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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread - Page 1619

post #24271 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post

This evening I'm wearing La Via del Profumo's Oakmoss.


What do you think? I was underwhelmed - mainly because my expectations had been raised to lofty heights by Kafka's review

post #24272 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by AJ922015 View Post

Please direct me elsewhere if this is the wrong thread for such a post:

Currently have DG Light Blue and YSL Homme.. I would like to add another fragrance to the mix. Had something versatile in mind, but am open to any and all suggestions!

The amount of info in this thread is overwhelming, so direction is appreciated!

AJ

@AJ922015

Here are some recommendations. I've focused on scents that you should be able to buy at department stores. If you want to try more niche things, then let me know, but I didn't get the sense that you wanted to dive too deeply into that world. I've also focused on scents that are significantly different from the ones you already own. These are in no particular order.

1. Dior Homme. A beautiful, light iris and cocoa scent. This was a big hit among perfume connoisseurs when it first came out, and deservedly so.
2. Cartier Declaration d'un Soir. It's a spicy, woody rose. Should be readily available, but it's uncommon enough that you'd definitely stand out from the crowd.
3. Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb. Warm, sweet spice and tobacco. It's very pleasant, probably most appropriate for fall and winter. I smell this (or similar scents) on a lot of guys.
4. Chanel Egoiste. (NOT the Platinum Egoiste.) Very rich cinnamon and woods, mostly sandalwood. Despite its being a Chanel, I hardly ever smell this on anyone.
5. Chanel pour Monsieur. Classic, classic, classic masculine. It dates from the 1950s, but it's as timeless a masculine as you could hope for.
6. Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Very contemporary masculine. It's sweet and creamy with warm spices. Very easy to like.
7. Hermès Terre d'Hermès. A contemporary classic, unlike anything that had been made before it. It's earthy and mineraly, but with a lovely orange note too.
8. L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme. A very pleasant cocoa and patchouli scent. Again, very easy to like.
9. Tom Ford Velvet Orchid. This is if you're willing to go out on a limb just a little bit. Beautiful bright orchid with a bit of a boozy feel.
Edited by L'Incandescent - 5/8/16 at 9:41pm
post #24273 of 25724
SOTD was Rose Flash. It's a very dense, resiny rose. I like it, but I would like it more, I think, if it weren't so concentrated.
post #24274 of 25724
Bought Antaeus "blind" (was a long time since last, wonder how it will go...) in 50ml "limited edition"(?).
And scored a (as requested) Bois des Iles Exclusifs sample.

PS: Wearing Sycomore again.
PPS: I hate Chanel. I'll probably have to get a FB of BdI at some point.
Edited by DeSense - 5/9/16 at 5:15am
post #24275 of 25724

Aqua di Gio 

post #24276 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post

This evening I'm wearing La Via del Profumo's Oakmoss.


What do you think? I was underwhelmed - mainly because my expectations had been raised to lofty heights by Kafka's review

I like it, but I smelled it without reading any opinions on it prior. I like dry fragrances and the bitter herbaceous quality of Oakmoss is right up my alley.

Today I'm wearing Le Labo Iris 39.
post #24277 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post


@AJ922015

Here are some recommendations. I've focused on scents that you should be able to buy at department stores. If you want to try more niche things, then let me know, but I didn't get the sense that you wanted to dive too deeply into that world. I've also focused on scents that are significantly different from the ones you already own. These are in no particular order.

1. Dior Homme. A beautiful, light iris and cocoa scent. This was a big hit among perfume connoisseurs when it first came out, and deservedly so.
2. Cartier Declaration d'un Soir. It's a spicy, woody rose. Should be readily available, but it's uncommon enough that you'd definitely stand out from the crowd.
3. Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb. Warm, sweet spice and tobacco. It's very pleasant, probably most appropriate for fall and winter. I smell this (or similar scents) on a lot of guys.
4. Chanel Egoiste. (NOT the Platinum Egoiste.) Very rich cinnamon and woods, mostly sandalwood. Despite its being a Chanel, I hardly ever smell this on anyone.
5. Chanel pour Monsieur. Classic, classic, classic masculine. It dates from the 1950s, but it's as timeless a masculine as you could hope for.
6. Tom Ford Noir Extreme. Very contemporary masculine. It's sweet and creamy with warm spices. Very easy to like.
7. Hermès Terre d'Hermès. A contemporary classic, unlike anything that had been made before it. It's earthy and mineraly, but with a lovely orange note too.
8. L'Instant de Guerlain pour Homme. A very pleasant cocoa and patchouli scent. Again, very easy to like.
9. Tom Ford Velvet Orchid. This is if you're willing to go out on a limb just a little bit. Beautiful bright orchid with a bit of a boozy feel.

@L'Incandescent

 

Thank you so much! This is exactly what I was looking for. Much thanks to @crdb as well! 

post #24278 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

My standard order if I don't trust the bar is a negroni, which is virtually impossible to screw up (and conversely, doesn't really have a "great" version).

The beauty of the negroni lies in the nearly infinite variations one can create by switching out one, some, or all of the three ingredients. I like substituting silver tequila for gin; the vegetal nature of the tequila plays well with the bitter orange of Campari. Lately, I've been enjoying a variation I discovered at the Franklin in Philadelphia made with rhum agricole, Cocchi Rosa, Gran Classico, and tiki bitters. And I agree with Dale DeGroff that a negroni is best on the rocks rather than straight up.
post #24279 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by crdb View Post

My approach at the moment is of discovery original post (Click to show)
, so other than the vetiver extravaganza (which is more a function of getting certain very famous vintages) I would quite like to explore beyond my comfort zone. However, I'd like to avoid aquatic, salty notes. I just can't stand them in most fragrances. I also have too much pure citrus at the moment (like Eau de Guerlain) and a fair bit of rose (Lyric Man, Goutal's, etc.) and incense (Epic Man, etc.), so these are less high on my priority list.

Thanks to good experiences with vintage Habit Rouge, Carven Vetiver, Cabochard and a couple others, I think I'd like to further explore these kind of rounded, high personality works that came before the 1970s. But I'm not a fan of many of the feminines like Apres l'Ondee or Heure Bleue.

On the list right now:
Guerlain: Habit Rouge Dress Code, Vetiver original formula
L'Artisan: Timbuktu, Dzongkha
Hermes: Bel Ami (modern, alas; no samples for vintage), Equipage original formula, Osmanthe Yunnan (I love real osmanthus bushes, discovered in Japan one summer, they drove me crazy as I couldn't find the apricot tree responsible for such a wonderful smell!)
Givenchy: Gentleman original formula, Eau de Vetyver original formula
AbdesSalaam Attar: Milano Caffe, Venezia Giardini Segreti, Tabac, Hindu Kush (any other suggestions welcome)
Nicolai: Le Temps d'une Fete, Cuir Cuba Intense, New York
Roja Dove: Vetiver Extrait, Diaghilev (doubt I'll like it, but I want to know "vintage Mitsouko" and RD does not sell in SG)
Amouage: both Dias although rethinking about it. Not a fan of Ciel or Sunshine, and Dia sounds similar.
Other: Tauer ADM, Rubini Fundamental, Heeley Cuir PF, YSL M7, Ciampagna Liquo, Azzaro (top up), Bentley for Men Intense, Knize Ten original formula, Yohji Homme, Tom Ford Private Blend Oud Wood

Don't say I never do nothing... I know this was from ages ago but I made a mental note to properly respond to it since you took the time to write it all out… This is basically just a run down of some of the major niche houses and the stuff I also personally like or know is often recommended so might be a good starting point…

I think your approach makes sense to get a bit of everything in the beginning and feel out the field.

For a sense of the ‘old’ way of doing perfumes, I’d say look to the older catalogues from Hermes and Guerlain and some Caron, even some Chanels. MDCI and Roja Dov are good for that too even though they’re modern.

For Hermes - Things like Bel Ami and Equipage which you already have on your list. I know you have some citrus but I find concentree d’orange verte a great all rounder scent to wear. Heck even Terre D’Hermes is really solid. And from Hermessence, Vetiver Tonka is pleasant, as is Poivre Samarcade, but I think Ambre Narguile is the star of the show.
Guerlain – I really just don’t know their old stuff that well and there are a million. Jicky is a must try. Their older vintage Vetiver is one of my favorite scents. Of the newer scents I really like Songe D’un Bois D’ete. L’Instant extreme had a brief moment of love in the community.
Chanel – things like Antaeus is maybe worth smelling just because it’s so iconic of a certain era’s style. Pour Monsieur is excellent and worth smelling if not blind buying. From Exclusifs I’d say Bois des Iles, Sycomore (unless you’re really done with vetiver), Coromandel, and Cuir de Russie.
L’Artisan - Timbuktu, Dzongkha are both good, yes. I’d add in Tea for Two, Dzing!, and Fou d’Absinthe. I love Al Oudh but it’s a bit stinky. Their Couer De Vetiver Sacre is a little sweet and jammy and usually pretty cheap.
Caron – I just don’t know enough of their old stuff to make recommendations and most of their new stuff is junk. Even Pour an Homme, I’d say just skip it.

Amouage – many good ones. The usual suspects are Jubilation XXV, Memoir, Reflection, Interlude and Lyric. I didn’t like Dia, Ciel or Sunshine, so don’t think those are what the house has to offer.
Tauer – has quite a few nice ones. Try LdDM of course. Also Lonestar memories and his incense one. I’ve fallen out of touch with what the line is doing so I’m no help there.
Bond #9 – too many, there are a few winners like Chinatown, New Haarlem, Riverside Drive etc but not worth looking for really.
Montale – again, way too many to look at in the line and most of them only meh. Red Vetiver is good, I really like Full Incense and Café Intense and their big hit is Black Oud but again, not too much new here really.
Nasomatto – again, they were talked about a lot and then now suddenly nothing. They’re super potent but nothing really all that unusual.
Slumberhouse – I’ve only tried a few but these guys are definitely worth checking out. Hugely potent, definitely some interesting smells, worth trying for good modern niche.
Tom Ford – many to choose from and many excellent ones… Tuscan Leather, Tobacco Vanille, Tobacco Oud (very good!), Oud Wood (nice but boring), Italian Cypress, Amber Absolute, Neroli Portofino, Plum Japonaise, etc. Those are the standouts in my opinion. And Black Orchid may be worth a sniff too. Even Noir (original edp) smells a bit like Guerlain Habit Rouge so it’s worth a smell.
Heeley – A few winners for sure. I like Esprit du Tigre, many like Cuir Pleine Fleur, and also Cardinal is a soapy cold incense. Sel Marine is a nice clean salty scent but you said you didn’t like that.
Dior Privee – if you have access to it, fairly modern and clean. I like Leather Oud (really stinky), and Ambre Nuit. Bois D’Argent is also nice and even that new Feve Delices.

Aqua Di Parma – many old school classic smells here. The Essenza for example. I really like their Intensa Oud actually and it’s quite unique.
Creed – eh love em or hate em. I think based on where you’re at they’re approachable but you’ll probably get bored. I’d say try their Royal Oud and Spice and Wood and yes, Aventus, which really does deserve the hype.
Armani Privee – actually a few nice ones. Bois D’Encense is a nice woody incense and their Royal Oud is very pleasant. Those were the standouts to me.
Annick Goutal – too many to look at and more interesting stuff out there so skip for now.
By Kilian – ignoring ridiculous overpriced packaging, some very good scents here. The usual suspects are Back to Black, Straight to Heaven, and Taste of Heaven. I also like Smoke for the Soul and Incense Oud and Pure Oud.
Frederic Malle – Hmmm, hard to say really. A very accomplished line but I’d almost say come back to it when you know what you like and have more experience. It’s a line that’s hard to understand and the scents are very varied. Too many here to recommend because totally depends on what you like.
CdG – incense series and wood series, plus a few others. Very reasonably priced and some good work here!
Le Labo – a few… you said you have roses so Rose 31 may be a skip but it’s nice. I’d also say Santal 33, Neroli 36, and their Patchouli and Oud are pretty heavy hitters (though I find hard to wear).
Byredo –actually a few nice ones here. From Pulp to Baudelaire and Blanche.
Diptyque – quite a few nice ones. Personally I love Philosykos and L’Ombre Dans L’eau. Their Eau Duelle is nice too.
Serge Lutens – hmmm, many many but a few basic ones will give you a sense of his style. Ambre Sultan, Chergui, 5 O’Clock Au Gigembre, etc.
Mona Di Orio – not too easy to find and a little pricey. Well constructed but nothing unusual.

Randoms:
Parfum d’Empire – Ambre Russe
Divine L’Homme Sage
Masque Milano – Russian Tea and Tobacco one
Puredistance – M. If you’re smelling Bel Ami, smell this too.
Essentric Molecules - Molecule 01
YSL - Rive Gauche and M7
post #24280 of 25724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ambulance Chaser View Post


The beauty of the negroni lies in the nearly infinite variations one can create by switching out one, some, or all of the three ingredients. I like substituting silver tequila for gin; the vegetal nature of the tequila plays well with the bitter orange of Campari. Lately, I've been enjoying a variation I discovered at the Franklin in Philadelphia made with rhum agricole, Cocchi Rosa, Gran Classico, and tiki bitters. And I agree with Dale DeGroff that a negroni is best on the rocks rather than straight up.

Oh, I hear you and you can do this with virtually any cocktail. I understand rum old fashioned were all the rage a year ago. Just my opinion: rhum agricole is so different from gin that I don't think it counts as a negroni; its vegetal nature as you call it is a property of the core ingredient itself (vesou, i.e. crushed cane) rather than a flavoring to what is basically herbal vodka, and as such is both more subtle and more complex, more integrated versus the gin's herbal additivity.

 

It's just that the strong bitterness, sweetness and the rocks (as you mention) of what can properly be called a "negroni" simply are too much for a fine balancing act like getting the aniseed presence just right in a sazerac, which has caused me intense happiness in the past, in a Jiro Dreams of Sushi moment because it was so close to perfection. Negroni is something you sip whilst playing pool or waiting for the next dish sitting outside with friends on a warm Italian summer night, you're not supposed to count what you put in there, you just sling it in and serve...

post #24281 of 25724
Santal Blush for me today. This is probably my favorite sandalwood scent, as long as you don't count Bois des Iles. (For some reason, I don't think of BdI is primarily an sandalwood scent, although there's obviously good reason to think of it that way.)
post #24282 of 25724
Tonight I'm wearing Oud Palao by Diptyque. This is an excellent issue by this house into the oud genre.
post #24283 of 25724
SOTE is A*Men Pure Malt. This dominated talk in the online fragrance world around five or six years ago. It's a dark, sweet, peaty, boozy scent. It's very pleasant, although it's not quite my style. That's why I don't wear it a whole lot.
post #24284 of 25724
Today I'm wearing Opus 1870, by Penhaligon's. Some of the scents from this house are pretty fleeting on me, such as Juniper Sling, but this one sticks around as a pleasant peppery scent.
post #24285 of 25724

Aaaand... back to Habit Rouge after a week of Sultan's art. Like seeing an old school friend after many years. Damn I love that stuff. 

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