Thank you, I'll check that out. Operating with the slide release runs contrary to my experience (hence my interest).
Gun Appreciation Thread - Page 153
It's peculiar. I've always thought the reverse. If you release by racking, it should work for every gun, and it would have a bit more force driving the round into the chamber (extra spring compression). I guess it also minimizes wear on the slide catch (I believe it's more of a catch than a release, but the distinction may be nit-picky). I've never really worried about that, just being sure that the round would always chamber and having no issues dropping the catch with gloves or sweaty, twitchy hands in stressful circumstances.
Summary: I'm intrigued too.
So I was bellyaching earlier about plastic guns, and yet now I have one. SF is threatening to enact a ban on possession of expanding and frangible ammo, so I took this as an excuse to buy a .45. Trouble is you can't find a Colt 1911 anywhere in the Bay Area right now. Thought about the S&W M&P but no .45s to be found. Got an HK USP Compact. With the light/ laser and 10-round mag it looks like a miniature nail gun.
Nice purchase! I've always loved my HKs, but they're an entirely different type of animal than my 1911s. With very little frame weight, relative to the slide and round, they'll have a little more noticeable muzzle flip/rise, but they'll put the rounds where you want them. The best part is that you can still justify buying a 1911 later, because every collection can use at least one.
Now, one thing I don't miss about California is the 10-day wait (and the roster making it more effort to snag certain pistols). Have you just bought it, or have you made it all the way to your pickup day?
Enjoy it, man. I think you'll be glad you got the HK over the M&P, which is still a good piece, of course.
Can anyone recommend a turkey gun around $600? A pistol grip (traditional or built into the stock) would be a big plus. I hear the 870 is prone to rusting, and this will be used in Florida - so possible rain/lots of humidity and moisture are a concern. And in the future, it may be used in cold climates. Any thoughts on that? No idea why the 870 would rust more than its competition. I was considering these:
Choke constriction for turkey guns is your most important feature, and of course avoiding the sharp eyes that are going to be looking for you as your calling. Extra full choke of .045 for larger shot size seems to work for me but you have to pattern your load and choke to see what works in your case. Some go as tight as .065 for smaller shot size like 6's. At $600 limit on your budget I would look hard at the Ithaca turkey slayer. But a 125 thunderhead broadhead at the end of a 2117 arrow is my preference .
The 870 express is a far cry from the older all steel 870 Wingmaster. It is hit or miss on the finish rusting easily and some do some don't. Most police armories replace the plastic parts and even springs from Brownells. Mine does not rust easily but I have seen some that rust before they get back to the truck. But I have also seen some older Brownings that rust just by looking hard at them too.
I find most gun oils to be too light when it comes to keeping the rust away. I use a good synthetic gun grease on mine and have no rust issues at all. I hunt with wood and blued guns in rain, snow and otherwise damp conditions all the time. Once I get home I dry them off, wipe them down with a greasy rag and let them sit in an area with air circulation for a day or two and then put them in the safe. Oh and don't store your gun in the case you drag around in the field. I've seen far too many guns get covered in rust because the inside of the case was damp.
This is good advice. I don't use grease but Tri-Flow because it has worked for me over the years. When shooting clays most of the courses I visit are at least an hour and a half from where I live. After getting off the course if it rained I field strip the gun and use a small portable hair dryer without heat and blow water out of the action and dry the parts off. Then wipe down everything with a rag soaked in tri-flow that I keep in a plastic ziplock bag. When I get home I clean everything once again and let the parts sit out overnight before putting in the safe which has a dehumidifier in it. Coming out of the woods hunting I also field strip and wipe everything down and run an oiled soaked bore snake through the barrel(s). Putting a wet gun in a case of any type will cause it to rust by the time you get it out back at the house. On the exposed wood like the underside of the forearms and action housing you should also finish the wood. Oil will soak in to the raw wood and rot it over time and is as bad as allowing steel to rust.