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jonathanS

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Going to see the first MBT. A quick fit check (Cresent + Pommella):

View attachment 2156513

The pieces were looking smashing. A green herringbone SB and a beige 6x1 DB.
View attachment 2156517

View attachment 2156515

Nothing much to say about the flawless fit. I am a big fan of his style, particularly the single breasted model.

View attachment 2156519

View attachment 2156521

Next commission: this turquoise from Loro Piana's new SS24 Proposte Giacche collection. Have a good feeling about this one!

View attachment 2156523
I like the Loro piana - I’d, personally, make it up with kotaro.
 

JohnMRobie

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Some poor SF member's jacket is gonna get delayed by like a month so Despos can explain to us how a pagoda shoulder gets made.
Feel worse for the poor tailor who is going to be waiting for some random SF dude to send them a google translate WhatsApp message telling them how a pagoda shoulder gets made
 

jonathanS

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Feel worse for the poor tailor who is going to be waiting for some random SF dude to send them a google translate WhatsApp message telling them how a pagoda shoulder gets made
Okay…..


Apologies for the typo
 

Despos

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My impression is that tailors tend to charge more for dinner jackets because of the materials used in the facing and trimmings. For example, the required silk grosgrain/satin facing and braiding is very expensive relative to other trimmings. In some cases, a length of facing can be almost as much as a length of cloth. In contrast, a dinner jacket with self-facing is merely an odd jacket in terms of material costs.
Pure silk facing these days is over 200.00 a yard. The higher quality silk is very narrow. Only enough for one jacket from one yard.
We put the silk on by hand after everything else is finished. It's the last thing we do except buttonholes.
Pay my coat maker 50% more when making a tuxedo.
That's why we charge more. Recouping extra costs, not really making more profit.
 

Despos

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Very old school Napoli. Love it. I could be wrong but from the pics it looks like the shoulder itself is still very light and natural (no deliberate shaping or pagoda). But rather the sleevehead treatment gives it the illusion of a pagoda shape. Would be curious if he uses much wadding in that sleevehead to get the rollino or if its mostly ironing. Also is the shoulder extended at all? I bet these will be very comfy jackets.
The slight concave effect is from shaping of the canvass. A wedge is inserted in the canvass and the horse hair that creates the concave shape on these shoulders. If making a pagoda shoulder you adjust the grain line of the hymo and haircloth and stretch with an iron more than a regular shoulder.

Rollino is an expression of the sleeve cap and created by cutting the sleeve cap higher and sewing a bit more fullness around the top of the sleeve. The fullness creates a bubble effect which is the rollino effect. How much or how little fullness is sewn in determines the height of the roll.
Fullness is basted into the front of the sleeve as well and that is what creates the beautiful roll of the front of the sleeve.

Sleeveheads are made and sewn onto the outlet from the bottom of the armhole at the front, over the sleeve cap and ends a couple inches past the seam on the back of the sleeve. This fills in the bubble created by the fullness for support but doesn't create the rollino. It only reinforces it and sustains it.
If you want a natural or bald finish on the sleeve, you put less or no fullness.

The only iron work done on the sleeve is compressing and shrinking the fullness of the sleeve.

Pagoda is a shoulder expression and the sleeve is not part of it.
Ironwork on the shoulder is stretching both the cloth and the canvass to create more shape. Regular shoulder has the same stretching done but to a lesser degree. Because the canvass is cut on bias for a pagoda stye the effect is exaggerated.
 
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Despos

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I have some jackets with a shoulder something like that from another old school Napoli house and they are the most comfortable jackets I own. A big sleevehead with high armhole combined with rollino without padding equals super comfortable. Spalla camicia can be comfy too but with that construction, the shoulders hug your body more and there is a little less room for movement.
Some tailors intentionally cut a more narrow shoulder when making spalla camicia with the intent that your shoulder will fill in the space that the sleeve head would have. Know some shirt makers think like this too.
 

classicalthunde

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Going to see the first MBT. A quick fit check (Cresent + Pommella):

View attachment 2156513

The pieces were looking smashing. A green herringbone SB and a beige 6x1 DB.
View attachment 2156517

View attachment 2156515

Nothing much to say about the flawless fit. I am a big fan of his style, particularly the single breasted model.

View attachment 2156519

View attachment 2156521

Next commission: this turquoise from Loro Piana's new SS24 Proposte Giacche collection. Have a good feeling about this one!

View attachment 2156523

I was like "This fool! He gave away his MBT...its right there on the hanger!"

Then I googled "Manetti" and found out its just a hanger manufacturer...

9949665f56ab0d72b6a989994a0dc30a.jpg
 

jonathanS

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I was like "This fool! He gave away his MBT...its right there on the hanger!"

Then I googled "Manetti" and found out its just a hanger manufacturer...

9949665f56ab0d72b6a989994a0dc30a.jpg
The m in mbt is manetti
 

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