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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread - Page 724

post #10846 of 20225
Montale Aoud Damascus. Yet another oud/rose accord, but it does stand out from the others. As the name suggests, the rose is a rich, velvety damascus rose. For an oud scent, it's quite subdued.
post #10847 of 20225
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas View Post

There are a couple of explanations: first, in his blog (when he had one), Turin put forth his preference for the larger houses, claiming in short that the niche houses were - excepting Lutens, Nicolai and Malle - poseurs. In most of the nicheys he found a faux-naif aesthetic with a hideous markup, and noted that it was a lot to pay for 'first drafts'. "At least, with a big house, the brief has been fought over by every competent perfumer in the world." (paraphrased) Sometimes I think he's out to knock a niche perfumer off his or her pedestal, should he or she make the attempt - God help you if you call yourself a "Master Perfumer", because you immediately get compared to Jacques Guerlain and told, in effect, to sit down and compose a few Shalimars before you try wearing that title again. So, anything niche is automatically viewed through a skeptic's lens.
Second, Turin has been an unapologetic devotee of French perfumery as practiced by Chanel, Caron, and Guerlain, and has been unstintingly critical of Guerlain's post-LVMH output, even calling out J-P Guerlain for messing with Laurent's Shalimar Legere. In fact, most reformulations are harshly punished as in the case of Tabac Blond (originally he recommended this as one of the best leathers out there) which was more of a re-write than a tweaking. But in that he's not really consistent because everything gets reformulated at some point. How badly a scent goes off the rails seems to be a mitigating factor, though. But, back to the original point: if it's not of the French school - you have a very steep hill to climb.
Finally, and this I didn't quite get until recently: sometimes he writes from memory, and other times they test - on paper. Their position is that scents can smell good on paper but go badly south on skin, but the inverse is never true. The latter, as I'm told by people I trust, is precisely the case with the MdO line - they smell awful on paper but open up on skin. I sniffed a few Orio's a while back and thought they would be right up LT's alley, but if he only tested on paper then it was highly likely that he threw the smelling strip across the room, looked up the price of her bottles, and her claim to apprenticeship and other marketing prose, and immediately marked her entire line down to 1 star, tout court. Although, even now, I giggle at his "Loud civet fart" when describing Nuit Noire (iirc). So, you have to smell good on paper, AND on skin, to get good marks.

Great post, T.

Still have wafts of White Musk (montale) on my skin from last night, so I'll probably wear it again today for morning meetings and then class. I've had a number of "white" musks in my day, and this one is perhaps the most "friendly." It's not as fleeting as some, and the violet/geranium gives it a nice spicy depth. Others (Keiko Mecheri Musc) sometimes become almost arid, but this one is nice, especially for spring.

It's definitely no Helmut Lang EdP (or EdC), one of the greatest soft musk scents ever, but it's decent. It's sort of Kiehl's Musk after a treatment at the Day Spa. lol8[1].gif
post #10848 of 20225
post #10849 of 20225

A great one, by my "other" favorite nose, Maurice Roucel. I've said this often before, but I came to love Roucel by accident; there were four or five scents I always loved and then after finding Basenotes realized, damn, they're all by the same guy. Riverside Drive, the Helmut Lang EdC and EdP, Malle MR, just to name a few. The guy does a rich, almost edible depth to his scents that is wonderful. It never becomes too "foody," but stays quite personal.

He's quite different from Roudnitska, of course, but it is neat to have them both in a collection. Whereas Roudnitska went more for the minimal, classical, almost conceptual kind of scent... Roucel tends to be more earthy, private, even a little primal. I don't know if that makes sense, but just to say I think they complement each other well without competing.
post #10850 of 20225
Roucel also does Le Labo Labdanum 18, which is very much in keeping with his signature style.
post #10851 of 20225
Caron Poivre extrait. Lots of clove, and some carnation. It's reminiscent of Derby, but quieter, less mossy, less leathery. It's an strong scent that stays close to the skin, so it's pleasant to wear but it's doesn't intrude on the rest of the room. One of the most masculine of the classic french perfumes.
post #10852 of 20225
speaking of Le Labo, I went past their soho boutique as well as a number of counters (Barneys, maybe some others)... call my crazy but I just love Neroli 36. There's something else in there that just reminds me of summers on the lake at the cottage, and on paper this literally scents my room for up to a week (there's got to be some helluva strong synthetics at work here). I'm also really liking the Lab 18, not sure if it's too 'fem' or 'soft' for me, but I think it's still ok. And then there are the rest which I mostly find either too boring/weak like Jasmin, Fleur, Bergamot, etc or just way too raw and sharp to be wearable like Patch, Vetiver and Oud.

Still on the fence about Santal... It really does smell like it started as a room smell first because it's a little too sharp and dry IMO for personal use and it's not exactly cheap stuff, but I suspect I'll end up with some juice if not a bottle by the time I'm done this whole thing...


NYC trip report:
did some SERIOUS sniffing around, or at least what I could considering I had a cold / sinus infection... Covered everything from Madison - Malle, Ford, Diptyque, Bond, Hermes, and more. Then down in SoHo, Aedus (once again very rude service, everytime I leave the shop I swear never to return), CO Bigalow ("pharmacy" with serious frag options) and then West Village / Soho for Odin, Malone (Bleeker), Le Labo, and right nearby Atelier Colognes. MiN was excellent. Then the usual stops like Barneys, Bergdorf, Saks, Bloomingdales etc. And lastly, popped into Krigler, right near Bergdorf and liked their Oud quite a bit. oh, and I went to at least 4 locations of Bond #9 - really liked their new york oud.

came home with a few handfulls of samples, many of which are going into Swap Box #4.
post #10853 of 20225
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baron View Post

Caron Poivre extrait. Lots of clove, and some carnation. It's reminiscent of Derby, but quieter, less mossy, less leathery. It's an strong scent that stays close to the skin, so it's pleasant to wear but it's doesn't intrude on the rest of the room. One of the most masculine of the classic french perfumes.

Good choice. I also liked this one and had the same reaction. I really think our noses are very similar, Baron! smile.gif
post #10854 of 20225
Quote:
Originally Posted by Master-Classter View Post

I'm also really liking the Lab 18, not sure if it's too 'fem' or 'soft' for me, but I think it's still ok.

Bond #9 - really liked their new york oud.

I've read some reviewers who were concerned about Labdanum 18 being too feminine for a guy. I have to say, if I hadn't read those reviews, I don't think that idea would have ever crossed my mind. Interesting to see that you had the same reaction. For my part, I'm enjoying it quite a bit, and wear it unselfconsciously.

I'm also enjoying New York Oud a lot.
post #10855 of 20225
Quote:
Originally Posted by L'Incandescent View Post

I've read some reviewers who were concerned about Labdanum 18 being too feminine for a guy. I have to say, if I hadn't read those reviews, I don't think that idea would have ever crossed my mind. Interesting to see that you had the same reaction. For my part, I'm enjoying it quite a bit, and wear it unselfconsciously.
I'm also enjoying New York Oud a lot.

ech, I bought a split of Lab 18, blind, and it does nothing for me. I thought it was supposed to be resinous, but this version is just powdery. feh.
post #10856 of 20225
Today, Mitsouko. I'm really convinced that if you gave this a masculine name, it would sell pretty well to guys
post #10857 of 20225
Quote:
Originally Posted by tps16 View Post

Today, Mitsouko. I'm really convinced that if you gave this a masculine name, it would sell pretty well to guys

baldy[1].gif WTF am I missing???
post #10858 of 20225
Quote:
Originally Posted by HORNS View Post

baldy[1].gif WTF am I missing???

...? I had a bottle of the edt and it never clicked for me.

Apropos of this, I posted a poal a while back on a scent board, and it seemed that there were no universal favorites or scrubbers. Nothing - nothing - was a surefire hit for anyone. Including Mitsouko.
post #10859 of 20225
The first time I tried Mitsouko, I didn't like it. Smelled pretty waxy to me, almost like crayons. A few months later, I sampled it again and it really did click. Everyone's tastes are different though, especially with something as subjective as smell. A lot of people seem to like Creed's Millisime Imperial, but I can't stand wearing it after a few minutes.
post #10860 of 20225
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thomas View Post

ech, I bought a split of Lab 18, blind, and it does nothing for me. I thought it was supposed to be resinous, but this version is just powdery. feh.

It definitely is powdery, but I don't think it's much more powdery than Habit Rouge, for example. And yeah, it really isn't as resinous as you'd expect given the name. But then again, I've learned not to expect anything from the Le Labo fragrances based on the names.
Quote:
Originally Posted by tps16 View Post

The first time I tried Mitsouko, I didn't like it. Smelled pretty waxy to me, almost like crayons. A few months later, I sampled it again and it really did click. Everyone's tastes are different though, especially with something as subjective as smell. A lot of people seem to like Creed's Millisime Imperial, but I can't stand wearing it after a few minutes.

I only know the edp concentration of Mitsouko, and I enjoy it. But there are other fragrances in that genre that I enjoy more, especially YSL Y Parfum. And I agree with you about Millesime Imperial, except that I can't stand it after the first few seconds!
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