Shoemaking Techniques and Traditions--"...these foolish things..."

Testudo_Aubreii said:

In DWF's honor, I thought I'd update mw's below list of North American custom boot and shoe makers. Sadly, several have closed up shop since mw wrote. SF hasn't done very well by these folks, I feel. If anyone should be wanting the better fit that custom-made footwear will give you, and be willing to work with makers to get it, it should be us on SF. But few of us seem to support them. That even though they in many cases charge less for MTM (or even bespoke) than famous manufacturers charge for RTW Goodyear welted shoes. Feel free to correct.

-DWF. Departed this life. By all knowledgeable accounts, made world-class footwear, fully bespoke, all by hand, with a starting price always less than that of John Lobb Prestige RTW gemmed factory-made shoes. Wow.

-Paul Davies (the London Shoemaker). Looks closed.

-Craig Corvin. Seems closed.

-Paul Opperman Custom Boots. Maybe closed?

-Brooklyn Bespoke. Split into Stiefelwerk (open) and Jesse Moore, the latter of which seems to have closed.

-Not sure whether James Sommerfeldt makes for customers anymore.

-Tim Goodrich became Sutorial Boot and Shoe Makers.

-Grisha's. Closed.

Not listed by mw:
-Kroop Boot (Maryland. MTM.). Closed in 2018.
-Don Ville (California. MTM.). Closed.
-Jon Gray (Nova Scotia. Bespoke.). Might be closed?
-Dehner Boot. (Omaha. MTM.) Still at it.
-Rick Roman (Oregon. Bespoke.). Still at it.
-Nasser Vies (Hamilton, Ontario. Bespoke and MTO.). Still at it.
-Treccani (Toronto. MTM Goodyear made in Italy.). Still at it.
-Sergio's Shoes Express (Mexico City. MTM Blake). Closed in 2021.
-Atelier Amareto (León, Guanajuato. MTM--and maybe bespoke--handwelted). Still at it.
-Dan Freeman (Vermont. Bespoke shoes.). Store still open.

A bit of good news is that younger makers have opened. Need more info, but:

-Francis Waplinger (NYC. Bespoke and MTM (or maybe only MTO, not MTM?))
-Reid Elrod (Bespoke in Portland, OR?)
-Rhoncus Atelier (Mexico City. I think MTM handwelted?)
-Castez Ermili Shoemaker (Querétaro. Looks like full bespoke.)

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taxgenius said:

I found a great interview that is a decade old.

Interview with D.W. Frommer II | Keikari.com

www.keikari.com

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emptym said:

DWFII has passed away:


He taught us so much about shoe making and care, sometimes with hyperbolic language, but always with lots of experience and wisdom. We will miss him.

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