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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread - Page 1654

post #24796 of 25722
My SOTD is Sa Majesté La Rose. It's not among my very favorite roses, mainly because of the sharpness at the top. I tend to prefer my roses more velvety. But still, it's a very nice scent. (There's also a clove note that's fairly prominent. In general, I'm not a big fan of that note.)
post #24797 of 25722

Yes, I'm also a fan of Turin, and his book was my starting point for discovering fragrances. I also like some Basenotes reviewers, in particular Colin Maillard, who thinks APH is "perfect" and gives him an extremely rare 10/10: http://yeoldecivetcat.blogspot.sg/2015/02/azzaro-pour-homme-1978.html

 

It honestly feels like I'm missing out on something here, and maybe as you say I'll pick it up in time. 

 

Regarding ambergris in APH, it's likely mostly ambroxan with a microscopic amount of real ambergris for marketing purposes, as per this thread: http://www.basenotes.net/threads/231375-There-s-still-ambergris-in-Azzaro-pour-Homme-Really. Most interestingly, they also suggest that the original APH was also ambroxan - the dates would fit.

 

One thing that comes back reading any great perfumer from Duchaufour or Ellena to Roudnitska is the idea that budget determines quality. A running theme is that the 1970s and 1980s were the rise of the marketing department, which reallocated what used to be ingredients budget to marketing, and left perfumers with budgets a tenth or hundredth of what they used to be (not to mention the rarity of ingredients making it difficult to scale production: good luck finding natural ambergris in the quantities required for global sales of APH). Once you take out the cut from Firmenich/Givaudan/etc. to the brand, the marketing budget, the overheads, the production costs, and so on, you're left with $1-2 for the juice of a $100 bottle.

 

From that point of view, pricing does determine quality or at least the availability of expensive ingredients like narcissus absolute or aged oud; Roja Dove takes it to ridiculous extremes but for example you can easily tell the difference between a Frederique Malle perfume and a modern, LVMH-owned Guerlain. The nice thing about niche houses is that they don't have the same marketing budget and that extra chunk of cash is occasionally perceivable as more complex and interesting ingredients. In my experience, anyway. 

post #24798 of 25722
On another note, are any of you aware Phlur, a new fragrance startup? I just saw it on my twitter feed. Apparently, it's started by a Ralph Lauren alum, and it's aiming to bring the Warby Parker model to scents. Sounds like a clever idea to me. Have no idea if the scents are any good.
post #24799 of 25722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron View Post

On another note, are any of you aware Phlur, a new fragrance startup? I just saw it on my twitter feed. Apparently, it's started by a Ralph Lauren alum, and it's aiming to bring the Warby Parker model to scents. Sounds like a clever idea to me. Have no idea if the scents are any good.

They may call themselves a startup, but when you look at what they actually do, they're identical to any niche house: they have 6 scents, and they sell them online in sample and FB volume. You can go to Masque Milano's site and see something identical: http://www.masquemilano.com/

 

What is unique is that they have gone to the mainstream press for their PR (http://paulgraham.com/submarine.html) instead of sticking to the fragrance world. They seem to be positioned to catch the unwary fragrance buyer with an inordinate amount of marketing fluff; the difference being that they SPECIFICALLY target the beginner. Quoting from the Business Insider press release, I mean, article:

 

http://www.businessinsider.sg/phlur-helps-you-buy-cologne-online-2016-6/?r=US&IR=T

 

Quote:

 “The sales associate is talking to me in this insider language, with [words like] ‘notes’ and ‘It has a cold floral heart.’ I don’t know what that means,” Korman told Business Insider, adding that a typical consumer wouldn’t either.

 

Instead of having you go to a department store and letting sales associates spray testers at you, talking about “notes,” confusing your senses, and having you walk away unhappy, Phlur offers a new ecommerce-based solution. 

Korman says selling fragrance online is “counterintuitive for obvious reasons,” but there is a way around it: letting the pictures and words on their sleek website do the talking, as a replacement for smelling.

“We need the ideas to come to life,” Korman said. “If you’ve been to fragrance websites, all it is is a picture of a bottle. That’s not how you sell fragrance online.”

[...]

What you won’t see: confusing signifiers like “eau de parfum” or “eau de toilette,” any talk about “notes,”

 

So, they're selling the fragrance without telling you the concentration or the notes. Just buy the bottle blind. Trust us! The sample is free if you buy the FB, otherwise, it's $10, but you understand, we have corporate social responsibility causes to finance...

post #24800 of 25722

Considering a blind FB buy of Panama 1924 Daytona by Boellis (no samples available anywhere). Anybody have experience of the brand, and the specific EDT?

post #24801 of 25722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron View Post

On another note, are any of you aware Phlur, a new fragrance startup? I just saw it on my twitter feed. Apparently, it's started by a Ralph Lauren alum, and it's aiming to bring the Warby Parker model to scents. Sounds like a clever idea to me. Have no idea if the scents are any good.

WSJ had a brief thing on them a week ago too:
http://www.wsj.com/articles/when-words-and-pictures-sell-a-fragrance-1466587803
Meh. Waiting on real reviews.
post #24802 of 25722
Can someone copy and paste that WSJ article?

Oh, and tonight I'm wearing Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur.
post #24803 of 25722
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post
Oh, and tonight I'm wearing Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur.

Yes!

 

Care to share some notes? 

post #24804 of 25722
So for every bottle you buy they'll donate one to some smelly kid somewhere? :-)
post #24805 of 25722
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

Quote:
Oh, and tonight I'm wearing Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur.
Yes!

Care to share some notes? 

Besides the leather and violet, I get a LOT of cumin, which isn't discussed much. It's s beautiful scent and one of my top-five leathers with there not being anything out there similar to it. There's nothing sweet about it, which I love, and is unisex in the same way Bandit is.
post #24806 of 25722
SOTE is Amouage Honour Woman. It's a big, creamy white floral, with tuberose and gardenia standing out the most to me. There's also lily of the valley, which is a note that I only enjoy if it's back a bit in the mix. Luckily, it is in this one. It's also a bit peppery at the top, but not too much.
post #24807 of 25722
Trying out my sample of Boy today. It's all bit meh for me, I'm afraid. There's a fleeting citrus at the start, but it shifts to a pretty average lavender quite quickly. I don't get a huge almond note from the heliotrope, although there is a faint nuttiness and vanilla, I guess. A bit of powdery musk at the end. Fragrantica reviewers suggest that this is close to Caron Pour Un Homme, which is about a quarter of the price. I have a sample of that too; I might do a side-by-side comparison. If they're close, I don't know why anybody would choose Boy.
post #24808 of 25722
Diptyque Tam Dao EDP today. After trying and liking the samples, I was given a FB for Father's Day. I'm really enjoying it.
post #24809 of 25722

SOTE MFK AUF. How can something with jasmine and rose absolutes smell so clean? 

post #24810 of 25722

I popped by the Code Deco store in Orchard Central on my way to dinner. It's a local niche house, with many things on offer. 

 

I didn't keep detailed notes but broadly:

- Tasman in Grey looks like a masculine but has a heart of beautiful jasmine sambac; floral lovers go go go!

- the White Oud was quite interesting. Can't tell enough from a brief sniff but if in doubt do try it.

- the masculines had one thing in common: very interesting, fresh, original top notes with an undercurrent of a strange stench which I couldn't quite place (the stench differs between fragrances - in one case, it reminded me a bit of nuoc nahm).

 

It's too much for me but I think some of the frequent participants in this thread (thinking about you @L'Incandescent) might be interested. I'd buy Tasman in Grey, if I needed another jasmine (I have too many already, and the tree under my window). I might be tempted to buy Kokomo as well. But it's hard to tell from top notes alone.

 

One thing that was really nice: no assistant! And the shop is completely empty. It was quite wonderful to be able to take my time sampling stuff without being pierced by the glare of a waiting assistant followed by a slight pang of guilt as you walk away having spent nothing. 

 

Anyway, worth a visit if you are in the area (tagging you @haTTer for your upcoming trip).

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