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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 55

post #811 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post


He had something clever to say about that on my IG feed.


Vox had something clever to say? What a surprise.

 

Here's my current project. Basted fitting last two days ago. Cloth is Draper WSL no. 2421, 7 1/2 oz - very light and airy. This suit will be quarter-lined and is intended for Sydney summers. (It was around 40 degrees C in Sydney today.)

 

 

^ Jacket will be lengthened; left sleeve shortened slightly. Wrinkles underneath shoulders at back will need fixing. Collar at back will be raised by about 1cm. Drape over chest is good with no lapel bowing (my bête noir).

 

Hip pockets will be patch.

 

Pants are pooling behind knees - this will be fixed. They will be widened a little. The rise will be higher (you can't see the rise in these pix but it's too low).

 

 

Sleeve pitch is off and will be fixed. You can see the way the pents are sagging at the back in these shots. Will be addressed. I might have them shortened about 1cm too.

 

Here are some ideas for the buttons:

 

 

My preference is for the lower of the two dark green buttons in the pic immediately below. Blends well with the suit.

 

 

Or maybe this -

 

 

I'm leaving the identity of the tailor a secret for now, as they are new to SF and I want them to just get on with the job without undue pressure. I'd appreciate if those who might hazard a guess could refrain from doing so now, although I'll answer PMs.

 

Forward fitting next week. Comments welcome.

post #812 of 1726
New project with my HK tailor. This will be my 3rd blazer with them so just a basted fitting, a few minor tweaks, and then to the final product. Fabric is H&S Peacock from @edmorel. Coincidentally the shirting is from him as well smile.gif It's going to be a SB 3r2, wide lapels, patch pockets, barchetta breast pocket, soft shoulders and body.



post #813 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post
 
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post


He had something clever to say about that on my IG feed.


Vox had something clever to say? What a surprise.

 

 

Here's my current project. Basted fitting last two days ago. Cloth is Draper WSL no. 2421, 7 1/2 oz - very light and airy. This suit will be quarter-lined and is intended for Sydney summers. (It was around 40 degrees C in Sydney today.)

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

^ Jacket will be lengthened; left sleeve shortened slightly. Wrinkles underneath shoulders at back will need fixing. Collar at back will be raised by about 1cm. Drape over chest is good with no lapel bowing (my bête noir).

 

Hip pockets will be patch.

 

Pants are pooling behind knees - this will be fixed. They will be widened a little. The rise will be higher (you can't see the rise in these pix but it's too low).

 

 

Sleeve pitch is off and will be fixed. You can see the way the pents are sagging at the back in these shots. Will be addressed. I might have them shortened about 1cm too.

 

Here are some ideas for the buttons:

 

 

My preference is for the lower of the two dark green buttons in the pic immediately below. Blends well with the suit.

 

 

Or maybe this -

 

 

I'm leaving the identity of the tailor a secret for now, as they are new to SF and I want them to just get on with the job without undue pressure. I'd appreciate if those who might hazard a guess could refrain from doing so now, although I'll answer PMs.

 

Forward fitting next week. Comments welcome.

 

 

Looks like a very promising start. Congrats! I noticed a bit of rippling in front on your right side. For me, with RTW, that happens because of a low right shoulder. Assuming it's not just posture in the photo and the tailors haven't caught it already, you might point it out to them.

post #814 of 1726
A few more pics of the Drapers green linen from BnT





post #815 of 1726

That's a great fabric.

post #816 of 1726
details on the buttons?
post #817 of 1726
Good question. I'm catching up with Joe tomorrow for the first fitting of my tux, I'll ask him about the buttons then
post #818 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Good question. I'm catching up with Joe tomorrow for the first fitting of my tux, I'll ask him about the buttons then

is the weight for this around 8oz? Thanks!

post #819 of 1726
I think it's around 10 or even 11 - it doesn't wrinkle easily and feels quite substantial - I'll check that too
post #820 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by cchen View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
New project with my HK tailor. This will be my 3rd blazer with them so just a basted fitting, a few minor tweaks, and then to the final product. Fabric is H&S Peacock from @edmorel. Coincidentally the shirting is from him as well smile.gif It's going to be a SB 3r2, wide lapels, patch pockets, barchetta breast pocket, soft shoulders and body.




I am pretty convinced that this is the bespoke outsource service provided by Ascot Chan in "Element Store"...

The work looks very run-of -the-mill.....
post #821 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by add911_11 View Post

I am pretty convinced that this is the bespoke outsource service provided by Ascot Chan in "Element Store"...

The work looks very run-of -the-mill.....

Yes it is AC and they do it in-house. I like the quality of the work for the price point. I work on SR and still get clothing made in Japan and Italy. My AC made garments are in my rotation and will continue to be.
Edited by cchen - 2/28/16 at 7:20am
post #822 of 1726

Here's some pics from my forward fitting today. You will notice some substantial improvements from last week's snaps.

 

 

^ Jacket has been lengthened slightly, which has thrown the quarters off. They will be a little more open than this.

 

What I really like is they way they have cut the trousers to hide my bow legs!

 

 

^ Trousers will be lengthened by 5mm.

 

 

Sleeve pitch and trouser pooling behind knees have both been fixed.

 

 

Both I and the master tailor were happy with this. The suit will now be finished, and sent to me in about one month, at which point I will post further pics and also reveal the identity of the tailor. I am not aware that any other SF member has ever used them.

 

Comments welcome as always. It's not too late to make changes.

post #823 of 1726

Really like the shoulders!

post #824 of 1726
Thanks. They will be in the "Spalla camicia" style.
post #825 of 1726
Overall very nice, but I do find the buttoning point to be very high. It is something I have been struggling with myself, but have now needed up having it half an inch or so above my belly button. But of course it's also a question of the proportions of your body (long legs/short upper body etc.).
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