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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 72

post #1066 of 1727

I've been very happy w/ my pents (6).  They hang w/o creasing, allow perfect mobility, and have never had a seam, bar tack, or button come loose.

post #1067 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-K-L View Post

Yes, I do have first hand experience with him, so do other forum members. However I do not know whether they want to tell about this.

He is a Neapolitan tailor, does soft coats and hates anything exaggerated.

Works out of a very small workshop inside a multi-storey residential building, nothing fancy, no frills. Coffee is included though.

Prices, as always - depends on who you are, who introduced you, how the tailor likes you etc. I'd say his prices are within the price range of other non-luxury Neapolitan tailors.

Happy to answer any other questions.

Thanks a lot, very helpful! I already have a traveling tailor from Florence who visits my city, but next time I go to Naples I would be very eager to find a tailor who puts a bit more shape into his coats, or at least pronounce the waist a bit more, and have clean lines. I don't know if he might be the place to go? I also like the work I have seen from Pirozzi, so he's definitely also an option. Please share any photos you might have of your garments from him smile.gif

Cheers,
SKM
post #1068 of 1727
@agjiffy great shots! Cifo is my favorite tailor working today, and those fits are just epic.
post #1069 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

I think the common experience is that the outcome ranges from great to horrendous. I think many find that the problems are too common and too hard to get fixed to make it worthwhile. I like the the armoury guys are upfront about this and are always willing to give you your money back when Ambrosi flakes out, so it can be worth a try. In my case, I never received the great; just the horrendous. The pants were unwearable. And he didn't seem to have much interest in making them right. I tried, but that was a time-consuming experience that I imagine would have been impossible without the armoury standing behind the pants. Ambrosi is the only tailor I've ever used that doesn't require a look at the finished product on the client. I find that troubling, particularly at his rarified price point.

I thought Simon Crompton's review was pretty much spot on.

Why does this man (Ambrosi) still have customers? Every time I read about him I hear about terrible service, long waiting times and flawed products. Why would anyone by something as expensive as bespoke trousers from a man with such a spotty record? Genuinely curious.
post #1070 of 1727

post #1071 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

Why does this man (Ambrosi) still have customers? Every time I read about him I hear about terrible service, long waiting times and flawed products. Why would anyone by something as expensive as bespoke trousers from a man with such a spotty record? Genuinely curious.

I'm just giving my opinion based on my experience. Other people have different opinions.
post #1072 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by IJReilly View Post

Why does this man (Ambrosi) still have customers? Every time I read about him I hear about terrible service, long waiting times and flawed products. Why would anyone by something as expensive as bespoke trousers from a man with such a spotty record? Genuinely curious.

While he no doubt us many pleased customers, there are many folks out there who will simply pay for the most expensive item there is, because they can.
post #1073 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by ericgereghty View Post

While he no doubt us many pleased customers, there are many folks out there who will simply pay for the most expensive item there is, because they can.

He isn't the most expensive. Not even close. And while there is a little bit of herd mentality here with respect to trying different tailors I don't think people who are paying four figures for a pair of pants are sticking with a tailor who makes a bad pair "because they can." I think Ambrosi's performance is all over the map. Some customers like emptym are clearly getting a good product time and time again. Others are getting a mix and some are having bad experiences. So depending on who you ask you will get a pretty wide range of responses. For my money he isn't good enough.
post #1074 of 1727
ok guys enough of this ambrosi talk. pretty much all has been said. again. and again. much more interested what @dieworkwear can add about iorio and post-rubinacci paone!
post #1075 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post

ok guys enough of this ambrosi talk. pretty much all has been said. again. and again. much more interested what @dieworkwear can add about iorio and post-rubinacci paone!

If you don't like it then don't read it. There's thousands of posts on Paone as well.
post #1076 of 1727
Old threads gone up in flames like chambray.
post #1077 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

If you don't like it then don't read it. There's thousands of posts on Paone as well.

np. each time i started reading your posts i was actually hoping they would contain some new information on your ambrosi pants or your dealings with him. but none so far. could you please tell us what exactly was bad about the pants he made you?
post #1078 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by C&A View Post

np. each time i started reading your posts i was actually hoping they would contain some new information on your ambrosi pants or your dealings with him. but none so far. could you please tell us what exactly was bad about the pants he made you?

Ok. I'm reluctant to do so as this is the "ongoing bespoke" thread and feel like your repeated ambrosi references are really hijacking this thing, C&A, but since you asked I am happy to oblige. This is the story of my pants.

Part 1: The measuring

The part where he measured me went fine. It usually does. I've never had a problem at the measuring phase. Well, that isn't true. I had planned to visit Gieves & Hawkes on my last visit to London but managed to lose my wallet and I felt that not having any money or credit cards might make my request to get measured seem a little insincere, but that is neither here nor there. With ambrosi, everything seemed to go fine at the measuring phase. He had chocolates. Yum!

Part 2: the fitting

For the first fitting (which didn't involve a full set of pants if I recall correctly, but was like a basted fitting with a shell), I thought they needed a lot of work. They were much too baggy and didn't have a shape like anything like other Ambrosi pants I had seen. I mentioned this and he noted that based on my attire at our fist meeting he had deduced that I'd liked english-style pants to he tried to make a similar pair. I explained that I couldn't remember what I was wearing at our first fitting, but that I was using him because I wanted his style. Ok, no problem, I fix them.

Part 3: the delivery of the ambrosi pants

Next, the ambrosi pants were delivered. No additional meeting to see if they turned out ok; just delivery by mail. Just a call from the armoury to pick 'em up. How odd. In any event, I was happy enough to receive them until I tried them on. The pants were much too long, much too baggy and didn't look anything like other Ambrosi pants I had seen. So I waited until his next visit and brought the pants in, and when I met with him I noted that the pants were much too long, much too baggy and didn't look anything like other Ambrosi pants I had seen. Salva explained that based on our fist meeting he had deduced that I'd liked english-style pants to he tried to make a similar pair. Uh oh. I explained that I couldn't remember what I was wearing at our first fitting, but that I was using him because I wanted his style. And he offered to fix them.

Part 4: the delivery of the ambrosi pants

Fast forward to the next delivery of the pants, which, in my view, didn't appear to have any tweaks and again were sent by mail. So I took them to the armoury where it was explained to me that it might be better and faster if the armoury staff did some pinning and marking and just send the pants to salva for execution. I suppose that is a little odd, but so be it. And so it was. But the pants came back shortly thereafter and did not turn out so well. They were different, but still problematic, with bunches of fabric around my rear end and they were still too long. I agreed to another meeting with salva on his next visit. During that visit he explained that based on our fist meeting he had deduced that I'd liked english-style pants to he tried to make a similar pair. He would fix them.

Part 5: the delivery of the thom browne pants

And fix them he did. And I ended up with a pair of pants that looked like those Thom Browne jobs that land at your ankles and show your socks as you walk around. I can't tell if anything else was wrong with them because pants that are four inches too short make it hard to focus on much else. And the pants cannot be modified any further at that point without a total remake. And so I got a refund.

So, those are things that were bad about the pants he made me. They didn't fit and he didn't seem to be very interested in making them fit. And they were $1100.

But the good things were that I dealt with the armoury, and they are fantastic and add value and stand behind their product.
post #1079 of 1727
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post


Ok. I'm reluctant to do so as this is the "ongoing bespoke" thread and feel like your repeated ambrosi references are really hijacking this thing, C&A, but since you asked I am happy to oblige. This is the story of my pants.

Part 1: The measuring

The part where he measured me went fine. It usually does. I've never had a problem at the measuring phase. Well, that isn't true. I had planned to visit Gieves & Hawkes on my last visit to London but managed to lose my wallet and I felt that not having any money or credit cards might make my request to get measured seem a little insincere, but that is neither here nor there. With ambrosi, everything seemed to go fine at the measuring phase. He had chocolates. Yum!

Part 2: the fitting

For the first fitting (which didn't involve a full set of pants if I recall correctly, but was like a basted fitting with a shell), I thought they needed a lot of work. They were much too baggy and didn't have a shape like anything like other Ambrosi pants I had seen. I mentioned this and he noted that based on my attire at our fist meeting he had deduced that I'd liked english-style pants to he tried to make a similar pair. I explained that I couldn't remember what I was wearing at our first fitting, but that I was using him because I wanted his style. Ok, no problem, I fix them.

Part 3: the delivery of the ambrosi pants

Next, the ambrosi pants were delivered. No additional meeting to see if they turned out ok; just delivery by mail. Just a call from the armoury to pick 'em up. How odd. In any event, I was happy enough to receive them until I tried them on. The pants were much too long, much too baggy and didn't look anything like other Ambrosi pants I had seen. So I waited until his next visit and brought the pants in, and when I met with him I noted that the pants were much too long, much too baggy and didn't look anything like other Ambrosi pants I had seen. Salva explained that based on our fist meeting he had deduced that I'd liked english-style pants to he tried to make a similar pair. Uh oh. I explained that I couldn't remember what I was wearing at our first fitting, but that I was using him because I wanted his style. And he offered to fix them.

Part 4: the delivery of the ambrosi pants

Fast forward to the next delivery of the pants, which, in my view, didn't appear to have any tweaks and again were sent by mail. So I took them to the armoury where it was explained to me that it might be better and faster if the armoury staff did some pinning and marking and just send the pants to salva for execution. I suppose that is a little odd, but so be it. And so it was. But the pants came back shortly thereafter and did not turn out so well. They were different, but still problematic, with bunches of fabric around my rear end and they were still too long. I agreed to another meeting with salva on his next visit. During that visit he explained that based on our fist meeting he had deduced that I'd liked english-style pants to he tried to make a similar pair. He would fix them.

Part 5: the delivery of the thom browne pants

And fix them he did. And I ended up with a pair of pants that looked like those Thom Browne jobs that land at your ankles and show your socks as you walk around. I can't tell if anything else was wrong with them because pants that are four inches too short make it hard to focus on much else. And the pants cannot be modified any further at that point without a total remake. And so I got a refund.

So, those are things that were bad about the pants he made me. They didn't fit and he didn't seem to be very interested in making them fit. And they were $1100.

But the good things were that I dealt with the armoury, and they are fantastic and add value and stand behind their product.


I'm curious in situations like this, does the store (i.e. The Armoury in this case) swallow the cost, or do they push it back on the maker? Definitely great to see that they stand behind their product, even though the maker doesn't care much.

post #1080 of 1727
Push it back, for sure.
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