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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 106

post #1576 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by EFV View Post

Maybe try a cavalry twill?

 

That's what I was going to suggest.  

 

Personally, I couldn't see myself ever bespeaking anything cotton.  After 10 min, it's all a wrinkled mess....so what's the point?

post #1577 of 1722
Well, there's moleskin and corduroy.
post #1578 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I've got a suit made in the 290 gram fox flannel. It's not terrible, but it's a less than optimal choice for trousers. In my experience all flannel has some give to it over time, but it's more pronounced and happens faster in the 290 and as a result ive ended up with pants that don't hold their shape as much as I'd like.

Such a lot of give with flannel, its SOP to make up flannel suits rather tight to compensate for the stretch, in many ways modern fits are a little incongruous with the cloth. Dormeuil puts mohair in some of there flannels, I think it really helps them keep shape.
post #1579 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

. Dormeuil puts mohair in some of there flannels, I think it really helps them keep shape.

Is that the British collection? There is a cloth in that collection with a donegal affect that I was just trying to get a sample of. Looks nice.
post #1580 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Murlsquirl View Post
 

 

That's what I was going to suggest.  

 

Personally, I couldn't see myself ever bespeaking anything cotton.  After 10 min, it's all a wrinkled mess....so what's the point?

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I've got a suit made in the 290 gram fox flannel. It's not terrible, but it's a less than optimal choice for trousers. In my experience all flannel has some give to it over time, but it's more pronounced and happens faster in the 290 and as a result ive ended up with pants that don't hold their shape as much as I'd like.

 

Lighter flannel doesnt seem to have raving reviews in the thread. Not personally considered cavalry twill? anymore on that. I was thinking maybe a medium weight crispaire(h&s fresco but less harsh), despite connotations that its a bit more formal. 

My own query is would the slightlier heavier weight compensate for the supposed airiness of it. At this point in time I am not a big fan of heavier/thicker cloth, much prefer cooler/breathable things despite living in N.EU. What appeals to me about the crispaire is it will hold its line/shape and the plain weave has a lot of depth to it

post #1581 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post
 

 

 

 

Lighter flannel doesnt seem to have raving reviews in the thread. Not personally considered cavalry twill? anymore on that. I was thinking maybe a medium weight crispaire(h&s fresco but less harsh), despite connotations that its a bit more formal. 

My own query is would the slightlier heavier weight compensate for the supposed airiness of it. At this point in time I am not a big fan of heavier/thicker cloth, much prefer cooler/breathable things despite living in N.EU. What appeals to me about the crispaire is it will hold its line/shape and the plain weave has a lot of depth to it


One anecdote does not constitute data, but my experience with Fox's 290gm flannel has been positive. After two summer seasons, mine still have no evidence of losing shape. Same with the Queen's Award bunch.

 

A good cavalry twill will always look sharp and will wear like iron.

post #1582 of 1722
^ Good to hear positive remarks about the Queen's Award flannels from Fox. I ordered some swatches and really like the colors and am considering them for next spring/summer for trousers.
post #1583 of 1722

My first ever basted fitting. Quite pleased with my choice of cloth (Holland & Sherry 13oz worsted) and black lining.

 

Shirt is to be taken in at the wrist (already pinned in the photo). but otherwise pleased how they came out (I also ordered a steely blue one at the same time).

 

Jacket sleeve to be shortened, padding to be "chipped" from the shoulder and a few tucks here and there.

 

Trousers to be taken in slightly at the waist and half inch taken off the length but otherwise fine.

 

Looking forward to my next fitting in 4 weeks time.

 

 

post #1584 of 1722
Who is the tailor?
post #1585 of 1722

Henry Herbert - Lamb's Conduit Passage, London.

post #1586 of 1722

@Steven Cash, would you like feedback on that fit, or are you just happy to show work in progress?  Don't want to critique if you're happy with what you've got. 

post #1587 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

@Steven Cash, would you like feedback on that fit, or are you just happy to show work in progress?  Don't want to critique if you're happy with what you've got. 


​Feedback is always welcomed. It is of course a work in progress but if you have any suggestions that I didn't cover in my post please go ahead.

post #1588 of 1722

I'm by no means an expert nor yet a tailor, but if it were me, the three issues I'd want addressed based on those pics would be:

 

--Sleeve rotation.  Your sleeve looks like it needs to be rotated forward to hang cleanly.  I'm not sure that reducing shoulder padding will help with this.

--Trouser length.  While preferences for the amount of break in the trouser vary, the slim leg openings that you have on those are suited to much less break than you're currently showing.  Otherwise, they "stack" as yours are doing. 

--Back.  Even from the side-on shot in the second photo, it appears that there's rippling all across the back.  A bespoke garment ought to have a "clean" back with minimal rippling or folding. 

post #1589 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by heldentenor View Post
 

I'm by no means an expert nor yet a tailor, but if it were me, the three issues I'd want addressed based on those pics would be:

 

--Sleeve rotation.  Your sleeve looks like it needs to be rotated forward to hang cleanly.  I'm not sure that reducing shoulder padding will help with this.

--Trouser length.  While preferences for the amount of break in the trouser vary, the slim leg openings that you have on those are suited to much less break than you're currently showing.  Otherwise, they "stack" as yours are doing. 

--Back.  Even from the side-on shot in the second photo, it appears that there's rippling all across the back.  A bespoke garment ought to have a "clean" back with minimal rippling or folding. 

Interesting and constructive comments.

 

--I certainly agree with the trousers and I have been advised that this will be corrected for my next fitting.

--The back I have left entirely to my tailor as I have not seen it from the back. The jacket is pinned in those pictures so that will hopefully account for the rippling you can see - I will address this at my next fitting.

--The sleeve is an interesting point - again I will address this at my next fitting.

 

Thank you for taking the time. :fonz:

post #1590 of 1722
I'll reserve my judgment for the next fitting. As they say, the first fitting is for the tailor, and is largely about balance.

Is Henry himself a tailor (or is he more like Luca / Mariano Rubinacci, who measure and communicate with the tailor)? Do you know if he offers "true" bespoke, or is it more of a MTM service? In-shop, or "offshore" bespoke? Just curious.
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