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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread - Page 1624

post #24346 of 26041
I'm wearing Rozy today. It's my second favorite of the Vero scents that I've tried, behind Rubj of course. Just think, when this was released everyone was dancing to "Happy" by Pharrell Williams.
post #24347 of 26041
I'm not much of a vintage hunter.... I know there's some great stuff out there but I'd had to buy something that's off, and it's also a bit of an endless rabbit hole once you get into vintage. That being said, the stuff I own or have smelled even from the 80's and 90's is just so much better than what's being pumped out today. Now we've had some really amazing niche and the industry seems to be booming, so it's not all bad, but when you smell older Chanels, Guerlains, etc, even fairly 'common' house stuff like that, it seems that the quality of the juice from 20-30 years ago was just miles ahead.

Speaking of which, Thierry Wasser will be here at the Toronto Guerlain store briefly and I'll be attending the event. I look forward to meeting him and seeing who else shows up. Will have to try very hard to bite my tongue and say nice things or nothing at all.
post #24348 of 26041
Today I wore Comme des Garcons Odeur 71, which is about as avant garde as you can get while still smelling fantastic.

Tonight I put on a tester of Diptyque's Eau de Lavande, which is a very satisfying and somewhat edible (not gourmand) lavender fragrance.
post #24349 of 26041
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

 That being said, the stuff I own or have smelled even from the 80's and 90's is just so much better than what's being pumped out today. Now we've had some really amazing niche and the industry seems to be booming, so it's not all bad, but when you smell older Chanels, Guerlains, etc, even fairly 'common' house stuff like that, it seems that the quality of the juice from 20-30 years ago was just miles ahead.

What probably helps is that Guerlain was not LVMH back then, but literally "Guerlain" (Jean-Paul). I can't comment as I don't really buy mainstream stuff today and a mall sniff is nothing to compare to, but I suspect, if a lowering in quality there has been, that volume also has a lot to do with it considering the price and limited supply of many ingredients.

 

Scotch is having a crisis at the moment where the massive increase in demand in recent years has seen prices go through the roof and quality get steadily lower (I can't prove it, although Jim Murray also commented about it when he started awarding foreign whiskies much more). They're just running out of stuff that has been left in barrels for a decade or two, because a decade or two ago the market was not growing double digit percent per annum, and until supply catches up we see some Yamazaki single casks at $2,000+ (did you notice how all the Japanese "base" offerings have lost their age statement?) and the Lagavulin 16 yo "base" tastes nothing like it did even a decade ago. 

 

You have to take shortcuts to scale, and scaling is what LVMH is about, in fact their specialty is INCREASING the Veblen Good aspect of whatever they buy whilst increasing volume (see the Australian thread most recently complaining about R. M. Williams' massive price increase post acquisition). So I'd guess there have been steady reformulations to make production easier to scale, be it from removing expensive complex ingredients that give the perfume depth, or choosing formulas that "age" faster (perfumes spend a few weeks/months in steel vats so the ingredients can react with each other and stabilise) to lower inventory costs and speed up reaction to market demand.

 

On the upside, JP Guerlain is opening his own house to return to the principles of "money no object, I launch what I like and keep what people buy": https://www.luxurydaily.com/the-guerlain-familys-perfume-mastery-lives-on-in-my-exclusive-collection/ - coming to you in 2017.

 

Something I also wonder is whether some of these vintage formulas are not more interesting because of aging in the bottle, the ingredients further evolving with time and perhaps a bit of oxidation, and smell nothing today like they did fresh out of the box when they were sold.

post #24350 of 26041
Quote:
Originally Posted by California Dreamer View Post

Habit Rouge EDT. Vintage, from the late 90s. Another courtesy of M-C. Just think, when Guerlain bottled this, everyone was dancing to Macarena.

There's one of these just one MRT stop away for $30. I feel like I should pull the trigger - might go buy it tomorrow after a meeting in the area. Does anyone know how it compares to the original formulation and the modern bottlings?

post #24351 of 26041
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

There's one of these just one MRT stop away for $30. I feel like I should pull the trigger - might go buy it tomorrow after a meeting in the area. Does anyone know how it compares to the original formulation and the modern bottlings?

Thanks for the JPG info! I will keep an eye open. Funny coincidence, this morning I was wondering what aging does to your olfactory sensors. Do they deteriorate like hearing and sight?
In that regard, is an 80 year old up to sniff to create new masterpieces?

I'll be in SGP for a few days from Sunday on business. Will probably have very little time even in the evenings but still would be grateful to learn if there are any places where one could find vintage stuff with more or less credible heritage? Albeit much limited by custom allowances on the way back. Hmm...
post #24352 of 26041
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSense View Post


Thanks for the JPG info! I will keep an eye open. Funny coincidence, this morning I was wondering what aging does to your olfactory sensors. Do they deteriorate like hearing and sight?
In that regard, is an 80 year old up to sniff to create new masterpieces?

I'll be in SGP for a few days from Sunday on business. Will probably have very little time even in the evenings but still would be grateful to learn if there are any places where one could find vintage stuff with more or less credible heritage? Albeit much limited by custom allowances on the way back. Hmm...

I have only limited experience with the physical retail here, but you should join the Perfume Lovers of Singapore group on Facebook in case they do a meet (so you can do some splits), and at least check out Jasina near Clarke Quay (just across the bridge, in a mostly deserted mall) which is a treasure trove of discontinued stuff (like Bvlgari Black or Encre Noire) and super cheap tester bottles, extremely popular with Australian air crews according to the owner. There's apparently another vintage shop in that mall but I never found it.

 

Mustafa has a few things, but nowhere near the same selection and in a dubious state of keeping, and it's not worth the stress of enduring the Mustafa experience. Unless you see it for tourism (doing Mustafa at 2-4am on a week night is almost a rite of passage).

 

In terms of niche there are two or three places worth a look. Escentials is the big player here (part of Luxasia group) and I had an epic trial session that lasted what must have been an hour or two with a sales guy called Zul, who really knows his stuff. They have two locations, one in Tangs which is crowded and has a slightly more limited range (IMO) although it has the other Luxasia distributed stuff nearby (including Guerlain and Hermes as well as Lutens); and one in Paragon just a block away which is usually empty and has the full line to try from Annick Goutal, MFK, Amouage, Diptyque, Byredo etc. Paragon is generally nice for classic menswear although the price tags will make you recoil - at least, I think that at $5,000-$15,000 for a RTW jacket I might as well fly to London and get a Row tailor to do it. 

 

Zul told me Frederique Malle and a few others are only distributed at a third mall, whose name I can't recall but which is behind the Abercrombie flagship on the same street as Paragon and literally opposite. I've not yet made the pilgrimage even though I live in the area. And naturally Cuir de Russie etc. are only to be found at Marina Bay Sands Chanel.

post #24353 of 26041
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeSense View Post


Thanks for the JPG info! I will keep an eye open. Funny coincidence, this morning I was wondering what aging does to your olfactory sensors. Do they deteriorate like hearing and sight?
In that regard, is an 80 year old up to sniff to create new masterpieces?

I'd have two thoughts on that: 

 

1. that senses don't always degrade; indeed some older folks have sharp hearing or sharp sight as they lose the other;

 

2. that knowledge and experience more than compensate for a loss of a sense, c.f. Beethoven whose most praised stuff (amongst musical circles) comes from his deaf end of life (e.g. late quartets). Did he compose better, more interesting stuff "liberated" from hearing what it sounded like? 

 

Either way in 2017 I'm trying JPG's whole line.

post #24354 of 26041
@crdb

Many thanks for the detailed information! We are well covered in Seoul on what's currently available (Exclusifs, Dipt, Byredo, AnnickG,...), many with their on shop/boot inside a mall. Given the limited time at hand, hoping there will be some, I shall try my luck at the treasure troves, you mentioned.

PS: As for OS, I know I could use some training there.

PPS: JPG, hoping there will be some not or not overly oriental in the line-up.
post #24355 of 26041
SOTE for a late night trip to the grocery store was Eau d'Hermès. This has been one of my very favorites since the first time I tried it, which I think was in 2008.
post #24356 of 26041
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post
 

Ha, so it finally arrived in 'Straya! Did you have any issues with customs? What was the total time between order and him acknowledging sending it; and between sending it and receiving it?

 

I've decided that on Roudnitska 2D model of skilful vs pleasant, SP's attars sit mostly high on "skilful" but rarely on "pleasant". They are complex beasts rooted in the past and maybe the richness of the ingredients is too much for my poorly trained and little experienced nose, much as I remember being overwhelmed by my first French haute cuisine lunch. As a result, I don't know how often I'll wear them at this point. Some are more wearable than others. 

 

It took about a month from ordering to delivery - about 3 weeks from him sending and me receiving.

 

Tried Cites des Ange yesterday and was pleasantly surprised. The opening is very similar to AA. Bright juicy florals that dominate for the first hour or so after which the dreaded durian kicks in. But this is less of the stinky, rotting funk that terrify people and more of the sweet, ice-creamy perfume that people love. There are occasional wafts of something 'off', but overall I found it more manageable than AA. It transitioned to a skin scent after a few hours and lingered for another 6 or so.

post #24357 of 26041
Today Malle's Bigarade Concentree - serious orange peel opening, like a freshly sliced fruit.
Hours later the orange has faded and there is a warm cedar base. Simple but pleasant scent.
post #24358 of 26041
I'm wearing Diptyque's Eau de Lavande again today. Very nice.
post #24359 of 26041

Woaaah, got a sniff card that was ziplock enclosed of The Night by Frederic Malle today, would be super fun to own of bottle of this as its overwhelmingly aggressive and naughty oud. Too bad its 600 usd for a small bottle. Anything similar to The Night but a bit less expensive?

 

Oh yeah, tried Unum - ennui noir - this was the best vanilla scent Ive ever smelled.

post #24360 of 26041
TF Amber Absolute.

Remember the scene in Major League when the guy hits the grand slam and while the ball is in the air the fan says "No way, too high, too high"? Every time I wear this I think "No way, too good, too good." That is, I think it's so good that I must be missing something. Maybe it is just too easy a scent and I'm a simpleton for liking it. In any event, I like it a lot and I have since the first time I smelled it at a trunk show in Cincinnati in 2009.
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