bienluienapris
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I go to Napoli this week, I'll take better pictures after that.
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There is no "standard length for most italian jackets". You're probably aware of this, but this really cannot be stressed enough.
+1
The length really depends on tailor's style. Some tailors tend to cut long jacket, some of them short. For me the length of the jacket above by Ciardi is too short. This jacket should be around 1.5-2cm longer, this will make the jacket more balanced. Unfortunately majority of tailors in Naples don't care that much about the fit. Around 5-6 tailors that i tried in Naples only 1 fitted a good jacket. That's why i stopped to go Naples and headed to elsewhere (in south of Italy)
+1
The length really depends on tailor's style. Some tailors tend to cut long jacket, some of them short. For me the length of the jacket above by Ciardi is too short. This jacket should be around 1.5-2cm longer, this will make the jacket more balanced. Unfortunately majority of tailors in Naples don't care that much about the fit. Around 5-6 tailors that i tried in Naples only 1 fitted a good jacket. That's why i stopped to go Naples and headed to elsewhere (in south of Italy)
Did you ask to make them longer?
Which is the one you liked?
Out of curiosity, what do you mean by a "perfect" back?
I think they both look pretty great, and the fabric choices are awesome.
+1 my first "bespoke" coat looks great but I can't even tie my shoes in it. I would rather look a bit rumpled at still be able to move about.From what little I know, a perfectly wrinkle-free jacket back while "robo-posed" is probably too tight in real life.
We all need to remember that the static-posed photos we see on this board only tell part of the story about any given garment. A really well-cut jacket should allow freedom of movement.
Surely this means a bit of extra material creating folds here and there while in a resting position.
From what little I know, a perfectly wrinkle-free jacket back while "robo-posed" is probably too tight in real life.
We all need to remember that the static-posed photos we see on this board only tell part of the story about any given garment. A really well-cut jacket should allow freedom of movement.
Surely this means a bit of extra material creating folds here and there while in a resting position.
I think you might be misinterpreting what people say about drape. There are lots of clean cut suits with room for movement. See some of the threads at Cutter & Tailor or @jefferyd's work.
It's true that many Neapolitan tailors are a bit sloppy with their work. I don't think it has anything to do with movement, sprezzatura, or vertical vs. horizontal folds. The work is just kind of sloppy. Doesn't mean someone can't still look good in their Neapolitan suit, but maybe something to keep in mind if you're a stickler for perfection and precise tailoring.
From what little I know, a perfectly wrinkle-free jacket back while "robo-posed" is probably too tight in real life.
We all need to remember that the static-posed photos we see on this board only tell part of the story about any given garment. A really well-cut jacket should allow freedom of movement.
Surely this means a bit of extra material creating folds here and there while in a resting position.