Ongoing Bespoke Projects

Thanks for humoring me lol. I think its an interesting discussion since these are probably the most popular schools of tailoring on here. Personally I've struggled to pick a favorite myself (luckily I don't have to!).

The major differences as I see them:

Neapolitan: Longer and slightly roomier across the back and through the skirt. Shoulder is bang on with no narrowing or extension. More open quarters giving that X shape which I suppose is subjective but I really like it. Decent waist suppression and minimal chest drape. Very high armhole. Lower button point.

Florentine: Shoulder extension is noticeable but not major. I was initially worried about this aspect when I commissioned the jacket since I have very wide and square shoulders naturally. I think the effect is minimized by all the shape in the chest, slightly less waist suppression and the end result is perfect. Slightly lower arm hole than Napoli.

Both jackets are incredibly light (the Solaro is a heavier cloth than the mock leno) and quite comfy but in slightly different ways. The Neapolitan jacket moves with you while you kind of "move in" the Florentine for lack of a better way of putting it due to the drape.

Stay tuned for a similar DB comparison!

reidd said:

Thanks for humoring me lol. I think its an interesting discussion since these are probably the most popular schools of tailoring on here. Personally I've struggled to pick a favorite myself (luckily I don't have to!).

The major differences as I see them:

Neapolitan: Longer and slightly roomier across the back and through the skirt. Shoulder is bang on with no narrowing or extension. More open quarters giving that X shape which I suppose is subjective but I really like it. Decent waist suppression and minimal chest drape. Very high armhole.

Florentine: Shoulder extension is noticeable but not major. I was initially worried about this aspect when I commissioned the jacket since I have very wide and square shoulders naturally. I think the effect is minimized by all the shape in the chest, slightly less waist suppression and the end result is perfect. Slightly lower arm hole than Napoli.

Both jackets are incredibly light (the Solaro is a heavier cloth than the mock leno) and quite comfy but in slightly different ways. The Neapolitan jacket moves with you while you kind of "move in" the Florentine for lack of a better way of putting it due to the drape.

Stay tuned for a similar DB comparison!

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Who were the two tailors?

Having tried people from both I have found I prefer to wear Florentine tailors. This certainly may be due to small sample size, but in my limited experience the Florentino style is roomier in the chest and more comfortable to wear while the Neapolitan style is cut closer. I also am not a fan of spalla camicia, which is one of the main reasons why people choose Neapolitan, I think. I prefer a bit of an extended shoulder.

Now I’m sure there are Neapolitan tailors who cut a drapier fit, I’m just going off personal limited experience.

When it comes to English tailoring I also prefer the A&S school, which also has drape and extended shoulders.

What looks better on YOU? It’s hard to tell from just one photo but out of the two I prefer the Florentine jacket. Not that the Neapolitan one looks bad at all.

reidd said:

On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why?

Neapolitan:

View attachment 2172579

Or Florentine:

View attachment 2172575

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The question is which do YOU prefer. Which do you feel better in? Both are fine & have their place. You need to wear both and think about both. For me, Florence works better with browns / olives. Whereas Napoli is better for blues. Florentine works better for patterns too. But that’s just my eye, don’t let me influence your decision.

It’s not like one style looks particularly bad on you.

As an aside, if anyone is on the fence about Smith's Solaro.. go for it. I've found it to be an absolute workhorse. Holds shape really well, super durable and hides stains to boot. That suit is 5 years old and has never been pressed. Also surprisingly easy to wear. Dresses up and down very well.

reidd said:

As an aside, if anyone is on the fence about Smith's Solaro.. go for it. I've found it to be an absolute workhorse. Holds shape really well, super durable and hides stains to boot. That suit is 5 years old and has never been pressed. Also surprisingly easy to wear. Dresses up and down very well.

Click to expand...

Only thing holding me back is the weight

L.deJong said:

Only thing holding me back is the weight

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I think you just have to abandon the notion that it’s a summer suit. While this may have been historically true, there’s nothing about it that screams summer. I think of it as a three season version of a tan linen summer suit.

Solaro is very much an autumn/spring cloth. All individual climate dependent of course.

reidd said:

On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why?

Neapolitan:

View attachment 2172579

Or Florentine:

View attachment 2172575

Click to expand...

As @SeamasterLux said, both look great. Picking nits and I think this has more to do with the suit than the fit - The Neapolitan seems to have some wrinkling on the sleeve, whereas the Florentine is very smooth and lapel roll on the Florentine is "chef's kiss" (can't find the emoji).

reidd said:

On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why?

Neapolitan:

View attachment 2172579

Or Florentine:

View attachment 2172575

Click to expand...

I personally prefer the more open quarters of the Neapolitan jacket in general, but also on you in the examples that you have provided.

reidd said:

On the subject of comparing cuts... Would be curious which style you guys think works better for me and why?

Neapolitan:

Spoiler

View attachment 2172579

Or Florentine:

Spoiler

View attachment 2172575

Click to expand...

I'm biased because I have 1 jacket from the same Neapolitan tailor but IMO while both look great on you, I do think the Neapolitan one looks better. If I had to give a (subjective) reason why, I guess it's the shoulder; the Florentine one droops a bit.

London last week.
Just a blazer. However in an interesting cloth, Springram 16 oz.
First fitting. Sleeves will be shortened a tad.

Wsl jacket