PITTI 85: THE LEFTOVERS (THE GOOD KIND)
Words and pictures by Jasper L
Obviously, I can’t cover everything that appears at the Pitti Uomo trade shows. But we’re nearing the end of the whole “New, Hot Brands You Must Must Must Know” thing, and there are a few that I’ve passed over from the last show (i.e. 86, which you would know if you’d been following along) that I’ll be talking about briefly at some point in the future; brands I already covered at Pitti 85 but want to make sure I’m including somehow so that you guys have something to be excited about for…next summer? Man, that’s far away.
More importantly, and more immediately, there were a few things from Pitti Uomo 85 that got lost somewhere along the way. This post is an excuse to share some photos and info for three brands I saw at Pitti 85 that won’t get their own write-up. They’re seasonally relevant, so hopefully you enjoy reading about some things you can actually obtain. At an as-yet undecided point in the future, I’ll do the same for brands from Pitti 86 that I’ve already covered in the past. Make sense? Good.
A large Italian brand, mostly focused on denim. Well-known in Italy, less so everywhere else. They do streetwear classics: slim denim, boots, knits and outerwear.
What you can look forward to: Denim and everything else you could want, done slim, built to a reasonable standard, and more exciting (and more Italian) than your regular American mall brand.
From the horse’s mouth: No interview here. This was the first brand I saw after walking into the Fortezza for the first time ever, and I ran into their display area out of sheer panic. After conducting an interview with a very nice lady, I realized I had never pressed record. You’ll have to form your own opinions.
Why you want it: You want to look normal but still let people know that you're better than them. You hang out on Yoox a lot, and you get angry but strangely intrigued every time you see an ad from The Gap.
More at www.closed.com
These guys don’t like talking to press people, and they don’t like pictures. In fact, this summer I was informed that they “Never allow press photos,” so consider yourself lucky that I was able to snap these three back in January. Ten-C is a slightly neurotic brand that offers a system of synthetic outerwear with removable and swappable liners that lets you mix 'n match your insanely expensive gear.
What you can look forward to: High-quality, obsessive production of technical outerwear for the fabric-and-manufacturing otaku in all of us.
From the horse’s mouth: “You can play with all the styles, because you choose the shell and then you decide what liner to put inside. Like the down liner, otherwise you can do the one with the shearling. We have twelve colors in the collection, and four colors for the down liner, and two colors for the shearling liner.”
Why you want it: You love fabric. You love minimalism. You love obsessive attention to detail. You love Italian things that are made in Japan (who doesn’t?). You summit invisible mountains in the middle of Brooklyn. No one understands your swag.
More info at http://www.ten-c.it/
Tatras is a relatively well-known brand that does mostly quilted down jackets. The designer is also in charge of Sea Green, which you may remember as a brand that I was rather excited about last time. If Sea Green is for the distinguishing surfer-type, Tatras is what he (or she) wears when trading the surfboard for a snowboard and heading to Hokkaido.
What you can look forward to: High-quality quilted jackets in well-researched synthetics. A well-thought-out, urban approach to high design.
From the horse’s mouth: “This brand is a collaboration between Japan, Italy and Poland. The designer, [Masanaka] Sakao, is Japanese; the owners are Italian. We produce in Poland. The high quality comes from the down of the white Polish goose, so our jackets are made of 95% Polish goose, 5% regular feathers…It’s all a game of temperatures, and of mixing synthetic textures to create water-resistant and comfortable items.”
Why you want it: You are constantly freezing, but the thought of buying a puffer jacket from The North Face makes you want to vomit. You traded your Globes for Danners, but you secretly miss wearing skate shoes.
More at www.tatras.it
Named for the father of Angelo, the designer, Ermanno Gallamini is something of a mystery to me. Angelo seems to mostly hang out and chat with important-looking, grizzled sprezzatura types, getting photographed by anyone with a camera, phone, or possibly sketch pad. From what I understand, he weaves ponchos, scarves, and other things, and he may or may not sell them. But if you thought I wasn’t going to include this, you’re insane.
What you can look forward to: Yards and yards of double-faced fabrics, scarves and ponchos, hand-made silver jewelry, the occasional Disney totem.
From the horse’s mouth: [un-recorded interview in heavily accented, gregarious English and Italian]
Why you want it: You covet Angelo’s beard. Alternatively, you have read too many of my Pitti articles and have started to wish you were a rural Italian warlock.