Originally Posted by Zapasman
DW, I am still getting to know my feet and after experimenting with different HW/GYW RTW lasts over the years I discovered that I have a medium-high foot arch. My recent purchase showed me that; the fit was better than any other before due in part to a med-high arch support. I have no bespoke shoes so it has taken me so much time to reach that conclusion. I would like to know more about this issue on a shoe.
How do you achive that?. I understand that a really shaped last, a good lasting process (+ leaving the upper on the last for a long period of time) and a narrow waist are necessary to reach that goal. But, what about an extended leather heel stiffener to reinforce that area?. What about a leather patch sewed on top of the linning in that area? (pic 1). Could the Delos insole showed (pic 2) contribute to that goal.
From a shoemakers´ point of view, what do you call a "good arch support". I would really appreciate to have your inputs here or you to refer me to some other post in SF. Thanks.
PS.-This make me think that many of us should go the other way around: for the first pair get a bespoke one, then, see if its apropiate to buy some RTW shoes.
Well, the bespoke maker always starts with the foot...as opposed to the manufacturer who always starts with the last (missing step)...but no two feet are the same. For instance, I have a naturally low arch, almost flat feet. and I do tend to pronate a bit. But an arch cookie, esp. an insert, bothers my feet.
The moral of the story is that additional arch support is not always appropriate even when the foot seems to pronate. Introducing pain to the foot in the name of foot health...or even fit....is counter-productive.
Generally speaking, a well constructed shoe made on a good last will provide the support most people need in a shoe. But a lot is dependent on the heel stiffener (and yes, the stiffener can be and often is, extended)--how thick it is, how stiff it is, etc.. And I believe that a good shank support helps more than a little, as well. Fit is a lot of it too. Or the way the customer laces up his shoe. Wearing a loose shoe will almost certainly obviate any support or structure in the shoe, esp. over time.
IMO, the narrowness of the insole in the waist is not as important as an appropriate width of the insole. The photo of insole you posted, does not
show a particularly narrow insole. In fact, I would almost call it a wide insole through the waist. But the maker is insetting the holdfast so that he can position the inseam further under the shoe and thus hide it...for a beveled and fiddleback waist, for instance.