Ongoing Bespoke Projects

My fitting and the reception of the suit of Davide Tofani. Cloth is a vitale barberis flannel. Davide is really a great guy we have some great time with his friends around a delicious meal, and the work is pretty good, suit is very light, with nice lapel roll :


























And a Blue jacket also in vitale Barberis at Sartoria Ciardi, and a light grey flannel trousers (no pictures) from Holland and sherry. I love the Ciardi brothers.










I wrote a long article about artisan in Napoli, but it's in french, for those who read french, otherwise there is a lot of pictures : http://depiedencap.leforum.eu/t20652-Carnet-de-voyage-BLEAP-Naples.htm?q=naples

I'd be disappointed with the pattern matching at the shoulder seam, but it's still a nice suit.

Murlsquirl said:

I'd be disappointed with the pattern matching at the shoulder seam, but it's still a nice suit.

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http://parisiangentleman.fr/academy/pourquoi-toujours-saligner/

Pattern matching at the shoulders is absolutely not a quality canon, but sometimes with a bit of luck it's happens. Thanks



Murlsquirl said:

I'd be disappointed with the pattern matching at the shoulder seam, but it's still a nice suit.

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You shouldn't be; not supposed to...

I wasn't implying that it was bad work...only that it would bug me. I can be a wee bit obsessive over silly things.

Murlsquirl said:

I wasn't implying that it was bad work...only that it would bug me. I can be a wee bit obsessive over silly things.

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We are all obsessed by silly things, otherwise we weren't here

Murlsquirl said:

I wasn't implying that it was bad work...only that it would bug me. I can be a wee bit obsessive over silly things.

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Since the front and back meet the shoulder seam at differing angles, it's impossible to line up the patterns. Certainly not over the full length of the shoulder.



EliodA said:

Since the front and back meet the shoulder seam at differing angles, it's impossible to line up the patterns. Certainly not over the full length of the shoulder.

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Impossible is nothing! It would drive me nuts...I'm weird. Carry on with bespoke adventures.



Murlsquirl said:

I'd be disappointed with the pattern matching at the shoulder seam, but it's still a nice suit.

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Mahon explains here why the pattern cannot match in a well cut coat.

http://www.englishcut.com/2014/07/18/the-matching-myth-3/

I'm posting this here because there's not a dedicated bespoke shirt thread that I know of, so I hope those of you better versed in the world of bespoke can help me out. I've pulled this quote from an old thread about Kabbaz (edited for brevity):

Omegablogger said:

There seems to be a modicum of agreement that Mr Kabbaz is amongst the best shirtmakers in the world, lets be harsh and say 2nd after AM.

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who is AM?

Anna Matuozzo

WeakMonday said:

Anna Matuozzo

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Thank you, kind sir. Does she truly rival Kabbaz?

No experience with either

WeakMonday said:

No experience with either

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I wonder if there's anyone on this forum that has deep enough pockets and spends enough time in Napoli to frequent both establishments

Kabbaz is based in the Hamptons, not Napoli. He makes a different product than Matuozzo. The only handwork he does is the shanked buttons. He makes a trial shirt and will keep remaking them until he is satisfied. Manton is the only one I know with shirts from Kabbaz.