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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 97

post #1441 of 1727
2nd fitting for two 2-button suits with Piero Cisternino in Florence. Both are lightweight Scabal tick weaves and the construction of the suits is lightweight as well.

Having a bit more waist suppression done and, clearly, having the sleeves narrowed. Going for 3rd fitting soon.

Light blue-grey:



Light-mid blue:




Sartoria Cisternino:


Edited by aph999 - 9/6/16 at 11:40pm
post #1442 of 1727
Ha, I appreciate your thoughts on my peacoat process! To @sprout2 I can reveal that I chose to go bespoke out of comfort and, admittedly, also the freedom to choose details. I can also comfort you that my tailor managed to discourage me from the rounded yoke today arguing that it would interfere with the biased shoulder seem he prefers to make (as can be seen from the photo he tried to draw it in chalk and I tend to agree). And as he argued: "I could do a straight shoulder seem instead, but then it would look like *f'cking OTR so I'd really prefer not to." I of course respected that, and we instead agreed that he will make a deep, biased shoulder seem that will meet the seem of the sleeves nicely.

Apart from that we agreed on the length and the number of buttons (5 rows) that will run as close to parallel as possible with the ability to button it all the way up. Size of collar is to be agreed on later. And the sleeves... Didn't even get to discuss them. Anyway, here's a few crappy photos from today:



post #1443 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by aph999 View Post

2nd fitting for two 2-button suits with Piero Cisternino in Florence. Both are lightweight Scabal tick weaves and the construction of the suits is lightweight as well. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Having a bit more waist suppression done and, clearly, having the sleeves narrowed. Going for 3rd fitting soon.

Light blue-grey:



Light-mid blue:


Nice. Is that your first commission from him?

Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Ha, I appreciate your thoughts on my peacoat process! To @sprout2 I can reveal that I chose to go bespoke out of comfort and, admittedly, also the freedom to choose details. I can also comfort you that my tailor managed to discourage me from the rounded yoke today arguing that it would interfere with the biased shoulder seem he prefers to make (as can be seen from the photo he tried to draw it in chalk and I tend to agree). And as he argued: "I could do a straight shoulder seem instead, but then it would look like *f'cking OTR so I'd really prefer not to." I of course respected that, and we instead agreed that he will make a deep, biased shoulder seem that will meet the seem of the sleeves nicely. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Apart from that we agreed on the length and the number of buttons (5 rows) that will run as close to parallel as possible with the ability to button it all the way up. Size of collar is to be agreed on later. And the sleeves... Didn't even get to discuss them. Anyway, here's a few crappy photos from today:




I thought RTW would be better for this, but your project makes for a nice discussion on this thread. Thanks for sharing it.
post #1444 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Nice. Is that your first commission from him?

It is; he and his brother are very nice and they treat me like family when I visit. He did a great job giving the jackets structure with even the lightest of canvas, and overall the quality of work is very good, but the sleeve width is an issue for me (obviously too wide) and he didn't give me the lapel width and height that I had originally requested. I think he resorted to his classical Florentine style, which at the end of the day is still appealing.

Assuming he has corrected the sleeve width, I think I'll be very happy with his work.

His work ethic is admirable; even late at night, when I'm strolling the cobblestone streets of Florence and pass his shop, I see him hard at work tailoring at his table. The whole experience is a chapter out of the old school.
Edited by aph999 - 9/7/16 at 12:05am
post #1445 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by taffy View Post
 

Is this in Bijan's shop?

 

Took me a while to realise that you were quoting my post from well over a year ago. Funnily enough, I am wearing that very suit today.
 
Yes, the photo was taken in Bijan's shop in O'Connell Street, Sydney.
 
These days Joe has his own atelier near The Rocks. Google "The Finery Company".
 
On another matter, Coccinella have just finished my Minnis flannel suit. Here's a snap of the jacket. I've just paid for the suit and should receive it some time in the next week or two.
 

 

post #1446 of 1727
  • @aph999, I liked the sleeve width, but the lapels could be wider imo.
post #1447 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post

[*] @aph999, I liked the sleeve width, but the lapels could be wider imo.


I agree on the lapel width. I had asked for a higher and wider lapel, similar to a Neapolitan style (even provided a photo as an example), but I think he defaulted to his Florentine style. My main objective at the next fitting is to ensure the sleeves are slimmed and tapered and the waist is a bit more narrowed via the front panels. From the back it looks fine.

We'll see how the finished suits come out.
post #1448 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by aph999 View Post


I agree on the lapel width. I had asked for a higher and wider lapel, similar to a Neapolitan style (even provided a photo as an example), but I think he defaulted to his Florentine style. My main objective at the next fitting is to ensure the sleeves are slimmed and tapered and the waist is a bit more narrowed via the front panels. From the back it looks fine.

We'll see how the finished suits come out.


Overall it seems nice to me. I've never seen Cisternino's work before. For sleeve width probably it's because the cloth is light so it's not getting a good sleeve shape. Personally i wouldn't slim down a lot, maybe a margin (worth it?)

For the collar however i think it's not an easy task to reshape the collar. I may be wrong but it's central to the construction. My suggestion would be to get this at it's. If you are happy overall with the suit then you will correct these small things with your next suit.

post #1449 of 1727
Quote:
Yes, the photo was taken in Bijan's shop in O'Connell Street, Sydney.

These days Joe has his own atelier near The Rocks. Google "The Finery Company".

On another matter, Coccinella have just finished my Minnis flannel suit. Here's a snap of the jacket. I've just paid for the suit and should receive it some time in the next week or two.


Did bijan oversee the fittings? Was joe working for bijan? How did you arrange fittings at his place?
Also, you can press the lapels to open lower. The sleeves look fine, I would just taper them at the wrist opening and leave them full at the elbows to prevent accordion creasing. Is the dummy padded up to your measurements, or is it just a stock dummy?
Edited by taffy - 9/7/16 at 3:01am
post #1450 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by taffy View Post


Did bijan oversee the fittings? Was joe working for bijan? How did you arrange fittings at his place?
Also, you can press the lapels to open lower. The sleeves look fine, I would just taper them at the wrist opening and leave them full at the elbows to prevent accordion creasing. Is the dummy padded up to your measurements, or is it just a stock dummy?


Joe's relationship with Bijan is obscure to me. Bijan was in another room (busy cutting I think), and was not involved in my B&T fitting.

 

As to your other feedback, I'm not sure to which suit you are referring - the B&T from last year, or my new Coccinella?

post #1451 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by taffy View Post

Did bijan oversee the fittings? Was joe working for bijan? How did you arrange fittings at his place?
Also, you can press the lapels to open lower. The sleeves look fine, I would just taper them at the wrist opening and leave them full at the elbows to prevent accordion creasing. Is the dummy padded up to your measurements, or is it just a stock dummy?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post


Joe's relationship with Bijan is obscure to me. Bijan was in another room (busy cutting I think), and was not involved in my B&T fitting.

As to your other feedback, I'm not sure to which suit you are referring - the B&T from last year, or my new Coccinella?

It's two different business Joe was using Bijan's shop while he was setting up his own premises. They are good friends.
post #1452 of 1727
post #1453 of 1727
Quote:
 
As to your other feedback, I'm not sure to which suit you are referring - the B&T from last year, or my new Coccinella?

 

I mistook alph999's post on lapels and sleeve to be yours.

Nevertheless, is the dummy in the brown/grey Minnis flannel made to your size? The lapels seem to buckle somewhat

post #1454 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post
 
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Ha, I appreciate your thoughts on my peacoat process! To @sprout2 I can reveal that I chose to go bespoke out of comfort and, admittedly, also the freedom to choose details. I can also comfort you that my tailor managed to discourage me from the rounded yoke today arguing that it would interfere with the biased shoulder seem he prefers to make (as can be seen from the photo he tried to draw it in chalk and I tend to agree). And as he argued: "I could do a straight shoulder seem instead, but then it would look like *f'cking OTR so I'd really prefer not to." I of course respected that, and we instead agreed that he will make a deep, biased shoulder seem that will meet the seem of the sleeves nicely.

Apart from that we agreed on the length and the number of buttons (5 rows) that will run as close to parallel as possible with the ability to button it all the way up. Size of collar is to be agreed on later. And the sleeves... Didn't even get to discuss them. Anyway, here's a few crappy photos from today:



 

 

 

 

Nick Wooster Peacoat, well I assumed the dark green is a peacoat, can't' see the full length

post #1455 of 1727
FWIW, that's a Crombie Great coat from their FW13 collection, if SKM wants to look it up. Lots of photos of Nick wearing it at New York Fashion Week that year.
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