Originally Posted by ThunderMarch
Must say the topic on toe taps was a pretty good read. Thanks guys.@DWFII
, I'm wondering what you feel about this.... Is there some science behind it? And what do you prefer in your own practice?
Thanks in advance.
Frankly, I was trained in what I suspect was a fairly rigourous school of fitting. Pull-on boots don't have any laces, so the fit needs to be near-as-nevermind perfect right out of the gate...simply because there is no way to adjust the fit after the fact. No laces.
And, as a consequence, in my mind at least, there no ambiguity about what is a fit and what is not.
I take more measurements than most shoemakers that I have run across...in fact, more than any
shoemaker that I've run across.
I take a footprint (an ink copy of the plantar surface of the weight bearing foot--like a fingerprint) with a pedograph.
I take a length of foot (LOF) measurement. I take a joint measurement, and a waist measurement and a low instep and a high instep and a short heel and a long heel.
Some of these measurements are more associated with pull-on boots than shoes but I find all of them important when making shoes.
And I find all of them more or less dependent on the others. So that when the low instep is large, for instance, the the long heel will also be large. And if it is too large, reducing it will also reduce the the long heel and maybe the high instep and short heel, as well.
I am also extremely mindful of heel seat width and treadline width as well as the heel to ball measurement.
I don't know any shoemaker that takes, much less gives any attention to the difference between the low instep and the high instep. Yet it is an old and venerable approach. I don't know any shoemaker that takes or uses the short heel or the long heel. There may be some...I don't know everybody.
That said, I understand why they don't use those measurement--the laces--but I disagree.
I have never cut the shoe apart. My feeling is that if I am true to the footprint and the the measurements I don't need to. And I have a very, very good reputation for fit. One reason is that I, like many other makers, do make a prototype shoe. With it, I can see and feel, without cutting , what the foot is doing inside the "fitter's model."
Do I hold other methods in disdain? I do not. Everyone who does this has their own approach. Most work...at least to some extent, esp. in their hands. I have learned a lot over the years by talking to and respecting those other approaches. Sometimes I cannot see the logic. Sometimes I cannot see how to make those technique work for me. But I always come away with things to think about.
If truth be told, fitting is the key and the magic. Everything else is just determination, commitment-to-a-higher-than-you-can-possibly-reach standard, and muscle memory. Without fit, it's all for nothing.
And yet...and yet...I wish I knew more about the foot and how to model it.
Life isn't long enough, I fear.edited for punctuation and clarityEdited by DWFII - 3/18/16 at 8:42pm