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Suit linings, silk vs. bemberg, etc. - Page 3

post #31 of 36
Ermezine=viscose. I do not like this. Viscose is also the fiber for the cheap tipping used for many ties. I like Cupro/Bemberg for my items which have any lining.
post #32 of 36
any opinions on silk acetate?
post #33 of 36

There is an entire category of fibers from which various fabrics are made called Cellulosic man made fibers.

These are known by various names and abbreviations.

Some of them are, Rayon, Viscose, Acetate, Tencel, Lyocell, Bamboo, Modal etc.

 

We all understand animal fibers. They  are simply hairs from various animals.

Plant fibers likewise come from various plants.

Man made fibers are entirely synthetic and are basically forms of plastic.

 

The cellulosic man made fibers are a hybrid of the two worlds.

 

Plant cellulose from a wide range of sources from wood pulp, to cotton, to corn stalks, is liquified into a sort of soup, and then through various procedures is reconstituted and spun into fibers again only with new and different properties.

Bemberg Cupromonium, or Cupro for short, is just one of them.

 

They are all virtually identical chemically, but due to their myriad properties they are suited to different purposes and naturally have different costs.

 

Bemberg is superior to silk as a suit lining for several reasons

1) It has better moisture wicking properties.

2) It dries more quickly.

3) It is cooler as it breathes better.

4) It doesn't shrink as much when cleaned as silk linings were famous for doing, causing such problems as making the bottoms of suit jackets curl under as the lining shortened from shrinkage.

5) It retains its color better than silk. Stays bright and doesn't bleed.

 

If silk were better, then high end suits would use it. They don't.

The most I have ever seen used was a silk bemberg blend. (Not sure of percentages in that blend)

If other options such as Rayon or Acetate were just as good Bemberg in perforance then high end suits would use them. They don't. (Except for certain expesive suits which are actually not very good at all. If you see a price tag of $1,800 or more on a suit in a store and the lining is acetate I suggest you run away. There are plenty of good quality suits in the middle range that only use Bemberg linings. The high end guys have no excuse whatsoever.)

 

If the other options cost the same as Bemberg then cheap suits would have it. They don't.

 

Must be something too it. There is.

 

 

Written by

"In the suit business for 25 years and counting."

post #34 of 36
Quote:
Originally Posted by MBennett View Post

* * *

Bemberg is superior to silk as a suit lining for several reasons
1) It has better moisture wicking properties.
2) It dries more quickly.
3) It is cooler as it breathes better.
4) It doesn't shrink as much when cleaned as silk linings were famous for doing, causing such problems as making the bottoms of suit jackets curl under as the lining shortened from shrinkage.
5) It retains its color better than silk. Stays bright and doesn't bleed.

* * *

On my one coat with a silk lining (I believe from the Richard Weldon books), I agree that it is warmer than Bemberg.

I chose a silk paisley for a navy blazer since the colors and design were much more vibrant than the Bemberg choices. However, if I were to try it again I would think twice about it, and I would limit it to a winter sportscoat due to the warmth. I would never consider it for a summer suit. Ironically, I find Dupioni silk the coolest summer cloth. I believe that my silk lining is more tightly woven than Dupioni silk.

As to the other objections, my blazer is too new to determine shrinkage, color fastness, etc. I shall have to see over time.
post #35 of 36

hello,,

 

is threre any various type of bemberg based on the quality ? or differentiated just by the wave design like bemberg cotton, bemberg taffeta, bemberg satin etc. please advice what tipe of bemberg that suit for jacket?

post #36 of 36

As mentioned in previous posts, Bemberg is a trademark for Cupro (Cuprammonium rayon) fiber. Originally it was produced by a German company called J.P. Bemberg. Later due to financial issues, it was closed and the brand was took over by Japan Asahi Kasei. You can read more about this here.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Vita View Post
 

hello,,

 

is threre any various type of bemberg based on the quality ? or differentiated just by the wave design like bemberg cotton, bemberg taffeta, bemberg satin etc. please advice what tipe of bemberg that suit for jacket?

 

@Vita well we can't talk about types of Bemberg fiber since they are all the same but the fabric made of Bemberg can be differentiated based on the technical properties of yarn, fabric count, fabric weave, etc. For suit linings I'd go for satin weave bemberg.

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