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Ongoing Bespoke Projects - Page 69

post #1021 of 1722
Don't commission two pieces at once. Even if the first piece they make is really good, there is always room for improvement

An Italian tailor once told a friend (tongue in cheek), 'the first suit you throw out, the second you might keep, the third you will keep'
post #1022 of 1722
I think @weakmonday has used all those tailors. I thought the tofani looked great and the volpe was meh. Can't remember anything about the solito.
post #1023 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by sebastian mcfox View Post

Don't commission two pieces at once. Even if the first piece they make is really good, there is always room for improvement

An Italian tailor once told a friend (tongue in cheek), 'the first suit you throw out, the second you might keep, the third you will keep'

That sounds like a tailor that is trying to get additional commissions. The oft-repeated "the first suit always leaves room for improvement" is pretty much nonsense. One poster thought that the number of suits that it took to get your fit dialed in was...20. If there is room for improvement then the tailor should improve it whether it's the first suit or the fifth or the fiftieth. But I agree that you shouldn't order a second until the first is done. Otherwise you might just be throwing good money after bad.
post #1024 of 1722
I've ordered multiple things from the same tailor before (on the first commission). I don't think there's anything wrong with that, but you're taking more of a gamble. If you end up not liking the tailor's work, then you've lost more money.

If you do like the tailor's work, then it's a non-issue. Agree with agiffy that the idea that subsequent commissions will be markedly better is a bit overstated. They do improve, but it's minor and usually have to do with stylistic decisions (rather than fit or workmanship).

I haven't really liked the stuff I've seen from Tofani or Volpe, tbh.

Solito does nice work though, especially if you ask for a more traditional cut (rather than slim and short). Panico and Iorio are also great. I haven't seen the non-Paone stuff from Rubinacci, but it might be worth stopping by their store.

Not in Naples, but if you can make it to Milan, A. Caraceni does really nice work. A friend of mine recently had a DB suit made there with just one fitting and it looks great.

One upside to ordering multiple garments from multiple tailors: you may like DBs from one tailor, but prefer SBs from someone else.
post #1025 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by agjiffy View Post

One poster thought that the number of suits that it took to get your fit dialed in was...20.

FWIW, I don't think that was the argument. The argument was that you gain a deeper understanding or appreciation for someone's work when you've ordered more things. So someone who has stayed with the same tailor for 10 years, ordering say 15 suits, will have a better appreciation for that tailor's work than someone who essentially just hops around ordering 1 suit from 15 different tailors.

That's been since twisted into a bunch of different memes, but it's not really that crazy of an argument. The controversy was really over whether someone who has only ordered a couple of suits from one tailor has anything "worthwhile" to contribute to a conversation.

Speaking of "menu samplers," @unbelragazzo tried something like seven different tailors in Naples. OP should get in touch with him for his thoughts.
post #1026 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by S K M View Post

Mmmm, looks like my bespoke shorts are on their way to me icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

Pretty cool. One time thing just to try out, or you've done it before
post #1027 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by venividivicibj View Post

Pretty cool. One time thing just to try out, or you've done it before

Never done it before, and didn't plan on it either, but when I visited my trouser tailor the fabric caught my eye since it looked rather peculiar. He explained "for shorts" and I knew I couldn't leave without them...
post #1028 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

FWIW, I don't think that was the argument. The argument was that you gain a deeper understanding or appreciation for someone's work when you've ordered more things. So someone who has stayed with the same tailor for 10 years, ordering say 15 suits, will have a better appreciation for that tailor's work than someone who essentially just hops around ordering 1 suit from 15 different tailors.

That's been since twisted into a bunch of different memes, but it's not really that crazy of an argument. The controversy was really over whether someone who has only ordered a couple of suits from one tailor has anything "worthwhile" to contribute to a conversation.

That is reasonable and I agree with it as a standalone statement but it is a pretty generous characterization of his post.
post #1029 of 1722

I would avoid more than 1 suit from the same tailor for the first time if you are not in hurry and you will continue to make bespoke suits. It's always fan to go to Naples and make fittings, enjoy good food, coffee and nice weather.

In Naples i tried, Panico, Solito, Formosa, Petrosino, Volpe and Nunzio Pirozzi. I liked more Pirozzi, especially he's fitting really good. You may or may not like the style but fitting is very nice. Solito is good as well but unfortunately i always had minor problems in fitting and finally i stopped to go there. I like the front of the Solito's jacket, openings, lapels etc. they are always very very nice. Volpe to avoid. He did only one fitting for my first commission despite that i asked him to make second fitting...But next time i was in Naples jacket was ready...Personally i would avoid Panico as well, prices are higher than elsewhere, fit is ok but not great and on stylish level i definitely prefer Solito.

So overall i suggest you to go to visit two tailors, Pirozzi and Solito and commission only one suit from each one.

post #1030 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post
 

I would avoid more than 1 suit from the same tailor for the first time if you are not in hurry and you will continue to make bespoke suits. It's always fan to go to Naples and make fittings, enjoy good food, coffee and nice weather.

In Naples i tried, Panico, Solito, Formosa, Petrosino, Volpe and Nunzio Pirozzi. I liked more Pirozzi, especially he's fitting really good. You may or may not like the style but fitting is very nice. Solito is good as well but unfortunately i always had minor problems in fitting and finally i stopped to go there. I like the front of the Solito's jacket, openings, lapels etc. they are always very very nice. Volpe to avoid. He did only one fitting for my first commission despite that i asked him to make second fitting...But next time i was in Naples jacket was ready...Personally i would avoid Panico as well, prices are higher than elsewhere, fit is ok but not great and on stylish level i definitely prefer Solito.

So overall i suggest you to go to visit two tailors, Pirozzi and Solito and commission only one suit from each one.


Curious to hear your impression of Formosa in comparison to these others.  The only one you named buy did not review.  Thanks

post #1031 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post


Curious to hear your impression of Formosa in comparison to these others.  The only one you named buy did not review.  Thanks

I'm not sure it will matter, everyone will have a different experience with each tailor.
post #1032 of 1722

Agreed, but I am asking someone that has experience with multiple tailors of a certain style and who gave his opinion on all but one that he listed. What is your interest in my solicitation of his opinion?

post #1033 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post

Agreed, but I am asking someone that has experience with multiple tailors of a certain style and who gave his opinion on all but one that he listed. What is your interest in my solicitation of his opinion?

None whatsoever, however, you may have high expectations of the tailors recommended and be let down. You will have to find out what works for you.
post #1034 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by WillingToLearn View Post
 


Curious to hear your impression of Formosa in comparison to these others.  The only one you named buy did not review.  Thanks


It was overall negative as well. The fit was ok, the suit needed some adjustments when i received it. Formosa was nice to make anything he can to adjust it but actually they didn't let enough fabric to make jacket slightly wider for example... Besides that the finishing of the suit was rather average and i personally don't like their shoulders. They make spalla camicia in two version "moderate" and "exagerated" but they are making really like a shirt shoulder, not a real suit shoulder for me.

 

I agree with lordsuperb that you should try a tailor to see if it works out to you. That's why i suggested to try only one tailor at a time.

 

To me one of the major problem in current bespoke tailoring environment is to which extent you are actually getting a bespoke suit or degree of bespokeness. In tailors that we named above it's a low degree. It's bespoke but low degree. We all know that in Naples there's a pants business and many tailors are using external pants maker. The handwork is done elsewhere. The cutter is just cutting and giving pieces to coat makers etc. etc. Pirozzi is slightly different because everything is done in house (no external contractor)

I have now a tailor who's working alone, he's doing everything himself, even the finishing handwork and to me it's a completely different experience. It's a kind of ultimate bespoke.

post #1035 of 1722
Quote:
Originally Posted by dfoverdx View Post

To me one of the major problem in current bespoke tailoring environment is to which extent you are actually getting a bespoke suit or degree of bespokeness. In tailors that we named above it's a low degree. It's bespoke but low degree. We all know that in Naples there's a pants business and many tailors are using external pants maker. The handwork is done elsewhere. The cutter is just cutting and giving pieces to coat makers etc. etc. Pirozzi is slightly different because everything is done in house (no external contractor)
I have now a tailor who's working alone, he's doing everything himself, even the finishing handwork and to me it's a completely different experience. It's a kind of ultimate bespoke.

Why would contracting part of the work out make something "less bespoke?"
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