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Shoe Dissection: Allen Edmonds, John Lobb, Bostonian and More! - Page 2

post #16 of 45
Cool stuff!

Someone should donate a Vawsh.

Maybe C&J too? Carmina?
post #17 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patek14 View Post


DWFII is correct. I am not talking about hybrid material insoles, toe support, or partial canvas liners. I'm talking about applying plyrib tape around the insole, rather than thinning the sides of the insole and direct sticking to the insole.

Any usage of canvas/flax on the interior lining would be very bad for rotting. I don't have any C&Js, but would assume any linen in the lining is wedged between leather layers only for stiffness?


For shape and to reinforce the stitchings.

 

C&J uses gemming as well.

post #18 of 45
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrd617 View Post

Cool stuff!

Someone should donate a Vawsh.

Maybe C&J too? Carmina?

First, I would most like to see a wealthy SFer sacrifice a pair of classic collection level Meermin shoes. I really want to see what $210 ish US gets you from them. Any volunteers have one and can send to that poster? Maybe a pair that you fell in and damaged the upper badly?

Second - why do you say vawsh?
post #19 of 45
That's how it's pronounced in Hungarian...
post #20 of 45

You wanted to see Vwash, so I got you Vwash.  Credit to Corium on the now defunct newsaboutshoes.de forum.  The Germans are much more inquisitive about shoes than the newly joined SF fashionista. 

 

An old pair of Vwash, circa 1994, dismantled 2008, with worn through insole, and one machine stitched resole that punched extra wholes on the welt.  Vwash is extremely well built for the price.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #21 of 45

Since you wanted to see Crockett & Jones, here's a pair of Crockett & Jones dismantled.  The French are also more curious about shoes than the brand whores on SF.

 

Credit to Achille on the now defunct French depiedencap forum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

post #22 of 45

And lets not forgot about Nutcracker's Scanlations.  Yup, the Japanese also have inquisitive minds.

 

 

 

 

post #23 of 45

Now anyone wants to see a pair of Saint Crispins cut up?

post #24 of 45
Thread Starter 
seeing that BRAND NEW pair of crockett and jones makes me cry. I am glad to see one chopped but why new!!!

Still looking to see what is under the hood of a $210 meermin goodyear welted...
post #25 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by DWFII View Post

I have done the holdfast /channel filler, but I finally just decided that, for me, it was amateur hour stuff (no offense to the maker). I can cut, what is fundamentally, a vertical channel in the insole and sew my inseam just fine, without removing any leather. Then I can close it back up and virtually hide the stitches completely. As a bonus nothing is removed and the insole stays level and no filler is needed.

And the stitches are protected.

(Click for close-up)





--
Edited by DWFII - 9/4/14 at 9:23am
post #26 of 45

Great posts!  

 

I'm sure most here know of this book, but for those who don't it is one of the BEST books on the art/craft of handmade shoes.  It takes the reader through the entire process from building the last to choosing the leather to building the welt, etc.

 

 

http://www.amazon.com/Handmade-Shoes-Men-Lazlo-Vass/dp/3833160454

post #27 of 45
Subscribed... lurker[1].gif
post #28 of 45
Quote:
Originally Posted by Patek14 View Post

seeing that BRAND NEW pair of crockett and jones makes me cry. I am glad to see one chopped but why new!!!

Still looking to see what is under the hood of a $210 meermin goodyear welted...

At $210 it's done at less than $50 OEM quality. So best to assume around AE but better than J&M or other very low budget shoes Lordpoint has dissected.qaa ~
post #29 of 45
Thread Starter 
given the great dissections on a range of mass produced shoes here from J&M up to crockett, I really want to see the "guts" of that $210 shoe. if its the same as AE, then wow that is a deal of a lifetime
post #30 of 45
So...neither here nor there, I just got done watching an interesting video on Goodyear Flex construction,Blake Rapid Flex and Bologna Construction. If I'm not mistaken all of these forego a true insole and substitute a forepart liner. There is something like a half insole of either leather or some sort of synthetic (fiberboard) in the heel and waist area but the front of the shoe inside is fundamentally constructed around a glorified sock liner.

After looking at the deconstructed 20 year old Vass and the hole in the insole--an insole that is probably 10 times thicker than the forepart of the methods names above--and considering how much wear the thin "sock" forepart is realistically expected to stand up to--I am feeling much more cynical about the shoe manufacturing Industry than I was before.
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