Originally Posted by Trqmaster
That is a pretty wide holdfast. Looks to be maybe 10mm. Definitely wider then other pics I have seen. What would you recommend for strength without getting too far into the insole? I assume if the holdfast was really wide, the thread might be felt under the foot or perhaps bother the foot at some point once the insole forms to the foot.
When one stitches the upper/welt to the insole, what SPI do you recommend for strength. 3-5? Or is this dependent on where the stitches are being done? ie. around the toe vs. the sides of the foot.
It may be a little wide...as I said it is an old photo. But I like a wide holdfast (7mm?) and a thicker insole. As I said, I seldom if ever get dimples on the grain surface of the insole. If you see dimples, what prevents you from feeling them? Numb feet? I have customers that can feel a crumb of cement underfoot.
It's also worth remembering that if the shoe is fit correctly, the insole is pretty close to or exactly as wide as the weight bearing surface of the foot is wide--the footprint, IOW. so any width of hold fast is underfoot.
And FWIW, a wider holdfast is stronger...holds stitches better.
I strive for 3-5, yes. One of the "old" books said 3spi is minimum. But it shouldn't depend on location as much as you might think. That 3-5 spi is theoretically at
the welt. The outside circumference, IOW. In the channel is where the lengthening or shortening takes place.
There is a photo of a high end, handwelted insole in the other thread, and in the toe area, in the channel there was reinforcing thread--ostensibly to strengthen the shorter stitches.edited for punctuation and clarityEdited by DWFII - 2/9/16 at 6:24am