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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 85

post #1261 of 1727
Overcoat made in vicuña?
post #1262 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Overcoat made in vicuña?

Yes, fitting in October.
post #1263 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by EliodA View Post

Why?

I feel like pinstripes are about as formal as it gets for business. Adding a button hole in the middle of the lapel brings it down a notch. But I guess if your ordering a vicuna overcoat you're probably The Boss, The Sarge, and The Capt'n Crunch Dawg so it probably doesn't matter.
post #1264 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jolinlovesjunya View Post


Thanks for your kind words. I believe @kolecho will organize a new run. So please feel free to check with him. I highly recommend Rangoon, in every colors.

For the overcoat fabric, this is just a "mock up" fitting garment. French would call it "Toile”. The actual fabric will be a navy vicuna length. Steed was kind enough to provide a fitting with this waste fabric, given the delicacy of vicuna fabric. Matthew told me it is actually a very old piece under the board at Steed. I like how it turns out and may ask them to finish it off as well. Hate to see this tweed piece to be wasted!

 

Its a nice tweed

post #1265 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by lordsuperb View Post

I feel like pinstripes are about as formal as it gets for business. Adding a button hole in the middle of the lapel brings it down a notch. But I guess if your ordering a vicuna overcoat you're probably The Boss, The Sarge, and The Capt'n Crunch Dawg so it probably doesn't matter.

Lol I've never thought about 3r2 will bring down the formality. But I do see your point - it draws attention to a rather neat pattern, especially on the lapel. In fact I didn't specify the configuration to my tailor. I just leave the details to them, especially my Neapolitean tailors. The fabric is hopsack anyways, maybe I will do only 2 buttons for a finer striped fabrics next time for a more business/formal look.
post #1266 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jolinlovesjunya View Post

Lol I've never thought about 3r2 will bring down the formality. But I do see your point - it draws attention to a rather business pattern. In fact I didn't siecify the configuration to my tailor. I just leave the details to them, especially my Neapolitean tailors. The fabric is hopsack anyways, maybe I will do only 2 buttons for a finer striped fabrics next time for a more business/formal look.

You don't see many 3r2 pinstripe/ chalkstripe suits nowadays, but that might be a regional thing. Most striped suits I see are from the UK, where people don't request 3r2s as much. FWIW, Esquire -- an American magazine -- had drawings of them in the 1930s.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Optimized by JPEGmini 3.11.4.4 0xeae98b0b

I assume Brooks made them with a 3r2 configuration in the '30s - '60s, but don't know for sure. Have a history of Brooks Bros. book at home I can flip through later.

I don't think there's anything wrong with a lapel buttonhole on a pinstripe either, although maybe lordsuperb is just talking about a personal preference.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





post #1267 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jolinlovesjunya View Post

Lol I've never thought about 3r2 will bring down the formality. But I do see your point - it draws attention to a rather neat pattern. In fact I didn't specify the configuration to my tailor. I just leave the details to them, especially my Neapolitean tailors. The fabric is hopsack anyways, maybe I will do only 2 buttons for a finer striped fabrics next time for a more business/formal look.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sprout2 View Post

Its a nice tweed

I probably won't pick this color myself. But the fitting stage helped me better visualize the result. I like it a lot. Matthew will check to see if there's enough leftover fabric for turn back cuffs and collars. Let's hope there is.
post #1268 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

You don't see many 3r2 pinstripe/ chalkstripe suits nowadays, but that might be a regional thing. Most striped suits I see are from the UK, where people don't request 3r2s as much. FWIW, Esquire -- an American magazine -- had drawings of them in the 1930s.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Optimized by JPEGmini 3.11.4.4 0xeae98b0b

I don't think there's anything wrong with a boutonniere hole on a pinstripe either, although maybe lordsuperb is just talking about a personal preference.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






The first illustration showing a combination of cream/off white waistcoat with the pinstripe suit. It looks good to me. I want to add a third piece to this suit and a different color/texture would be a good idea. Thanks to you for the inspiration!
post #1269 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jolinlovesjunya View Post

.....Steed was kind enough to provide a fitting with this waste fabric, given the delicacy of vicuna fabric. Matthew told me it is actually a very old piece under the board at Steed. I like how it turns out and may ask them to finish it off as well. Hate to see this tweed piece to be wasted!
No kidding - looks great!
post #1270 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

No kidding - looks great!

I really hope they have enough fabric left. :-)
post #1271 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by jolinlovesjunya View Post

I really hope they have enough fabric left. :-)

But don't you have all the fabric you need in the mock-up he made?
post #1272 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

But don't you have all the fabric you need in the mock-up he made?

I do not have the fabric. It is a very old piece under the board at Steed. The initial plan was not to finish the tweed coat. There may not be enough left for the collar and cuffs etc.
post #1273 of 1727
Oic - got it. Good luck; certainly worth it! If not, just have him add velvet collar and cuffs.
post #1274 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

Oic - got it. Good luck; certainly worth it! If not, just have him add velvet collar and cuffs.

Thanks, what color of velvet collar would you use? I was thinking of dark chocolate brown..
post #1275 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTukker View Post

Oic - got it. Good luck; certainly worth it! If not, just have him add velvet collar and cuffs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jolinlovesjunya View Post

Thanks, what color of velvet collar would you use? I was thinking of dark chocolate brown..

agreed.
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