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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 64

post #946 of 1828

This also might be the photos, but it looks like they didn't fully address a low left shoulder--I say that because of a bit of crumpling on the left side around the mid-section. Hard to fix without some padding, I imagine. The trousers look great from the front. I think you've said that bow legs are an issue. It seems like they did a good job with that. Nice feel overall!

post #947 of 1828

This is the 7oz fabric right? Hard to not have wrinkles and look a bit off in pics.

post #948 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

This also might be the photos, but it looks like they didn't fully address a low left shoulder--I say that because of a bit of crumpling on the left side around the mid-section. Hard to fix without some padding, I imagine. The trousers look great from the front. I think you've said that bow legs are an issue. It seems like they did a good job with that. Nice feel overall!

I noticed that as well, but couldn't tell if maybe the jacket just didn't need some straightening given how the hem looks.

If he really does need to adjust the left side, he could have the tailor adjust it without adding padding. It would just require taking it up at the shoulder line.

Alternatively, if there's room, the tailor can let right side out so that it drops down. With a shorter jacket like that, I think that would be the better move.
post #949 of 1828
^ teacha.gif The latter does make sense. Not that I really know anything but I wonder if dropping one side presents problems for left-right balance and keeping the center line straight.
post #950 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

OK guys, so here's the finished product. As some of you already guessed, this commission was from Coccinella in Osaka. I'm not aware of anyone else from SF having used them before.

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On the whole I'd say it's a pretty good effort for a first commission. Styling is exactly as requested. Lots of well-executed handwork.

The jacket possibly could have done with a fraction more waist suppression and 1-2cm extra overall length. The right sleeve could maybe do with an extra 1cm length. I might have preferred a slightly lower buttoning point. The back is not totally clean but I think this has more to do with the very lightweight Draper WSL fabric than any mistake in the tailoring.

I'll talk to head tailor Mr Chujo about these issues. I could possibly send the jacket back, but it would probably be easier just to ask my alterations tailor in Sydney if he could make some small adjustments. Or even just leave it as is.

I will certainly use Coccinella again. Lovely people, a pleasure to deal with, and they showed a good understanding of modern "classic" styling.

Feedback welcome.

Congrats. I'm sure your future commissions will turn out better and better. I've been meaning to try Coccinella.... I've ended up using Sarto Domenica and have loved his work so far
post #951 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 

OK guys, so here's the finished product. As some of you already guessed, this commission was from Coccinella in Osaka. I'm not aware of anyone else from SF having used them before.

 

 

 

On the whole I'd say it's a pretty good effort for a first commission. Styling is exactly as requested. Lots of well-executed handwork.

 

The jacket possibly could have done with a fraction more waist suppression and 1-2cm extra overall length. The right sleeve could maybe do with an extra 1cm length. I might have preferred a slightly lower buttoning point. The back is not totally clean but I think this has more to do with the very lightweight Draper WSL fabric than any mistake in the tailoring.

 

I'll talk to head tailor Mr Chujo about these issues. I could possibly send the jacket back, but it would probably be easier just to ask my alterations tailor in Sydney if he could make some small adjustments. Or even just leave it as is.

 

I will certainly use Coccinella again. Lovely people, a pleasure to deal with, and they showed a good understanding of modern "classic" styling.

 

Feedback welcome.

 

Lovely cut and finishing. As you pointed out, a slight waist suppression could improve the fit a bit, as lengthen the jacket a couple of cms (rather a styling preference).

 

My question is: how these asian tailors manage to "replicate" the soft italian tailoring so good? Are they south-italian trained?

 

I have seen some pieces from Coccinella through tumblr before, and I though it was MTM done by Sartoria Partenopea or another neapolitan factory.

 

Aside that, I love the fabric, but just for sportcoats.

 

Best,

post #952 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by aristoi bcn View Post

Lovely cut and finishing. As you pointed out, a slight waist suppression could improve the fit a bit, as lengthen the jacket a couple of cms (rather a styling preference).

My question is: how these asian tailors manage to "replicate" the soft italian tailoring so good? Are they south-italian trained?

I have seen some pieces from Coccinella through tumblr before, and I though it was MTM done by Sartoria Partenopea or another neapolitan factory.

Aside that, I love the fabric, but just for sportcoats.

Best,

Coccinella does Florentine-style tailoring. There are other Japanese tailors that do Neapolitan.....
post #953 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post
 

This also might be the photos, but it looks like they didn't fully address a low left shoulder--I say that because of a bit of crumpling on the left side around the mid-section. Hard to fix without some padding, I imagine. The trousers look great from the front. I think you've said that bow legs are an issue. It seems like they did a good job with that. Nice feel overall!

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I noticed that as well, but couldn't tell if maybe the jacket just didn't need some straightening given how the hem looks.

If he really does need to adjust the left side, he could have the tailor adjust it without adding padding. It would just require taking it up at the shoulder line.

Alternatively, if there's room, the tailor can let right side out so that it drops down. With a shorter jacket like that, I think that would be the better move.

 

Look again. I actually have a dropped right shoulder. This is clearly visible in the rear photo.

 

The only "crumpling" I can see is just some creasing in the fabric from having been packed in a box for transport.

 

I did draw their attention to my dropped right shoulder and I think they have actually addressed it pretty well. I know they did some pinning at the time of the basted fitting to account for it.

 

I will have the suit pressed (actually maybe do it myself, very carefully of course) and then get some "action" shots. I think it will show the suit better.

post #954 of 1828
Looks good mate. Another vote for lower buttoning point, some waist suppression and slightly longer length but overall a great first commission
post #955 of 1828
Quote:

What a coincidence! I saw your picture on Ciardi's instagram recently as a "happy customer" haha! Are they your favorite Neapolitan tailor? Why did u choose them instead of other great tailor eg Panico, Peluso, Saboni, ... ?

post #956 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




The jacket possibly could have done with a fraction more waist suppression...

It is interesting. My first impression when I looked at the front view was that it could use considerably more waist suppression. But when I looked at the back view it seemed it needed little or no additional suppression. Not sure whether anyone else agrees with me or - assuming I'm not nuts - how the discrepancy would be addressed.

Love the fabric. I'm definitely going with a WSL blend for my next suit.
post #957 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

....However, if you look at the back, there is drape around each of the shoulder blades that provides sufficient movement so that the jacket is incredibly comfortable despite the close cut in front. The back might look "messy" to some, but those fabric folds are what allows movement while retaining the close cut in the front.

Cifonelli back (an overcoat, but nonetheless you can see the fabric folded by the shoulder blades):




Huntsman front (a bit of drape apparent by the under arms even when the jacket is unbuttoned):



Huntsman back (almost perfectly flat throughout):



So multiple ways to accomplish freedom of movement. These are just two examples. And it might make one part of the jacket look "messy" to some I suppose.

 

I cannot agree with you about the back of Cifonelli suit. I don't know their cut and how it feels, but the picture of the back of the coat that you show me is a variation of fabric fold on overcoat. These types of fabric folds apear on casual jacket (eg shooting jacket) or overcoat, to give you more room to move, as these jackets and coats are usually cut looser. And these types of folds are used by all tailors, not only them. I can illustrate this with the picture from Ferdinando Caraceni tailor's instagram (below).

 

 

Btw, outstanding Huntsman jackets, sir. It fits you like a glove! Were they all cut by mr.Dario? And were you allowed to choose cutters or Huntsman arrange it for you?

post #958 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by otterhound View Post


It is interesting. My first impression when I looked at the front view was that it could use considerably more waist suppression. But when I looked at the back view it seemed it needed little or no additional suppression. Not sure whether anyone else agrees with me or - assuming I'm not nuts - how the discrepancy would be addressed.

Love the fabric. I'm definitely going with a WSL blend for my next suit.

Maybe the tailor have used the drape cut? Since in my experience Asian tailors (particularly Japanese and Korean) tend to have similar housestyle as Neapolitan tailors.

post #959 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Six View Post

 
This also might be the photos, but it looks like they didn't fully address a low left shoulder--I say that because of a bit of crumpling on the left side around the mid-section. Hard to fix without some padding, I imagine. The trousers look great from the front. I think you've said that bow legs are an issue. It seems like they did a good job with that. Nice feel overall!
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I noticed that as well, but couldn't tell if maybe the jacket just didn't need some straightening given how the hem looks.


If he really does need to adjust the left side, he could have the tailor adjust it without adding padding. It would just require taking it up at the shoulder line.


Alternatively, if there's room, the tailor can let right side out so that it drops down. With a shorter jacket like that, I think that would be the better move.

Look again. I actually have a dropped right shoulder. This is clearly visible in the rear photo.

The only "crumpling" I can see is just some creasing in the fabric from having been packed in a box for transport.

I did draw their attention to my dropped right shoulder and I think they have actually addressed it pretty well. I know they did some pinning at the time of the basted fitting to account for it.

I will have the suit pressed (actually maybe do it myself, very carefully of course) and then get some "action" shots. I think it will show the suit better.

In the photo, your left shoulder looks low. Maybe it was just how you were standing and needing a pressing. You've got the jacket and the shoulders, so I'll take your word for it. But here's what I saw.

post #960 of 1828
Quote:
Originally Posted by TriTTran View Post

I cannot agree with you about the back of Cifonelli suit. I don't know their cut and how it feels, but the picture of the back of the coat that you show me is a variation of fabric fold on overcoat. These types of fabric folds apear on casual jacket (eg shooting jacket) or overcoat, to give you more room to move, as these jackets and coats are usually cut looser. And these types of folds are used by all tailors, not only them. I can illustrate this with the picture from Ferdinando Caraceni tailor's instagram (below).

Nope - youre wrong. Attached is a picture of the Cifonelli suit I'm wearing today. It is a little tricky to see because I'm taking a picture of my back in the mirror, but you can clearly see the folds of fabric through the back that give the drape. It is there in the back of every Cifo suit.

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