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Proportion of buttondown shirts in a tailoring run

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
I was thinking of getting a large number of shirts made as I may have the opportunity to pass by Asia in few months. I noticed that even buttondown shirts don't fit me well in RTW because my neck size is quite out of proportion to the shoulder sizes.

If you were going to have a relatively large number of shirts made, what proportion would you have made in buttondown? I will be wearing a lot of business casual type stuff at least in the next couple of years, but figured I could readily pair dress shirts with point collars with trousers of various formality.
post #2 of 21
If you don't like buttondown collars, don't get them. I don't think it's a required item in your wardrobe.
post #3 of 21
I like them but in small quantities.

I'm more of a spread collar guy but oxford cloth shirts are cool and really only work on in a BD.
post #4 of 21
I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.
post #5 of 21
Jose, I tend to stay away from the various attacks that your posts seem to get, but with this latest post, I feel a need to tell you to just think for yourself and make your own mind. You seem to have mastered the sartorial fundamentals, and at this point should just do what you please without having to arrive at a consensus and needing the approval of others.
post #6 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.

Heretic !!

How dare you not use the multiplier on full moon Fridays
post #7 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by josepidal View Post
If you were going to have a relatively large number of shirts made, what proportion would you have made in buttondown?
Zero.
post #8 of 21
I've always wanted to try that infamous safety-pinned BD shirt combo of Astaire's.

In fact, I was very tempted to buy a Yohji Yamamoto dress shirt that had an oversized safety pin built into the collar and then add buttons.
post #9 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.

Your formulas almost match mine ! I use a 1.054 multiplier on full moon days though...
post #10 of 21
this thread pidals.
post #11 of 21
Used to prefer BD collar, but I've taken to points lately for open-collar "business casual" wear. I plan to get 3 BD collars for wearing with sportcoats/blazers: one in white, one in blue, and one in a pattern.

I would say it depends on how often you need to wear your shirts open-collar with a jacket.
post #12 of 21
After the 1st thousand, every 17th is BD.
post #13 of 21
Some say a man needs OCBDs to wear under sweaters but for the most part I've lived happily without them.
post #14 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
I work on a ration of 1 buttondown to every three normal collar with a 1.2 multiplier applied to the buttondown half of the ratio after the 8th shirt of an order and an additional 1.1 multiplier on any shirt over 35 in my closet. Orders placed on days of a full moon get a multiplier of 1.063, unless the full moon is on a Friday in which case I do not apply said multiplier.

Sure, but everyone knows that already. The more important question is the proportion of buttondowns with french cuffs vs. button cuffs.
post #15 of 21
I did no buttondowns until shirt number 25 or so. After that it's mix and match based on what I want. I really dislike buttondown collars on more formal fabrics, but don't mind spread colors on casual fabrics...
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