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Covert coats - Page 2

post #16 of 29
How durable is a 50/50 blend?  I'd my next overcoat to last for years.  Should I shy away from cashmere? Thanks for your help.
I've owned cashmere coats, cashmere blend coats, and covert cloth coats. Cashmere tends to abrade and pill. I wore the Bergdorf covert cloth all winter long almost every day. Although this is not a long time, there are no signs of wear at all.
post #17 of 29
JLEC, Snatch is my favorite movie. The clothing worn by Turkish, Tommy, Brick-Top, and most all of the other characters has been an inspiration to me. Excellent English style. I love those coats as well. Do covert coats always have the black edge on the collar? I quite like that, myself. One of my favorite scenes in the movie (and one in which the coat appears): Turkish and Tommy meet with Mickey and the pikers in a field, to try and get him to do the fight. They bet - if the hare escapes the dogs, they buy him a Caravan. If the dogs get the hare, Mickey does the fight for free. I love the split-scenes and duality between the dogs chasing the hare, and Brick-Top's henchmen chasing down Tyrone on the street.
post #18 of 29
The black velvet collar was supposedly introduced in England as a means of showing sympathy for the plight of the upper echelons of French society at the time of the French Revolution. Since then, the velvet collar has stuck, though following the mourning period there was some experimentation with colour. Velvet collars are not to everyone's taste, and I certainly don't care for them - thus I bought a covert coat without a velvet collar.
post #19 of 29
MPS, I have never heard that. What a fantastic story. I guess the black velvet collar must have had something to do with all those frivolous Frogs - ahem, French - having their heads lopped off.
post #20 of 29
Do covert coats always have the black edge on the collar?  I quite like that, myself.
I think the edge you refer to nowadays is most often a very dark brown rather than black, at least on covert coats. I bought a fawn Cordings covert coat at their Piccadilly store more than a year ago, have worn it often and wouldn't do without it. They also have a grey one. As a rule they sell the coats without the velvet collar, but will replace the collar with a velvet one on request. When I bought it, when I indicated I wanted a velvet collar, I expected the sales-assistant to say something in the line of "Very well, sir", and I'd end up with said dark brown collar. Instead, out came a large piece of cardboard with about ten different coloured swatches of velvet, ranging from a mossy green, through a lightish grey, to the brown. There even was a lavender/lilac (very nice, I might add). Eventually I settled on a burgundy, which looks just a bit different from the 'standard' brown, but is every bit as distinguished IMHO. MtB
post #21 of 29
If you go for the velvet collar option, make sure you have a ready supply of anti-dandruff shampoo.
post #22 of 29
Thread Starter 
I would suppose that a velvet collar is the most traditional, but nowadays is it the most popular? I am not saying that I will be swayed by momentary fashion, I just want to know if I would "stand out" wearing an overcoat with a contrasting collar. The typical collar color seems to be green or brown. Which color would be more versatile? I.e., could I wear a brown collared covert coat with a black suit? One last question, and this is a tough one. Does anyone know who supplies the covert coats to Cordings? If it is a small, family run tailor in Scotland, I'd prefer to purchase directly from them. It seems more authentic to buy from the source. If anyone has any leads, please respond. -Matt
post #23 of 29
I would suppose that a velvet collar is the most traditional, but nowadays is it the most popular?  I am not saying that I will be swayed by momentary fashion, I just want to know if I would "stand out" wearing an overcoat with a contrasting collar.  
I very rarely see a velvet-collared coat in the U.S. and then only on a formal chesterfield longer coat. The velvet collar on the Cordings coat, IMO, would be better understood and more acceptable in Europe, where the style originated and enjoys greater familiarity.
post #24 of 29
I just want to know if I would "stand out" wearing an overcoat with a contrasting collar.
I can't comment on whether you'd stand out in the USA, so I'll defer to STYLESTUDENT. In The Netherlands, where I live, you also won't see an overcoat with contrasting collar that often. They are there, but few and far between. I've seen one of our royals in one and saw another such coat (with a plum coloured collar) in this newspaper photograph: . I have one myself, and that's about it. Then again, in London, where I was the week before Easter, I almost seemed to run into such coats at every streetcorner when I walked around St James'. Perhaps this goes to prove it indeed is less of an universal look. On the other hand, a covert coat usually is quite a bit lighter coloured than your usual and or average overcoat, so by wearing that coat you'll probably stand out anyway. I presume the predominant shade of (long) overcoats in the USA is dark (blue, grey or black). I also would let the colour of your coat rather than your collar be the determining factor in pairing it with a suit. So the question for me would be whether you would wear a light brown/tan(?) coat with a black suit. Would you wear a camel coat with a black suit? FWIW, I would be hesitant to wear my covert coat over a dinner jacket (tuxedo). Hope I've helped. MtB As an aside, the newspaper article I saw the photo with the plum collar in, was about a walk through the centre of The Hague -where I live- and focused on the Jugendstil architecture of the city centre. The site is in Dutch though... but there are several pictures in it of Jugendstil architectural design elements.
post #25 of 29
Cordings also offers their covert coats in Charcoal grey and I've seen some navy coloured ones for sale at other shops in the area. One of these might be a better match with black shoes.
post #26 of 29
That photo is not of a traditional covert coat - the latter typically has four rows of stitching at the cuffs and hem (as a means of preventing fraying - covert coats were originally hunting coats, and used to take quite a beating). The coat in the photo has buttons at the cuff.
post #27 of 29
While it is true that the traditional covert coat is the model with four rows of stitching along the sleeve cuffs and the bottom hem, and is a shortish length, there are of course other options. True covert cloth is durable and makes a terrific outercoat in whatever style one chooses. I don't particularly care for the 3/4 length of the typical Cordings-style version. The cover cloth topcoat I have is the marled color that seems a mix of grey, green, and fawn, but is full-length, double breasted, and the velvet collar matches the coat's color instead of contrasting.
post #28 of 29
Gentlemen, The covert coat is my favorite style for overcoating. To my understanding, it is called covert because one was to hide one's rifle or shotgun under the coat. The traditional covert coat does indeed have four rows of stitching on each arm as well as a hem on at the bottom of the coat. The covert coat is to me more functional compared to say a chesterfield model. For example, the chesterfield would touch the ground when watching up stairs, a no no for walking up and down to catch the subway. Also, for short gentlemen, because of the coat ending right at the middle of the knee(give or take 1 or 2 inches), it shows more legs, thus giving a person an illusion of height. So play with the features of the coat, no breast pocket or breast pocket(used to stuff your gloves) and instead of bands of stitching, opt for a button cuff. -HitMan009
post #29 of 29
Actually, the term "covert" applied originally to the cloth: it was designed to blend in with Blighty's flora.
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