I finally got the chance to try Tango by Aftelier. The reviews of this online are absolutely effusive. In fact, they very much resemble the reviews that Genevieve writes about catnip on various cat-centered websites. I am obviously missing something. At the top, I wouldn't even recognize the smell as being a perfume if I hadn't just sprayed it on. It smells more like some kind of ointment. It does become much more pleasant as it dries down, and there really is a lot going on. There's a definite smoky note that isn't the typical smokiness of wood or incense. According to the notes, it's some kind of crushed sea shells. There are also notes that I experience as strongly herbal. (I think those are the ones that make it smell like an ointment to me.) And as it dries down further still, it becomes considerably more floral and sweet. I like that part better, but I don't feel anything like the elation that the online reviewers describe. I bought two samples of it, so I'll have a chance to try it some more.
FWIW, I enjoy Aftelier Wild Roses much more. It's a very, very earthy rose and patchouli scent that's fairly similar to MPG George Sand.
SOTD: Leather Oud.