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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 74

post #1096 of 1722
My newest ongoing bespoke project is that I've decided to switch from huntsman to Davide Taub at Gieves. Meeting with him next month. Not sure if first project will be a double-breasted summer suit with high roping or a tweed or flannel suit with set in shoulders. Whichever isn't the first will likely be the second. They are both pretty awesome.



post #1097 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andy57 View Post
 

A fitting for a "shooting jacket" with Steed today in London:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

Andy are you planning to actually shoot in it? I am curious as I may have one made at some point, and I wanted to know which type of back pleat would work the best. My original thoughts were for a bi-swing but I like the center pleat better from a visual standpoint. Was this a preference or recommendation from Steed/yourself?

 

As for the shoulder patch it really doesn't do much (in terms of shooting or aesthetically). I would recommend a microfiber lining in the breast pocket for your shooting glasses if you do plan to shoot in it.

 

DL-

post #1098 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

My newest ongoing bespoke project is that I've decided to switch from huntsman to Davide Taub at Gieves. Meeting with him next month. Not sure if first project will be a double-breasted summer suit with high roping or a tweed or flannel suit with set in shoulders. Whichever isn't the first will likely be the second. They are both pretty awesome.




Umm can we see your huntsman?!?!?!?!
post #1099 of 1722
^ sure. I think some of them are on the huntsman thread but I will take pics next wear.
post #1100 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

My newest ongoing bespoke project is that I've decided to switch from huntsman to Davide Taub at Gieves. Meeting with him next month. Not sure if first project will be a double-breasted summer suit with high roping or a tweed or flannel suit with set in shoulders. Whichever isn't the first will likely be the second. They are both pretty awesome.

I love Taub's work. In interviews, he's expressed admiration for designers such as Rick Owens, which is unusual for guys in the world of classic tailoring. There are some images of really interesting, slightly more avant garde coats on his blog.

Are you meeting him in London or NYC?

Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post

I would recommend a microfiber lining in the breast pocket for your shooting glasses if you do plan to shoot in it.

I've thought about getting a microfiber pocket in sport coats for sunglasses, but am unsure how the material reacts to dry cleaning. Do you happen to know?
post #1101 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I have a friend in San Francisco who's a restaurateur and hunter. He wears shooting jackets for sport, but also for casual use. I don't know if the shooting patch would suit Andy, but I also don't think they're necessarily costumey either.
It would be tough to call it costumey if your friend actually hunts
post #1102 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

It would be tough to call it costumey if your friend actually hunts

Well it's not like anyone knows he hunts when they just see him in the city.

Brands like Ralph Lauren put shooting patches on their ready-to-wear garments all the time. I doubt many of their customers are hunters.

TBH, when I think of "costumey," I think of people trying to stay historically accurate to AA illustrations. I don't think of things like shooting patches, which have been used in ready-to-wear design for decades. Not that AA illustrations can't also be great on their own, but a rigid adherence to authenticity produces its own "costumey" connotations in 2016.
post #1103 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I love Taub's work. In interviews, he's expressed admiration for designers such as Rick Owens, which is unusual for guys in the world of classic tailoring. There are some images of really interesting, slightly more avant garde coats on his blog.

Are you meeting him in London or NYC?
I've thought about getting a microfiber pocket in sport coats for sunglasses, but am unsure how the material reacts to dry cleaning. Do you happen to know?

Quoted the wrong response. To answer if microfiber can be dry cleaned...No idea...I can ask my dry cleaners next time I am there.
post #1104 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

Well it's not like anyone knows he hunts when they just see him in the city.

Brands like Ralph Lauren put shooting patches on their ready-to-wear garments all the time. I doubt many of their customers are hunters.

TBH, when I think of "costumey," I think of people trying to stay historically accurate to AA illustrations. I don't think of things like shooting patches, which have been used in ready-to-wear design for decades. Not that AA illustrations can't also be great on their own, but a rigid adherence to authenticity produces its own "costumey" connotations in 2016.

Let's be honest, there are far better hunting clothes options today then tweed shooting jacket. If I see a man wearing shooting jacket like that one, I do not think of him as a hunter, but as someone who likes that kind of English country style. I don't like it, but living in a city with lot of "Anglo" influence I see it from time to time (last time during opera performance, no less, and not being worn by anyone on stage).

Is it costumey? Not any more then me wearing an M 65 jacket.
post #1105 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by gs77 View Post

Let's be honest, there are far better hunting clothes options today then tweed shooting jacket. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
If I see a man wearing shooting jacket like that one, I do not think of him as a hunter, but as someone who likes that kind of English country style. I don't like it, but living in a city with lot of "Anglo" influence I see it from time to time (last time during opera performance, no less, and not being worn by anyone on stage).

Is it costumey? Not any more then me wearing an M 65 jacket
.

I wouldn't wear one either, but just because it doesn't suit me. The M-65 is a good comparison, I think. Double riders, cafe racers, bomber jackets, and hundreds of other (formerly) utilitarian pieces of clothing are essentially now just fashion pieces.

FWIW, I do think Andy's jacket looks better without a gun patch though. And it looks good on him (at least at this stage).
post #1106 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidLane View Post
 

Andy are you planning to actually shoot in it? I am curious as I may have one made at some point, and I wanted to know which type of back pleat would work the best. My original thoughts were for a bi-swing but I like the center pleat better from a visual standpoint. Was this a preference or recommendation from Steed/yourself?

 

As for the shoulder patch it really doesn't do much (in terms of shooting or aesthetically). I would recommend a microfiber lining in the breast pocket for your shooting glasses if you do plan to shoot in it.

 

DL-

 

I am not planning to shoot in it. When I shoot, I shoot trap. I'm not going to wear a $3000+ jacket and risk getting cartridge residue on it when I eject spent shells. I'm not crazy, at least along that axis.

 

I have a jacket already with a bi-swing back and I'd recommend that for ease of movement, even without true experience with a center pleat. When I extend my arms with the bi-swing jacket, the sleeves don't ride up and there's no feel of the jacket pulling. It's ideal.

 

My idea for the shoulder patch or padding was because I'm left handed and almost all jackets that have shooting pads have them on the right shoulder, which is useless for me. But bespoke gives me the freedom to have my jacket made any way I choose. So I thought I'd do that. The guys at Steed expressed their subtle skepticism and I agreed with them. Too much fussy detail.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post


I wouldn't wear one either, but just because it doesn't suit me. The M-65 is a good comparison, I think. Double riders, cafe racers, bomber jackets, and hundreds of other (formerly) utilitarian pieces of clothing are essentially now just fashion pieces.

FWIW, I do think Andy's jacket looks better without a gun patch though. And it looks good on him (at least at this stage).

 

An even better comparison is a safari jacket. Fewer than 1% of all safari jackets ever make it within a thousand miles of a safari. And the jacket will look good on me when it's finished, too :)

 

For certain things I get made I want it to look "usual", like a grey flannel suit, say, or a navy PoW. For other things I want to be creative, try unusual stuff, stuff that you can't obtain any other way, like bellows pockets and a rear center pleat.

post #1107 of 1722

Beautiful jacket, Andy.  If it were mine, I'd make it 3r2.  Maybe even four, with the ability to flip the collar up and button up to the neck.  Very helpful in SF w/ gusts from the ocean.

post #1108 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
 

Beautiful jacket, Andy.  If it were mine, I'd make it 3r2.  Maybe even four, with the ability to flip the collar up and button up to the neck.  Very helpful in SF w/ gusts from the ocean.


I thought about it, but I don't want to do that. I prefer two- or one-button configurations.

post #1109 of 1722
Upcoming bespoke projects...

DB minnis chalkstripe flannel suit



DB minnis green flannel suit



Dormeuil sb sc



A Harrison sc, not sure yet whether i want it SB or DB



Plus a proper navy blazer with gold buttons, no pics yet

All will be made by Don Raffaele Iorio, Naples
post #1110 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by emptym View Post
 

Beautiful jacket, Andy.  If it were mine, I'd make it 3r2.  Maybe even four, with the ability to flip the collar up and button up to the neck.  Very helpful in SF w/ gusts from the ocean.


I didn't realise StyleForum was near the sea.

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