Originally Posted by dbhdnhdbh
Wait. I thought the problem was that at the toe one has to cut into the, relatively thin, sole, probably the stitching as well, in order to mount a flush toe plate- rubber or metal. At the heel you have this thick block of leather/rubber to which to attach the plate. You can cut into it with no damage to the structure of the shoe. I am sure there is more to it than that. There always is when shoe experts explain what is really going on.
Well partially. When you cut into the outsole at the toe, you naturally cut the threads. And, if you don't go back and pick the old, cut stitches, and resew the outsole it leaves nothing to hold that part of the outsole on except glue and the screws used to mount the toe plate. Some will do that--restitch, most, I suspect, won't.
But if the screws are holding on to anything, half an outsole with no thread connection is not enough, IMO.
Furthermore the holes in the toe plate are positioned as close as they can be to the edge but in such a way as to prevent the screws from coming out the welt. That often leaves the screws in the inseam. It's a no-win situation all the way around.
Some claim they need it to prevent wear at the toe, but a simple splice of, let's say, Vibram Fineline, restitiched, would work as well or better...IMO. And if the cheapening, coarsening ugliness of the toe plate...as well as the Vibram splice...bothers you but you still don't want to spend the money on a resole, a leather toe tip splice probably wouldn't cost anymore than toe plates. Not in this shop at any rate.
Originally Posted by dopey
@DWFII: Why would a rubber toe plate be any better (or less damaging) than a metal one? Is it the absence of screws?
Yes, that and the fact...implied above...that the rubber splice is going to need
to be stitched . I don't think a credible job can be done without stitching.edited for punctuation and clarityEdited by DWFII - 3/16/16 at 3:20pm