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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 94

post #1396 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

So, yesterday I finally started up my project of a bespoke peacoat:



My tailor was very enthusiastic about it, and especially the below limited edition cloth from Fox I brought, of which his assessment was: "This is so damn cool."



There are still some undecided issues which we will return to on the first fitting that I expect to have in two weeks time smile.gif

Can't wait to see pictures from the first fitting!

post #1397 of 1727

I don't have a single bespoke garment, but I still read this thread religiously to live vicariously through you all. Thanks for the inspiration. I hope to be able to post one of my own commissions here one day.

post #1398 of 1727

Agreed - a great resource for us all

post #1399 of 1727

Thought I would cross-post these in-the-wild pics of the Coccinella suit I had made in Osaka earlier this year.

 

 

 

Fabric is Draper 2421, 7 1/2oz wool/silk/linen, very light and summery. I had the jacket buggy-lined and the pants were left unlined for Sydney summers.

 

I'm very happy with the result. In fact I have another commission on the way - a two-piece winter suit in the fabled Minnis 0656 houndstooth flannel.

 

The new suit will have a slightly longer jacket with slightly lower buttoning point; slightly wider shoulders and slightly fuller chest to minimise lapel bowing; slightly more full-cut trousers. It will be fully lined and feature a high waist with fishtail back, buttons for braces, no belt loops.

 

I'm trusting that the Coccinella guys (Chujo and son) can nail this one down on the basis of measurements already taken. A bit of a risk given no opportunity for fittings. We'll see how it turns out.

post #1400 of 1727

The final result of my Sharkskin suit from Kotaro. It turned out great, I really like that the look is more rigid and the actual feel is very light.

 


I put it on almost directly after delivery so therefore some of the wrinkles are still apparent (I did my best by turning the bathroom into a sauna to get them out). 

 

Kind regards,

 

Oliver

post #1401 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannefalk View Post

I did my best by turning the bathroom into a sauna to get them out). 

Jeffery D wept
post #1402 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by TRINI View Post
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannefalk View Post

I did my best by turning the bathroom into a sauna to get them out). 

Jeffery D wept


Have to admit I did as well! Had to to hold back on saying anything and just let it be

post #1403 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Thought I would cross-post these in-the-wild pics of the Coccinella suit I had made in Osaka earlier this year.







Fabric is Draper 2421, 7 1/2oz wool/silk/linen, very light and summery. I had the jacket buggy-lined and the pants were left unlined for Sydney summers.

I'm very happy with the result. In fact I have another commission on the way - a two-piece winter suit in the fabled Minnis 0656 houndstooth flannel.

The new suit will have a slightly longer jacket with slightly lower buttoning point; slightly wider shoulders and slightly fuller chest to minimise lapel bowing; slightly more full-cut trousers.

Let's hope it will be slightly better then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

I'm trusting that the Coccinella guys (Chujo and son) can nail this one down on the basis of measurements already taken. A bit of a risk given no opportunity for fittings. We'll see how it turns out.

Indeed it is. I would personally not trust any tailor to "nail it" for a commission with no fittings if he didn't get the balance right on the first, but maybe that's just me. But fingers crossed it will at least improve.
post #1404 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannefalk View Post

The final result of my Sharkskin suit from Kotaro. It turned out great, I really like that the look is more rigid and the actual feel is very light.





I put it on almost directly after delivery so therefore some of the wrinkles are still apparent (I did my best by turning the bathroom into a sauna to get them out). 

Kind regards,

Oliver

Sorry, but I think it would be a shame to spoil here – looking great, Sir! biggrin.gif
post #1405 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Despos View Post
 


Have to admit I did as well! Had to to hold back on saying anything and just let it be


Explanation? 

post #1406 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dannefalk View Post
 


Explanation? 

There is extensive iron work in a bespoke suit which is used to shape the fabric to the wearer's body. When you steam, or expose the garment to a steamy environment, you undo some of that work. Dont steam your suits, jackets, or trousers. Press them, or have them pressed by a professional.

post #1407 of 1727

Here is the gist of it

Quote:
 A steamer will undo all the shaping that was created when the suit was made, and steaming a suit can also make problems appear such as puckering and blown seams, breaking sleeves etc. I know a lot of people enjoy the ease of a steamer or hanging a suit in the bathroom to get rid of wrinkles, but it is really a very bad idea.

Here is the link for more info

 

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2008/11/vital-importance-of-pressing.html

post #1408 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by bdavro23 View Post
 

There is extensive iron work in a bespoke suit which is used to shape the fabric to the wearer's body. When you steam, or expose the garment to a steamy environment, you undo some of that work. Dont steam your suits, jackets, or trousers. Press them, or have them pressed by a professional.


Kind of figured it was about that. Didn't get the Jeffery part though. I'm well aware of this. Sadly there are few professional tailors doing this sort of work on other tailors work in Stockholm, just your local dry cleaner and they tend to mess things up quite bad. :confused: 

 

Kind regards,

 

Oliver

post #1409 of 1727

Jefferyd is the author/owner of Made by Hand website and is a designer/tailor at Hickey Freeman. 

 

Taking a suit out of the box, it's better to do nothing. Wrinkles will settle out overnight, especially if the jacket is well made from forgiving cloth.

Consistently hear this from clients who pack suits and travel  frequently.  

 

Dry cleaners won't press a jacket in the same way a tailor would.

post #1410 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by Coxsackie View Post

Thought I would cross-post these in-the-wild pics of the Coccinella suit I had made in Osaka earlier this year.







Fabric is Draper 2421, 7 1/2oz wool/silk/linen, very light and summery. I had the jacket buggy-lined and the pants were left unlined for Sydney summers.

I'm very happy with the result. In fact I have another commission on the way - a two-piece winter suit in the fabled Minnis 0656 houndstooth flannel.

The new suit will have a slightly longer jacket with slightly lower buttoning point; slightly wider shoulders and slightly fuller chest to minimise lapel bowing; slightly more full-cut trousers. It will be fully lined and feature a high waist with fishtail back, buttons for braces, no belt loops.

I'm trusting that the Coccinella guys (Chujo and son) can nail this one down on the basis of measurements already taken. A bit of a risk given no opportunity for fittings. We'll see how it turns out.

love this
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