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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 105

post #1561 of 1727
Interesting to hear. I've always got mine on the inside, so I have the option of going braceless. I suppose if I ever got fishback trousers, could make sense to try it your way.
post #1562 of 1727
That waistband: the American company Oxxford still cuts a waist like this, but theirs is a hybrid. The band is separate on the front and has a Hollywood look at the back.
post #1563 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

Interesting to hear. I've always got mine on the inside, so I have the option of going braceless. I suppose if I ever got fishback trousers, could make sense to try it your way.


Why would having buttons on the outside of the rear waistband preclude you from not wearing braces (apart from having your trousers fall down)?

post #1564 of 1727

The inimitable Francis Bown makes a characteristically pertinent point:

 

Quote:
 The positioning of such buttons also requires thought.  I stipulate that they should be on the outside of the trousers at the front, but on the inside at the back – so that when I drive the Royce without my jacket they will not make impressions in the leather.

 

http://www.bownsbespoke.com/albertthurston.htm

post #1565 of 1727

Hi all,


this is our ongoing bespoke project for a customer in Philadelphia.
He is looking for a small, customized, leather attache case just for his phone, other electronic and 8"x10" documents in size only. He doesn't like carrying a large attache case, like these:

 

 

 

 

he wants it slim, no more than 3" when closed, and approx 12"1/2 x 9"1/2. It's for everyday use.

 

 

Sounds strange for us but he told us that it took many hours of searching and cross searches to find a custom attache case provider. The only company he found actually makes custom gun cases but 'could try' to make an attache case for him.

 

 

Here in Italy, attache cases were used a lot in 90s and now are outdated, vintage.
Some high fashion brands still do that but for how many money you can pay their bags, you can't have what you desire: a bespoke project.

 

 

 

We started this project from the structure, the wood case.

 

Does he need a lightweight bag or a strong and durable, even at the expense of weight?
Is he going to carry in specific and professional electronic devices that should be absolutely protected from shocks or 'normal and common' devices ?
We opted for the Masonite wood, because it is a bit more strong than plywood.

 

 

 

 

Scratches of leather has been sent to the customer so he was able to see it by real, touch and feel the leather under his fingertips.


After the leather has been choosed we could start covering the case.

 

 

 

 

In the meantime the next critical point to discuss was about hardware and closures.
Case is small, can we find an handle and closures suitable for a briefcase like that?
Luckly in the many typical and historical small Italian craftsmen's shops you can find everything :-)

 

 

 

Last step to discuss with customer was about the layout of the lid.
He wants a pocket for his big smartphone, another pocket for money, an ID holder, a pen holder, a file folder, ..... ehy! stop please, it's enough! Don't forget the small size of the case! :-)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now it's all in the hands of our craftsman Amedeo, a creative mind that is putting together all these features and ideas.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you liked this post I'll keep you updated and will post the final result as soon as it is ready.

 

Marco

post #1566 of 1727

What are peoples opinions on standalone trousers, in terms of their cloth weight/type.

I don't have a massive wardrobe so trying to be versatile with pieces I do get. I'm thinking a chino/trouser cross over. I'm set on the colour which will be a mid greyish (Don't fancy tan/beige, as my wardrobe is darker colours for now, I have business suits in other tones of grey). The factor that I guess will distinguish it as a bit more casual will be the cloth choice.

Cotton/wool mix be good? as opposed to just cotton. I want to keep the trouser weighting akin to bnusiness suiting so 9-11oz max. Any recommendations on cloth bunches/cloth composition is appreciated

 

post #1567 of 1727

I think if you want chinos, buy chinos. Cotton trousers never look dressy, in my opinion.

 

Try a lightweight flannel, such as Fox's Queen's Award bunch. Lots of vibrant colors, but plenty of versatile greys, too.

post #1568 of 1727

Exactly, especially if going full on bespoke...it's like convertible cuffs on a shirt. Never a good choice

post #1569 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post

What are peoples opinions on standalone trousers, in terms of their cloth weight/type.


I don't have a massive wardrobe so trying to be versatile with pieces I do get. I'm thinking a chino/trouser cross over. I'm set on the colour which will be a mid greyish (Don't fancy tan/beige, as my wardrobe is darker colours for now, I have business suits in other tones of grey). The factor that I guess will distinguish it as a bit more casual will be the cloth choice.


Cotton/wool mix be good? as opposed to just cotton. I want to keep the trouser weighting akin to bnusiness suiting so 9-11oz max. Any recommendations on cloth bunches/cloth composition is appreciated


 

In general, I'd err on the heavier side with trousers. Heavy trousers are less uncomfortable in warm weather than a heavy jacket, and keep your legs a bit warmer in the winter if you are really trying to get something for all seasons. I'd give you the normal caveat that you really are better off with more seasonal choices. If you want something that can double as a chino, I'd stick with cotton. I don't really care for grey cotton trousers (grey to me screams wool), but I'd go with a cotton in the 11-12 ounce range. If you decide to go seasonal down the line, you can still get some use out of good cotton trousers in a medium weight. Wool / linen is great for summer (pure linen is fine if you don't mind the wrinkles and maintenance) but not good in cold weather. Flannel is great for dressier odd trousers in winter and corduroy / moleskin for more casual ones, but neither is great in warmer weather.
post #1570 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

I think if you want chinos, buy chinos. Cotton trousers never look dressy, in my opinion.

Try a lightweight flannel, such as Fox's Queen's Award bunch. Lots of vibrant colors, but plenty of versatile greys, too.

Personally, I've had bad experience with durability with lighter flannel (and I hate flannel in the summer, even though historically people wore it (but they also wore heavy cloth in the summer)), which may not be good for a workhorse trouser. I also find flannel tends to wear hot, even in lighter weights, but YMMV.

I think cotton trousers can be fine as long as you're not trying to make them work with something like a blazer, white shirt, and grey pants with black shoes in the evening. Perfectly fine with a linen sport coat or corduroy jacket.
post #1571 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by YourMadeInItaly View Post

Hi all,


this is our ongoing bespoke project for a customer in Philadelphia.

.....

If you liked this post I'll keep you updated and will post the final result as soon as it is ready.

Marco

Looks great. Please keep us informed
post #1572 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by dng992 View Post

What are peoples opinions on standalone trousers, in terms of their cloth weight/type.


I don't have a massive wardrobe so trying to be versatile with pieces I do get. I'm thinking a chino/trouser cross over. I'm set on the colour which will be a mid greyish (Don't fancy tan/beige, as my wardrobe is darker colours for now, I have business suits in other tones of grey). The factor that I guess will distinguish it as a bit more casual will be the cloth choice.


Cotton/wool mix be good? as opposed to just cotton. I want to keep the trouser weighting akin to bnusiness suiting so 9-11oz max. Any recommendations on cloth bunches/cloth composition is appreciated


 

As others have mentioned, why not go with a durable midweight mid-grey flannel (like JJ Minnis, for example)? You'll get a ton of use out of them. They will look great. They will be very versatile. It's the perfect project for a first pair of bespoke trousers.
post #1573 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by archibaldleach View Post


Personally, I've had bad experience with durability with lighter flannel (and I hate flannel in the summer, even though historically people wore it (but they also wore heavy cloth in the summer)), which may not be good for a workhorse trouser. I also find flannel tends to wear hot, even in lighter weights, but YMMV.

 

I've worn my trousers made from the Fox flannel I mentioned above all summer here in the Bay Area. That's why I recommend that particular bunch. Also, so far, so issues with durability, either. But what is true for me may very well not be true for others.

post #1574 of 1727
Maybe try a cavalry twill?
post #1575 of 1727
I've got a suit made in the 290 gram fox flannel. It's not terrible, but it's a less than optimal choice for trousers. In my experience all flannel has some give to it over time, but it's more pronounced and happens faster in the 290 and as a result ive ended up with pants that don't hold their shape as much as I'd like.
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