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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 96

post #1426 of 1726
How long is this pea coat going to be?
post #1427 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

How long is this pea coat going to be?

Mid to lower thigh, but not really decided yet apart from above knee and below bum.
post #1428 of 1726
Feel like it's hard to say since I don't know what the final design will look like. I get the impression that you're not doing a regular peacoat, but something closer to what Simon had made through Taub?

IMO, cuffs would throw this a little more towards the "tailored" side of things. I associate them with polo coats, Guard coats, etc. A plain sleeve would look more casual. Maybe a strap cuff could add some detailing if you felt plain was too boring, but I don't know if the design would look right depending on the other details.

Prob depends a little on how you plan to wear it. With a longer length and worn with tailored trousers, cuffs could be OK (without really knowing the rest of the design). Personally, I think something in this design would look better with jeans, textured sweaters, etc. In that case, I think plain cuffs would be better.
post #1429 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Feel like it's hard to say since I don't know what the final design will look like. I get the impression that you're not doing a regular peacoat, but something closer to what Simon had made through Taub?

IMO, cuffs would throw this a little more towards the "tailored" side of things. I associate them with polo coats, Guard coats, etc. A plain sleeve would look more casual. Maybe a strap cuff could add some detailing if you felt plain was too boring, but I don't know if the design would look right depending on the other details.

Prob depends a little on how you plan to wear it. With a longer length and worn with tailored trousers, cuffs could be OK (without really knowing the rest of the design). Personally, I think something in this design would look better with jeans, textured sweaters, etc. In that case, I think plain cuffs would be better.

Great thoughts, thanks! The back will look quite like Taub's sketch above, but will add a yoke like this (only probably more narrow) which will meet the seem if the sleeves:



The design will be quite busy so I'm thinking I would need something other than plain cuffs to create balance. And I'm counting on using it for everyday casual wear to ride my bike in cold Scandinavia. Length wise probably something like this:

post #1430 of 1726
^ FWIW, I like the way it's worn there. If it's going to be worn more like "CM casual," I think it might do better with simpler details.
post #1431 of 1726
Bit of a side note, but I have a Buzz Rickson pea coat with a large collar like that, and while it looks cool flipped up in photos, it feels a bit costume-y in real life (to me anyway). If you think you'll want to wear the collar up, it might be good to get a smaller collar.

An example from this season's Mango lookbook (admittedly not the coolest brand, but it's the easiest example I can think of right now). Similar design, and with strap cuffs if you're interested in how that would look.

A smaller collar will look less aggressive flipped up. Less Dracula/ frilled lizard.

post #1432 of 1726
Very valid point about the size of the collar! I will have the fitting tomorrow and see what my tailor says about the cuffs. I guess in some cases that's the first thing you should do (like when I imagined having it lined with some kind of patterned silk to which my tailor replied: "Oh yeah, silk looks very nice but it's as durable as sh*t. And you'll be drowning in sweat when you ride your bike" – problem solved).
post #1433 of 1726
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Bit of a side note, but I have a Buzz Rickson pea coat with a large collar like that, and while it looks cool flipped up in photos, it feels a bit costume-y in real life (to me anyway). If you think you'll want to wear the collar up, it might be good to get a smaller collar.

I have the same coat and feel the same way. I really like the collar up in pictures...




Collar Down (Click to show)

But iRL it feels kind like...
post #1434 of 1726
I think if you position yourself correctly, you can give someone better TV reception with that collar up.
post #1435 of 1726
The frilled-lizard-look could scare off would-be attackers, though:



FWIW, I'd personally prefer strap cuffs. I had a semi-formal overcoat made last year and opted for strap cuffs, but they are a bit angled (or rather trapezoid-shaped), so they look more interesting than the typical strapped cuffs, at least in my opinion.
post #1436 of 1726
Strap cuffs are pretty standard on utilitarian jackets e.g. duffle coats, trench coats, etc. I don't think it'd look out of place on a pea coat. Turn back cuffs might be a bit much but not ostentatious. Hidden buttons would be cool.
post #1437 of 1726
Quote:
 

First visit and all fittings are done in Sydney by @incontro, who is B&T's agent in Australia:

 

 

 

 

Is this in Bijan's shop?

post #1438 of 1726

@S K M  What was the original impetus for going bespoke on the peacoat?

post #1439 of 1726
The idea of a bespoke peacoat makes me nervous. So many options. I think that old Coco Chanel adage about removing one item of clothing before walking out the door might be helpful. On one hand, you want something unique. On the other hand, you run the risk of one additional detail ruining the whole of it.
post #1440 of 1726

He has already long since gilded the lily. Printed silk lining (now nixed), back yoke, hidden buttons, some kind of cuff detail. We are one poacher's pocket away from full cosplay. At least his tailor had the sense to discourage him from the silk, something I tried and failed to do at the beginning.

The classic mistake of being spoiled for choice of details and indulging in all of them. Most people have no need of a peacoat, let alone a custom made one. This is for riding a bicycle, of all things.Give me all peacoat, no details.

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