Yes I would say that the new Nuwa is definitely in the Oriental camp. There is still a faint cumin note but it is nowhere near the cumin-centric old version. I appreciated the old version too but many people did not like it and felt the cumin was overwhelming in a skanky sweaty way.
Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread - Page 1647
I walked past a shop in Sheung Wan this morning and was hit by a giant of a vetiver smell, like a wall of a pure, strong Carven Vetiver-like scent. Bent down to smell the red-brown root packs at the dried goods shop on my left (looked like vetiver roots on Google Images) but all I could smell is dried hay. Mystery.
SOTD - Silver Man by Amouage
SOTE - Leather oud by Christian Dior
I tried Le labo yesterday for the first time and wasent too impressed, the only thing that attracted my nose was the rose 31. Tried on the patchouli but it felt kind of weak, but interesting smell, like burnt incense, hinoki wood and leather.
SOTD Heeley Cuir Pleine Fleur.
Took me a while for it to click but today it did: this is basically an expensive version of what Imperial Leather soap tries to do. I do quite like it. A clean, pleasant, professional smell. I find it warmer than Basenotes reviews imply. It belongs in the school of perfumery that complements you rather than that which is worn as a statement.
Roja Diaghilev on the other arm.
And here's the funny thing: despite an initial impression that is completely different (clean high quality soap for Heeley, powdery old fashioned women's perfume for Roja which means I'll never be able to wear it out), at the heart they are surprisingly similar: human-scented (is that the soft leather?), pleasant, with the complexity of interesting ingredients. If pushed I'd say Heeley is obviously lighter, but also a touch sourer, as if its flowers had wilted a little bit compared to Roja's; flowers in a vase versus Roja's walk through a field in summer. In fact, that's Diaghilev for me: extremely realistic flowers. There's a thousand notes and it's very hard for me to tell them apart; but they are superbly blended into something that has its own identity.
I'd recommend getting a mini sample (1/4ML for me... Roja likes his pricing to be exclusive, and this time it's not marketing copy) but don't expect to be able to wear it unless you are usually very flamboyant in your style. This does not go with navy suit-white shirt-navy tie, except as an artistic statement.
edit: within 1 hour they start to diverge. Heeley remains leathery. Moss and honey come out in Roja, but in much milder proportions than moss-dominated fragrances like Aramis. Projection is much better for Roja, Heeley is already becoming a skin scent.
Edited by crdb - 6/19/16 at 8:36pm
Heeley is still a soft pleasant leather, if somewhat less floral.
Diaghilev has completely changed. I did a double take when checking as I thought I had applied one of Sultan's attars instead. It's a slightly more rubbery version of Jardins de Borneo Gardenia's heart notes. At least that's the closest thing I can think of.
Neither project beyond a couple cm off the skin. Maybe I didn't apply enough.
Question to the fragrance heads: just a floating idea for Pricentile, but we are thinking about testing all the shops we list by buying stuff from them. And reviewing the process, because there's no or little reliable information on the internet about it.
However, there's no way I have enough space for hundreds of bottles of perfume. Would some of you be interested in free stuff in exchange for taking a few photos and writing a few paragraphs? Is this a bad idea? Would that kind of information be useful to you as a shopper reviewing potential stores?
As for the scents:
- Knize is now a metallic cumin
- Heeley is still going strong as a floral leather. Still reminds me of orange blossom, which is listed nowhere on the notes.
- Diaghilev is now a dry, faint, spicy skin scent. Slightly disappointed; I think I'd be very disappointed if I had paid GBP 950 for a bottle.