Vintage Midnight Blue Tuxedo

Though I'm aware of the frequency with which you all discuss midnight blue dinner suits, I come to the forum seeking specialized input from you experts. Preliminarily, I am finishing up law-school and currently on a limited budget. I've made it a priority to begin building my wardrobe in a classic manner. That being said, in college, while in a bind, I purchased a tux from the dreaded Jos. A. Bank. I am disgusted with it. As more black tie invitations come my way, I want to acquire a vintage tuxedo that will look good until I can step up to a quality MTM. I have had my eye on ebay (US and UK) as well as a few other sights and am intrigued with the idea of a vintage midnight blue tux. I am a 40 R, perhaps on the slightly smaller end of the spectrum. My major questions are: (1) Is it possible/advisable to have a jacket taken in, and if so, to what degree? (2) Many jackets are available, however, matching trousers are more difficult to come by. Is it mandatory to wear trousers in midnight blue as well? And further, (3) Would it be advisable to buy jacket and trousers separately. Lastly, what is the accepted norm in terms of pleats? Any consideration is greatly appreciated. If I have made any mistakes, or committed and fashion feaux pas, please excuse, as I am new to this world and my brain capacity is minimal after a day of bar-study. I have included a few links for your imput. I am aware of the blemish on one of the jackets, however, it looks small and otherwise is in great shape.

Thanks.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/182120783/vintage-late-1940searly-1950s-schwobilt?ref=sc_1&sref=sr_0e75e1715ea472d9954390cc81bf81512222ff8a2c680533106ecd55b8337a92_1406406435_14948468_blue&sref2=MTgyMTIwNzgz%3AYmx1ZQ..%3AMTQ5NDg0Njg.%3AbWlkbmlnaHQgYmx1ZSB0dXhlZG8.%3Ady4w%3AMTQwNjQwNjQzNQ..%3AMzoxNDA2NDA2NDM1OnFIV3E2Nzl2M1VpZlVIMmRkS0FmZGFUUXhQdXc6ZjAwNTRmMDZlMDZkYjRlN2I5YzVlNDlhMWRhMjU2NTJmMmMzNWViM2I2Mjg0MDJlYzM5MjBlNDZlNjhkMjk3YQ..%3A3cf4644d9d2c7d799785bdb7d001a4879b10233f&ga_search_query=midnight+blue+tuxedo&ga_ship_to=US&ga_vintage_rewrite=vintage+midnight+blue+tuxedo&ga_original_query=2&ga_search_type=vintage&ga_view_type=gallery

https://www.etsy.com/listing/185750...2&ga_search_type=vintage&ga_view_type=gallery

Hey!

You should have a look through the black tie thread, if you haven't already. http://www.styleforum.net/t/275650/the-state-of-black-tie-your-observations

I couldn't get the first link to work, but the second one struck me as possibly a wool blend. You should avoid those.

Thanks, I will look over the suggested thread. Below is the correct link.


https://www.etsy.com/listing/182120...2&ga_search_type=vintage&ga_view_type=gallery

As to your questions:

1. Indeed it is and you should expect to. Common alterations include taking in the jacket body and adjusting sleeve length. Better quality suits can be altered quite a bit, but realize that there will be balance issues if you take it to far. The hardest alteration is adjusting shoulder width, it will most likely cost more than the coat to have it done right, avoid.

2. Frankly, I would go for a black dinner suit as your first. See also black-tieguide.com for more info.

3. Get a suit, not separates.

4. Get pleats if you need them.



OTM said:

2. Frankly, I would go for a black dinner suit as your first. See also black-tieguide.com for more info.

Click to expand...

Midnight blue is just as classic and is looks blacker than black (which looks kind of green in certain lighting), so there's no reason why he shouldn't go with midnight blue. The jacket and trousers need to match and will be sold together. A perfect cannot be bought separately.

I just think it will be hard to find.

The first shawl collar tuxedo looks fantastic, classically cut, and comes with all the fittings minus the shirt. Grab it if you're at least 34 in the waist because you shouldn't take the trousers in any further than that. It looks like it's built for someone 6' tall or over.

(1) Is it possible/advisable to have a jacket taken in, and if so, to what degree?
It's advisable to have it taken in through the two side seams; don't take it in too tightly or the button in the front will pull.

(2) Many jackets are available, however, matching trousers are more difficult to come by. Is it mandatory to wear trousers in midnight blue as well?
Complete vintage tuxedos are incredibly common. Matching fabric trousers are mandatory for midnight blue jackets.

(3) Would it be advisable to buy jacket and trousers separately.
No, never do this. You will never find a perfect fabric match.

(4) Lastly, what is the accepted norm in terms of pleats?
Single-pleated pants are generally the best for tuxedos due to the cut being based around the use of braces. The legs should be fuller than standard suit pants to capitalize on the clean lines and drape of the fabric (don't get them tapered unless you're dealing with bell-bottoms).

Pre-1960 vintage tuxedos are generally built as well as if not better than today's bespoke at rock-bottom prices. If you find the perfect one for you, you will have no reason to get bespoke.

Thank you all very much for the constructive advice. I apologize for my delayed response as job pursuits have engulfed most of my time. I will certainly be back seeking more advice for my professional endeavors.