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New Bespoke Brogues

post #1 of 24
Thread Starter 
New, of course, is always a relative term with me. Here's a pair of London Tan bespoke brogues I stumbled across a while back. And they really are practically like new--almost no wear on the Biltrite heel and just the lightest scratching on the soles. Without getting into those nasty and vexing problems of provenance and pedigree, these are among the nicest and most shapely bespoke shoes I've seen. Though hard to see well here, the waist is a true thing of beauty and the construction is absolutely top-notch. Perhaps the punching at Maxwell was a hair finer, but why quibble? I really like the way the toe medallion curves over the front and sides. These guys definitely have some years on them, but still manage to seem absolutely fresh. Any brave souls (resisting the urge to pun) care to take a crack at guessing the maker?




post #2 of 24
Wildsmith or Tuczek perhaps?
post #3 of 24
Not a clue, especially without seeing the sole. But irregardless!
post #4 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Harris View Post
irregardless!
LOL

Niquoine? Richomme? Richart?
post #5 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by pejsek View Post
New, of course, is always a relative term with me. Here's a pair of London Tan bespoke brogues I stumbled across a while back. And they really are practically like new--almost no wear on the Biltrite heel and just the lightest scratching on the soles. Without getting into those nasty and vexing problems of provenance and pedigree, these are among the nicest and most shapely bespoke shoes I've seen. Though hard to see well here, the waist is a true thing of beauty and the construction is absolutely top-notch. Perhaps the punching at Maxwell was a hair finer, but why quibble? I really like the way the toe medallion curves over the front and sides. These guys definitely have some years on them, but still manage to seem absolutely fresh. Any brave souls (resisting the urge to pun) care to take a crack at guessing the maker?





They seem to have a bit of a spade sole which makes me think late 1930-1940 tops.Mmm.. Maybe Tuczek going on those ones Sevan was selling...but his were a little more "finished". Maybe one of the regular names??
post #6 of 24
Thread Starter 
Well, thanks for the replies. I must admit that this was a bit of a trick rumplestiltskinesque question. I doubt anyone could have ever guessed the maker. I was, however, interested in seeing what stylistic affinities people would see.
These shoes came from a man whose clothes I have been watching cycle through the thrifts for at least the last ten years. In the 1960s he went to Chipp for several years before settling down with Henry Poole in the 1970s-90s. He must have ordered shirts by the dozen at Charvet--all in a very precise style: long collar bd with a loop on the back and a monogram on the chest. This, however, is the only pair of shoes I have ever seen with this customer's name in them.
Here's a shot of the fabric label inside the shoe, seemingly deteriorating from sheer age:


Sorry about the image size. I hate to throw the whole page off, but I can't seem to get it smaller. Anyway, the maker seems to be an outfit called Driver Moore located at 9 East 48th Street in New York. I can find no mention of such a cobbler on the internet and I don't recall ever seeing the name in print. Many things seem to have been at that address over the years (restaurant, psychiatric offices, comic book artist) but there's not one word about shoes. So it's a bit of a mystery, I guess. Maybe I should try asking one of the big-gun NY old-timers like Flusser or Boyer. This particular customer had a definite taste for the best, so it's hard for me to imagine that these are simply the work of a humble journeyman.
Finally, a picture of the sole:

post #7 of 24
j & M ?


AZTEC
post #8 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by A Harris View Post
Not a clue, especially without seeing the sole. But irregardless!

I beleive the word you were looking for "regardless". "But regardless!"
post #9 of 24
don't know who makes them, but they are nicer than a lot of the commisions you see posted here.
post #10 of 24
Quote:
Originally Posted by edmorel View Post
don't know who makes them, but they are nicer than a lot of the commisions you see posted here.
^bitter. Pejsek- Those are fantastic. I am trying to imagine where you find all of this stuff in San Francisco.
post #11 of 24
lovely sole on that one.

btw here you go:


post #12 of 24
G J Cleaverly?
post #13 of 24
Whoops I did'nt notice the New York address on the tag. I have no idea.
post #14 of 24
Here is your shoemaker:

Oliver Moore Custom Made Shoes
(212) 988-7360
1194 3rd Ave,
New York, NY 10021+5102

He has been mentioned on AAAC.
post #15 of 24
_ _ V E R M O O N all I can make out. Address is in NY. Could it be the label refers to the owner?
If not, then someone will be able to identify the maker I am sure.

My guess would be it is certainly very small bespoke shoe maker. The shoes bare "mom&pop-shop" craftsmanship on them.
They are a bit rough around the edges, so probably handmade to a great extend.

If I did not know that they are from US maker, I would say they are very Austrian- looking shoes.
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