Crazy executive pay + out of control expenses + poor operational efficiency = disaster waiting to happen.
Recent Images In This Thread
Related Forum Threads
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF JUL 6, 2015 Last post on 7/12/15 at 5:06pm in Classic Menswear
- NEW MEMBER INQUIRIES & QUICK QUESTIONS- CLASSIC MENSWEAR: WK OF APR 20, 2015 Last post on 4/26/15 at 5:41pm in Classic Menswear
- Classic Menswear Lounge Last post on 8/23/16 at 8:53pm in Classic Menswear
- HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014) Last post on Today at 9:04 am in Classic Menswear
- ISAIA NAPOLI - SUPER HUGE MEGATHREAD - Suits, Sport Coats, Jackets, Pants, Ties, Hangers &... Last post on 11/13/13 at 7:07am in Classic Menswear Classifieds
Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for Under $800
Last edited: 4/26/16
- What to Wear to (Almost) Any WeddingLast edited: 4/25/16
- What shade of grey should my wedding suit be?Last edited: 3/24/16
- Where can I buy an affordable suit for my wedding?Last edited: 3/24/16
- What shirt should I wear with a single button peak lapel dinner...Last edited: 3/24/16
- Allen Edmonds
- The Armoury
- Batch Mens
- Craftsman Clothing
- David Fin
- Drinkwater's Cambridge
- Equus Leather
- Exquisite Trimmings
- Falcon Garments
- Freemans Sporting Club
- A Fine Pair of Shoes
- H. Stockton
- Gentlemen's Footwear
- The Hanger Project
- H.N. White
- John Elliott
- Kent Wang
- Khaki's of Carmel
- Luxire Custom Clothing
- Meermin Mallorca
- MILER Menswear
- Need Supply Co.
- No Man Walks Alone
- Pierpont Leather
- Portland Dry Goods
- Proper Cloth
- Ring Jacket
- S.E.H Kelly
- Self Edge
- Spier & Mackay
- Standard & Strange
- Suspension Point
- Taylor Stitch
- Uncle Otis
- Vanda Fine Clothing
- Virtual Clotheshorse
- Yellow Hook Necktie
- Your MadeInItaly
A visit to Astor & Black - Page 12post #166 of 1719/9/13 at 12:09pmpost #167 of 1719/9/13 at 3:56pm
actually the real moral of the story is to be vertical if you own one of these companies. We could trash Tom James all day for their ho hum suits made here in the USA by honestly antiquated manufacturing, but at least they own the fabric mill and the factories that go into their garments. Probably why they've been around since the 60spost #168 of 1719/10/13 at 10:30amQuote:Originally Posted by OTCtailor
actually the real moral of the story is to be vertical if you own one of these companies. We could trash Tom James all day for their ho hum suits made here in the USA by honestly antiquated manufacturing, but at least they own the fabric mill and the factories that go into their garments. Probably why they've been around since the 60s
I'm pretty sure Schottenstein started the business by buying a production facility in China. So he was partially vertical. But you're right, other parts of the chain he was missing.post #169 of 1719/10/13 at 10:49ampost #170 of 1719/10/13 at 7:28pm
Well don't be misled...Not many brands whether RTW or custom are actually vertical entirely. A&B was just one example. Also, a custom clothier may have a supplier who builds and owns all the patterns in house so manufacturing is more "owned" than otherwise.
The problem within production was less about proper production efficiency and more about relationships efficiency. Let's say the leader of Tom James (Spencer Hays) suddenly institutes policies that start to screw the employees in their factories. Yeah, he'd still be verytical but an an ensuing strike due to poor people management would screw production. Same with A&B. David Schottenstein has been out of the picture for quite some time, as well, so he really had nothing to do with the collapse. I'd name the guy(s) who really specifically did but that wouldn't be professional
It is definitely something in the clothing business that definitely didn't need to happen. A&B was in debt, yes, but it was business debt just like any other business has debt. Stopping up the production/shipping of garments stopped a crucial flow of financial blood across the entire company much like slitting the jugular. The company could've been sold and the new owner would've been very happy inheriting quite a large book of good business, but the liaison in between effectively wrecked that possibility.
Again, I won't name him by name but I hope someone higher up in this industry ladder catches onto this fact whether from this post or not because that guy's factory deserves to suffer for over 100 ppl needlessly losing their jobs.
What company would want to get in the production bed with a guy who would do that??post #171 of 1712/4/14 at 6:46pm
To anyone following this thread:
Astor & Black "the name" was bought by an old A&B agent and will be selling those garments again. I'm sure he bought the name because a great big client list came with it. So, if you see A&B pop up in the #menswear sphere again, that's why.
Secondly, I have 6 suits that were never received by former clients that I am looking to part with. They all fall in the 40-42 size range. They were made for 2 different clients. 3 for one and 3 for the other.
Without giving a ton of details right here, 3 are about a size 40R to 40L. Those 3 are made in char grey chalk stripe w/ vest, grey glen plaid with blue overcheck, and navy blue pinstripe in tom ford style (big lapels, 5 button sleeve cuff, 2'' trouser cuff etc). Each of these 3 suits is super 120s wool in all season weight.
The other 3 were from a higher end client. Size range is more 42L. One is a navy glen plaid with blue overcheck. The suit is made in a 3 roll 2 style with all patch pocket front, single vent and double track pick stitching all around. The shoulder is spalla camicia. The second one is a Lora Piana mid grey solid plain weave travel light. The 3rd is a 3 piece zegna trofeo with full hand construction.
All are fully canvased and 2 have full hand finished inside and outside buttonholes etc.
Message if interested. Prices are probably half or lower than retail.
- What to Wear to (Almost) Any Wedding
- › Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2016 - News, Pictures, Sizing,... 12 seconds ago
- › Recent purchases - Part II 1 minute ago
- › Vass x Jeeves Mahogany English Grain Byron Boot GMTO - Until... 1 minute ago
- › The Official Los Angeles Shopping + Dining Thread 1 minute ago
- › Epaulet shop - Official Affiliate thread 2 minutes ago
- › Random fashion thoughts - Part II (A New Hope) 3 minutes ago
- › John Elliott - official affiliate thread 4 minutes ago
- › Unfunded Liabilities: a/k/a The Cloth Thread 4 minutes ago
- › I'm steamed: Half-canvassed Jos A Bank suit is fused and bubbling 4 minutes ago
- › ***The Official eBay / B&S / eShop Someone-Should-Kop Thread*** 5 minutes ago
- › Dr. Martens Unisex Original 10 Eye Steel Toe Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Chippewa Men's Super Logger Waterproof Boot by JC Echeverry
- › Mosey Life Working Girl Travel Laptop Tote by sprout2
- › Allen Cox Brief trunks by sprout2
- › Sutor Mantellassi Men's C 567 Oxford by sprout2
- › Alden Burgundy Shell Cordovan Longwing by smfdoc
- › Alden Black Shell Cordovan Plain Toe by smfdoc
- › Florsheim Vincent Wingtip Oxford by smfdoc
- › Allen Edmonds Lasalle Dress Shoes by Lobster33
- › Clark Street Casual Shoes by Lobster33
- › Five Menswear Trends for Fall
- › Don’t “Just Buy a New One”,...
- › Why Pay Such A Premium For Sunspel Or James...
- › In the Details: Lucian Föhr
- › A Sunday Drive: Styleforum Spring GMTOs
- › Should I dryclean my jeans, and if not, how...
- › The 5 Most-Hyped Handbags of the Moment
- › Eight Vignettes in Search of a (Wedding) Theme
- › The Kent Wang Cufflink Giveaway
- › Where to Buy a Last-Minute Wedding Suit for...