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Bespoke Irish Linen Suit

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 

hi Styleforum people,

 

  Would like to hear any comments or feedback on a bespoke project I got going on right now. I will update photos after my next fitting. My apologies for the low quality phone photos.

 

   this is my second bespoke suit with my tailor who is 78 years old, from Napoli, and this time I'm going with an unlined Irish linen, I bought 3 meters of this material: http://merchantandmills.com/products/cloth/gravy-linen-chambray/

 

   I'm really happy with how its coming together and I think the result will be incredible.

 

  Photos are from the first fitting, where we decided on the button stance, checked shoulders / waist, measured sleeves. There is a lot more to go...

 

Details:

- notchel lapel - 7cm

- 2 button (slightly higher stance)

- patch pockets

- unlined, except for sleeves and shoulders

- 2 vents

- no structure, but he'll use a little bit of glue-fabric to make it rigid (which is in every "unconstructed" jacket - he pulled apart my j.crew one and showed it to me)

 

- no belt loops on pants  (I think this is awesome)

 

This first photo is from the linen supplier's site

 

The buttons I chose

 

post #2 of 15
Pants look good.
post #3 of 15
Buttons (Click to show)
Quote:

 

The buttons I chose

 

 

 

I usually prefer for buttons to be sewn on in a straight line instead of glued in a crooked one, but I think that's just personal preference.

 

Cheers,

BigRob

post #4 of 15
Jacket looks good from the back, pants could be slightly wider below the knees especially for linen but it's a personal choice. Glue-fabric sound like fusing just because J Crew does it on their coats I wouldn't recommend it for bespoke, you should ask for a light canvassed front. It will still holds it's shape.

Have you consider doing 3 roll to two instead of two buttons?
post #5 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the replies!

With the pic of the buttons, they are just sitting in top of the fabric, I guess I thought that was apparent.

I did in fact want to do a 3 roll 2 but my tailor has never done it so I just left it alone. I also thought the lower leg was a bit slim, but it works with my skinny proportion I guess. I prefer it to looser legs, which remind me of linen drawstring pants.

With the fabric, he's not technically fusing it, it's more for the inside of the lapel and a little bit in the breast. I found a thread here one time where someone pulled apart a jacket that was unconstructed, unlined, uncanvassed, and unfused, and there was still a little glue in there.

I don't want to do a canvas because I want it to drape in a more casual way.

Anyone else have experience in bespoke linen?
post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 

The finished product:

 

Unlined, no canvas

 

the sleeve length looks good in this photo, but if I move my arms at all, the shirt cuffs seem to get sucked into the sleeve, so I don't know if I should maybe go a bit shorter

 

 

 

 

post #7 of 15
The jacket looks fine. The trousers; not so much.

Hold off on shortening the sleeves as they have a tendency to shorten a bit upon wearing, linen especially.
post #8 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tried and True View Post

The jacket looks fine. The trousers; not so much.

Hold off on shortening the sleeves as they have a tendency to shorten a bit upon wearing, linen especially.

 

you think the trousers are a bit slim? I kind of like trousers on the slim side, but they are definitely on the border line for me

post #9 of 15
Jacket looks good, but a bit snug.
Your shirt shows between the top and
bottom button. It shouldn't, IMHO.
post #10 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by comrade View Post

Jacket looks good, but a bit snug.
Your shirt shows between the top and
bottom button. It shouldn't, IMHO.

+1 The jacket looks fine but a little snug, The front is cut away too much seeing shirt near the bottom button. The trousers don't very well from the back fuller trousers would look much better IMHO especially in linen.
post #11 of 15
Not at all impressed.

Coat seems tight and lacks any presence, the trousers really do not drape or even fit.
post #12 of 15
The jacket looks fine - it isn't what I would have gone with though. That being said, the pants should have a higher rise with that jacket and they shouldn't be as slim. The shirt showing is less than ideal.
post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the opinions. Yeah, I like everything on the slim side because I'm pretty skinny and I feel like I'm swimming in a lot of jackets and pants. I'll see if I can get some better photos of the jacket, the linen really does have a lot of soul to it but in the other photos, you can't tell, it's not even in focus
post #14 of 15
You have slightly bow legs and these trousers aren't cut for that figuration which is why the crease isn't centered and why the drape isn't good. The skinny trouser really highlights this further. Stylistically the jacket is dull with no sense of élan. I hate to be so negative but it annoys me that this is the result of a lifetime of putting suits together.
post #15 of 15
This makes me appreciate my tailor that much more.
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