannot ignore your scent, and if they find it unpleasantly harsh or "off" they will be similarly put off as the scent beginner who has not learnt to appreciate synthetics yet.

 

So an analogy in classical music might be that your pre-1960s perfumes are the Brahms, Bach or - in the case of Jicky - Mozart dissonant string quartets of fragrance, whilst more recent approaches range from Debussy (Kurkdjian), Arvo Part (Ellena), and Bartok (Duchaufour), which are still at least somewhat related to CPH and rooted in the past, to Tristan Grisey (Molecule 01) or Brian Ferneyhough (Secretions Magnifiques).

post #25022 of 25673
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post

This evening I am wearing La Via del Profumo Mecca Balsam.
How was it? It sounds like a very "typed", Middle-Eastern scent.

Don't know what you mean by "typed". I really like all of the fragrances I own from this house, which total six or more. Mecca Balsam is a softer fragrance compared to others and is a very good at-home evening scent because I feel like it has a good percentage of sandalwood in it.
post #25023 of 25673
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post


Don't know what you mean by "typed". I really like all of the fragrances I own from this house, which total six or more. Mecca Balsam is a softer fragrance compared to others and is a very good at-home evening scent because I feel like it has a good percentage of sandalwood in it.

I think it's more of a French expression. Means stereotypical, strongly representative. I see a lot of incense, etc. as used in Middle-Eastern perfumery. Most of the Amouage line is immediately Middle-Eastern to me, especially something like Epic Man. This is not true of the two Dubranas I have, Milano Caffe (vetiver coffee chocolate) and Tabac (dry tobacco) which are very individual scents with no suggested location.

 

If you have some time, mind dropping a paragraph or two about your favorites? I've been meaning to buy a bunch of samples from profumo.it but keep steering straight for choice paralysis. I need to pick 5-6 from the main line, but was also looking at a few of the "private collection" like the Oud Caravans, Samurai, Sensemilla, and Cologne de l'Empereur (I've been wanting a clean Damascene rose + hesperides scent for a while).

post #25024 of 25673
Stopped by Odin NY today and tested out several scents. Liked #7 the best. Reminds me of GPH 1.
post #25025 of 25673
I am wearing TF Oud Fleur today. Some of you might think I'm lying but I am not.
post #25026 of 25673
Today and this evening I'm wearing Sycomore.
post #25027 of 25673

Chaps, help me out with my AbdesSalaam choice paralysis...

 

I'll be getting some Palermo, Chillum, Grezzo and Cologne de l'Empereur for sure. Thinking about Maya, Persona, Frutti Paradisi as maybes. Rose Heart, Oakmoss, Samurai, Cuba Express, Arabia as distant maybes. 

 

Palermo, Maya and Cuba Express share the same chocolate-vanilla heart, with Palermo and CE sharing tobacco as well (add coffee and you get Milano Caffe which I have and love). FP is supposed to be osmanthus, but apparently feels more like fruit salad. I'm put off Persona because of the frankincense (I have too much incense already) and Samurai because of the patchouli (it's apparently toned down Oakmoss with patchouli added).

 

Any thoughts, ideas, recommendations, avoids?

post #25028 of 25673
Pre-shower: Frederic Malle Monsieur. It's a big, old-school patchouli. I'm not a big fan, mainly because I'm not a fan of that kind of scent generally. I feel the same about TF Patchouli Absolu.
SOTD: Frederic Malle Dries van Noten. Wonderful warm, soft, woody scent. I just now saw that someone compared this on Fragrantica to Le Feu d'Issey, and one person agreed. Yet another piece of evidence that the "Reminds Me Of" section of Fragrantica is populated by trolls.
post #25029 of 25673
Le Labo is putting their city scents online next month. Samples are available now and I'm thinking of trying some out. Anyone have experience with them? Any recommendations?

FWIW, I like Bergamonte, Patchouli, and Santal. A little ambivalent about Rose and Iris. Don't like The Noir.

City list:
  • Gaiac 10 (Tokyo)
  • Vanille 44 (Paris)
  • Tubereuse 40 (New York)
  • Poivre 23 (London)
  • Musc 25 (Los Angeles)
  • Limette 37 (San Francisco)
  • Baie Rose 26 (Chicago)
  • Cuir 28 (Dubai)
  • Benjoin 19 (Moscow)
post #25030 of 25673
SOTD is Frederic Malle Outrageous! A Barney's exclusive. Smells like citrus, fruit, and tinny white musks and cold steel. It's ok but feels more like a starting point for a scent than a complete design, and not that namesakes have to be accurate but it's pretty far from outrageous.
post #25031 of 25673
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Le Labo is putting their city scents online next month. Samples are available now and I'm thinking of trying some out. Anyone have experience with them? Any recommendations?

FWIW, I like Bergamonte, Patchouli, and Santal. A little ambivalent about Rose and Iris. Don't like The Noir.

I'd suggest that if you're not nuts about Rose 31, then you probably will not enjoy Baie Rose 26. And if you like Patchouli 24, then Cuir 28 is worth a try.
post #25032 of 25673
Pre-shower: Orchid Soleil
SOTD: Rubj voile d'extrait. As I've mentioned before, I enjoy the edp more. I haven't tried the parfum extrait.
post #25033 of 25673
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Le Labo is putting their city scents online next month. Samples are available now and I'm thinking of trying some out. Anyone have experience with them? Any recommendations?

FWIW, I like Bergamonte, Patchouli, and Santal. A little ambivalent about Rose and Iris. Don't like The Noir.

I'd suggest that if you're not nuts about Rose 31, then you probably will not enjoy Baie Rose 26. And if you like Patchouli 24, then Cuir 28 is worth a try.

Yeah, I'm a fan of Cuir 28.
post #25034 of 25673

SP Al Hareem. Hello roquefort. 

 

Edit: for the first time with AH, I can smell the sandalwood, adding a very strange soapy, clean note to the otherwise extremely animalic oud-musk blast. I read somewhere (I think in Chandler Burr's book on Ellena's Nile perfume) that Americans are used to smelling musk in virtually all cleaning products, soaps, laundry powder, etc. which is not the case in Europe; so, I now realise my perception of this fragrance as incredibly familiar, dirty and casual must be totally different from an American who would perceive the sandalwood-musk pairing as the epitome of cleanliness. 


Edited by crdb - 8/1/16 at 6:50pm
post #25035 of 25673
I remember him saying that in the book that musk was one of the first synthetics and got dumped into most detergents etc. It can be a 'dirty' smell but it's also sort of creamy and fatty and rich. Not really 'clean' but it gets that association. Then again when people say they don't like 'musky' scents, they're often referring to something like leather, incense, spices, etc.
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