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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 104

post #1546 of 1727

Interesting. Thanks for the knowledge.

post #1547 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by ntempleman View Post

I believe they referred to it as a "grown on" waistband.


Ah. I hadn't heard it called that, but it does describe it well.

post #1548 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

Some photos from my appointment today with Steed in San Francisco. This was a fitting for a two-piece suit made up from the NMWA x Minnis 656 houndstooth flannel. The trousers have no waistband and the jacket is single-breasted with a little more roping in the shoulder than Steed usually does.






Overal, it looked and felt really good. The left trouser leg needs to be shortened slightly, but the jacket didn't need much tweaking (but did need some, of course). This was the first time I'd actually felt the Minnis 656 flannel and what lovely cloth it is! I'm looking forward to getting this suit in a few months.

No vest, and vhat about the shooting jacket?
post #1549 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


No vest, and vhat about the shooting jacket?


No vest with this suit. The shooting jacket is still being made but it is taking quite a while. I last had a fitting at the end of May. I hope I'll have it by the end of the year. Perhaps sooner.

post #1550 of 1727
For information on the waistband check out Steed's Instagram (Steedtailors i believe) or bespokewrinkles.com, which, not coincidentally, exhibits Steed's work.

It's a really beautiful look, to be sure.
post #1551 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post


No vest with this suit. The shooting jacket is still being made but it is taking quite a while. I last had a fitting at the end of May. I hope I'll have it by the end of the year. Perhaps sooner.

But your negligée will show if you unbutton or take off your jacket.
post #1552 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by WhereNext View Post

Would you mind explaining what this means in practice? And is this a stylistic choice, a comfort choice, a combination, something else....? Thanks!
in teh states
it is commonly called a
hollywood waist/
hollywood waist band
(google it)
and is more commonly
found in womenswear

it used to be
moar common for
menswear in the past
sometimes with
a half waistband
in the front

i bought pants
from banana republic
in the late 80's
early 90's
(when they still
had the faux safari
vibe in the SF store)
that had this type
of waist

i also have a few
bespoke from ambrosi
and one from huntsman
that have this waistband
post #1553 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

For information on the waistband check out Steed's Instagram (Steedtailors i believe) or bespokewrinkles.com, which, not coincidentally, exhibits Steed's work.

It's a really beautiful look, to be sure.

 

That was the Instagram feed I linked to.

post #1554 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post


But your negligée will show if you unbutton or take off your jacket.


Sometimes your sense of humor escapes me. I don't get it.

post #1555 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post


Sometimes your sense of humor escapes me. I don't get it.

old fashioned way of looking at clothes, shirts were once seen as negligée and needed covering up, save for the collar and cuffs.
post #1556 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post

That was the Instagram feed I linked to.

To be honest, I didn't even check the link, but great minds 👍
post #1557 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post


Sometimes your sense of humor escapes me. I don't get it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by David Reeves View Post

old fashioned way of looking at clothes, shirts were once seen as negligée and needed covering up, save for the collar and cuffs.

Sorry, wasn't trying to come across as funny. I noticed they placed the suspender buttons on the outside of the pants which seems to give off a rustic vibe. I'm not sure what look you were going for but I thought a vest would help out. I think David summed it up. I'll refrain from commenting from here on out.
post #1558 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post



Sorry, wasn't trying to come across as funny. I noticed they placed the suspender buttons on the outside of the pants which seems to give off a rustic vibe. I'm not sure what look you were going for but I thought a vest would help out. I think David summed it up. I'll refrain from commenting from here on out.


No problem, I just didn't understand your comment. Please do not refrain from commenting on that account.

 

I noticed that the suspender buttons were outside the trousers. I have no expectation at all that they will remain so, except for the rear pair, which I specify must sewn on the outside. To date, I haven't bothered to attached braces to trousers at a fitting, but that is why the buttons were there. The finished items will have the front bottoms inside the waistband.

 

Having said that, I do have a couple of pairs of trousers where the tailor misunderstood my instructions and sewed all the suspender buttons on the outside. It doesn't bother me at all.

post #1559 of 1727
^ Why the rear buttons on the outside? Any reason for that, or just personal preference?
post #1560 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by dan'l View Post

^ Why the rear buttons on the outside? Any reason for that, or just personal preference?

Well, both, I suppose. It's one of those things you learn as you go. I find buttons sewn on the inside of the rear of the waistband to be uncomfortable, especially for long periods. So it has become my preference to have them sewn on the outside. Both tailors that I use looked at me quizzically when I requested it. But one of the pleasures of bespoke is that it wasn't really a request. And it is not all that uncommon, either, as it turns out.

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