Crazy executive pay + out of control expenses + poor operational efficiency = disaster waiting to happen.
Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF APR 20, 2015 Last post on 4/26/15 at 5:41pm in Classic Menswear
- The Grad Lounge Last post on Today at 11:00 am in Classic Menswear
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Today at 7:03 pm in Classic Menswear
- ISAIA NAPOLI - SUPER HUGE MEGATHREAD - Suits, Sport Coats, Jackets, Pants, Ties, Hangers &... Last post on 11/13/13 at 7:07am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
- ISAIA Napoli "Base S" Gray Suit - NEW - Ticket Pocket - Dual Vent - Super 140's -... Last post on 4/28/13 at 6:44am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
Tokyo Diaries, Day 1: It Begins! Ring Jacket, Petrosolaum, and Jun...
Last edited: 6/22/15
- Mad Men Is Totally Wrong About Suits and I Hate ItLast edited: 5/7/15
- Lanieri Presents: Deep Into the BlueLast edited: 4/13/15
- What Kind of Suit Should I Buy?Last edited: 6/4/12
- How Should I Start My Business Wardrobe?Last edited: 5/16/13
- Andrew Lock
- The Armoury
- Bespoke England
- Buttons 'n' Threads
- Blue Owl
- David Fin
- David Reeves Bespoke
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Elite Suits
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- Foster & Son
- Franco Ercole Bespoke
- Geil Mode
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- Gordon Yao, Hong Kong
- The Hanger Project
- Henry Carter Neckwear
- Howard Yount
- John Elliott + Co
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- M Classic 101
- Meermin Mallorca
- Need Supply Co.
- Neo Nouveau
- No Man Walks Alone
- Oak Room
- Oscar Hunt
- Paul Evans
- Percy Ivor
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Temple of jawnz
- Thurston Bros.
- Uncle Otis
- Vastrm Fashion
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Wolf vs. Goat
- Wrong Weather
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Zampa Di Gallina
A visit to Astor & Black - Page 12post #166 of 1719/9/13 at 12:09pm
Styleforum Top Pickspost #167 of 1719/9/13 at 3:56pm
actually the real moral of the story is to be vertical if you own one of these companies. We could trash Tom James all day for their ho hum suits made here in the USA by honestly antiquated manufacturing, but at least they own the fabric mill and the factories that go into their garments. Probably why they've been around since the 60spost #168 of 1719/10/13 at 10:30amQuote:Originally Posted by OTCtailor
actually the real moral of the story is to be vertical if you own one of these companies. We could trash Tom James all day for their ho hum suits made here in the USA by honestly antiquated manufacturing, but at least they own the fabric mill and the factories that go into their garments. Probably why they've been around since the 60s
I'm pretty sure Schottenstein started the business by buying a production facility in China. So he was partially vertical. But you're right, other parts of the chain he was missing.post #169 of 1719/10/13 at 10:49ampost #170 of 1719/10/13 at 7:28pm
Well don't be misled...Not many brands whether RTW or custom are actually vertical entirely. A&B was just one example. Also, a custom clothier may have a supplier who builds and owns all the patterns in house so manufacturing is more "owned" than otherwise.
The problem within production was less about proper production efficiency and more about relationships efficiency. Let's say the leader of Tom James (Spencer Hays) suddenly institutes policies that start to screw the employees in their factories. Yeah, he'd still be verytical but an an ensuing strike due to poor people management would screw production. Same with A&B. David Schottenstein has been out of the picture for quite some time, as well, so he really had nothing to do with the collapse. I'd name the guy(s) who really specifically did but that wouldn't be professional
It is definitely something in the clothing business that definitely didn't need to happen. A&B was in debt, yes, but it was business debt just like any other business has debt. Stopping up the production/shipping of garments stopped a crucial flow of financial blood across the entire company much like slitting the jugular. The company could've been sold and the new owner would've been very happy inheriting quite a large book of good business, but the liaison in between effectively wrecked that possibility.
Again, I won't name him by name but I hope someone higher up in this industry ladder catches onto this fact whether from this post or not because that guy's factory deserves to suffer for over 100 ppl needlessly losing their jobs.
What company would want to get in the production bed with a guy who would do that??post #171 of 1712/4/14 at 6:46pm
To anyone following this thread:
Astor & Black "the name" was bought by an old A&B agent and will be selling those garments again. I'm sure he bought the name because a great big client list came with it. So, if you see A&B pop up in the #menswear sphere again, that's why.
Secondly, I have 6 suits that were never received by former clients that I am looking to part with. They all fall in the 40-42 size range. They were made for 2 different clients. 3 for one and 3 for the other.
Without giving a ton of details right here, 3 are about a size 40R to 40L. Those 3 are made in char grey chalk stripe w/ vest, grey glen plaid with blue overcheck, and navy blue pinstripe in tom ford style (big lapels, 5 button sleeve cuff, 2'' trouser cuff etc). Each of these 3 suits is super 120s wool in all season weight.
The other 3 were from a higher end client. Size range is more 42L. One is a navy glen plaid with blue overcheck. The suit is made in a 3 roll 2 style with all patch pocket front, single vent and double track pick stitching all around. The shoulder is spalla camicia. The second one is a Lora Piana mid grey solid plain weave travel light. The 3rd is a 3 piece zegna trofeo with full hand construction.
All are fully canvased and 2 have full hand finished inside and outside buttonholes etc.
Message if interested. Prices are probably half or lower than retail.
- A visit to Astor & Black
- Mad Men Is Totally Wrong About Suits and I Hate It
- › HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) 1 minute ago
- › Australian Members 2 minutes ago
- › Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread 3 minutes ago
- › The What Are You Wearing Today (WAYWT) Discussion Thread, Part II 4 minutes ago
- › Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope) 4 minutes ago
- › Noodles' Good Natured Advice Thread (improving a business wardrobe) 5 minutes ago
- › The new official TOJ thread - updates, complaints, etc... 10 minutes ago
- › Reasons why New York Sucks 10 minutes ago
- › Things you just don't get 10 minutes ago
- › The Official VINTAGE T SHIRT KNOWLEDGE THREAD. 11 minutes ago
- › Human Scales Denny Suede Double Monkstraps by Mrvaerk
- › Brathwait - The classic slim wrist watch by Mrvaerk
- › Ps Paul Smith Laced shoes by yucaseca
- › Tom Ford FT5237 Eyeglasses Color 098 by Mrvaerk
- › Irish Setter Men's 838 Wingshooter 6" Waterproof Lace-up... by seanhorween
- › Borsa Long sleeve shirt by techstyles
- › Neil Barrett - LEATHER TROUSERS by newway
- › Mandarina Duck City Messenger by josh89
- › Quoddy True Penny Loafer by ppith
- › Timberland Men's Authentics 3-Eye Classic Lug Boat Shoe by Basil Ecurie
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 4: Epic Tokyo Photo Dump -...
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 3: The StyFoJapan Meetup!
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 2: Quick Photo Dump!
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 1: It Begins! Ring Jacket,...
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 5: We Dye Stuff Blue
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 6: Junky Special,...
- › Tokyo Diaries, Day 7: This Is The End
- › The #StyFoJapan EDC
- › The Styleforum x Huckberry Father's Day...
- › Fok's Gift Guide for Dads Who Refuse to...