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Tom Ford Made to Measure Suit in Melbourne

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 

Hi everyone,

 

I'm new here and I'm sorry to trouble everyone, but I was hoping to get a gift for my husband's birthday.

 

I was hoping to get him a MTM Tom Ford suit but I was wondering how much this would cost and roughly how I would go about arranging this in Melbourne

 

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

Cheers

E

post #2 of 14
That's some gift! You wouldn't get much change from 6 grand I wouldn't think. Not worth it for mtm in my opinion. Tom Ford is hideously overpriced. You'd be better off putting the money towards a true bespoke suit or looking at mtm from someone like p johnson. Maybe @Coxsackie can chime in?
post #3 of 14
Thread Starter 

Thanks for your reply Henry :)

 

I guess I got roped into the whole "experience" of it all with the ads haha

What I had in mind was to organise it as a surprise

 

As you can probably tell I'm not very in-the-know with male fashion :(

 

Can I ask what exactly happens in the MTM?

post #4 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellarichard View Post

Thanks for your reply Henry smile.gif

I guess I got roped into the whole "experience" of it all with the ads haha
What I had in mind was to organise it as a surprise

As you can probably tell I'm not very in-the-know with male fashion frown.gif

Can I ask what exactly happens in the MTM?

Yes, TF MTM is overpriced, but if you have the money, you are still getting a very well made suit made to Zegna Couture quality. Bespoke if not for everyone, and requires patience and some experience to be happy with the results.

As for your question, Made To Measure (MTM) is the process of taking a Ready To Wear (RTW) suit template, and making some adjustments based on the client's individual measurements. It also offers the benefit of picking all of your cloth and styling details.

I am not sure if there is a TF store or vendor near you, but maybe one of our Australian gents will chime in...
post #5 of 14

You can't really do MTM as a "surprise", as MTM stands for "made to measure" and of course, someone has to measure him up! The actual suit would appear several weeks (and hopefully, several fittings) later.

 

Tom Ford is certainly overpriced. My one and only TF suit was purchased on sale at half price and still cost a bomb. It was off the rack, happened to fit me fairly well (although still needed some work by an alterations tailor) and so I pulled the trigger. Very happy with the outcome but I was lucky not to go bankrupt in the process.

 

I've tried a few TF suits on since then and found that most of them have quite unconventional proportions, with very wide shoulders and narrow waists. If your hubby isn't a male model or elite athlete, he may have some trouble even with MTM.

 

Full bespoke from a local tailoring house would be a better bet. In Melbourne, you should go and have a look around the Oscar Hunt showroom on Hardware Lane. If you like what they have on offer in styles and cloths, maybe you could make an arrangement to "surprise" hubby by booking an appointment for a first consultation and measure-up and taking him there. They have nice fabrics and are genuinely passionate about their craft. What I've seen of their work is very impressive.

 

Alternatively you could wait for the B&Tailor trunk show which should be coming to Melbourne some time soon. B&T are a Korean tailoring house doing great things right now (check other threads on this board). They have recently expanded into Australia with the help of a very knowledgeable local agent and fitter. Prices are about half of what you'd pay for TF. PM me for more info.

 

You should also have a careful look at hubby's current wardrobe. If it's full of cheaper OTR suits, then his first bespoke project should be something very basic like a charcoal or navy single-breasted, two-button, notch-lapel two piece suit in a good quality worsted wool. The bespoke process will ensure that this suit fits him beautifully and flatters his frame, and he will be able to wear it many times over a period of many years. And every time he wears it, he will think of you.

post #6 of 14

She could measure him in his sleep.

post #7 of 14
Why on earth Tom Ford - the label?
post #8 of 14
Once a year, master tailor from Tom Ford visits Harrolds for MTM. Costs runs from AUD$ 7,000 - AUD$12,000 and above, depending on fabric. Takes 6-8 weeks. Give Harrolds a call if interested. Ask for James/ Marco for advice.
And no, I am not affiliated with them or whatsoever.
post #9 of 14

I just went through the MTM process at Tom Ford in Harrolds - getting a suit made for my wedding. Depending on fabric, prices seem to range from 6000 - 8/9000. Even the very nice fabrics didn't seem to go past the 8/9k mark, though I'm sure there are exceptions. Let me know if you have any questions. 

post #10 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellarichard View Post

 

What I had in mind was to organise it as a surprise

MTM as a surprise this is an oxymoron. Would like to recommend Savile Row bespoke. The quality is far superior to Tom Ford MTM and the price point is similar.

post #11 of 14


Would love to know why you consider the "quality" of a Savil Row Bespoke Suit to be far superior to a Tom Ford Made to Measure. I would stake the claim that a TF suit quality wise fully measures up the that of Savil Row and that the Italian producers use an even higher quality inner materials or should we just call them different in compare to what they use at SR. If you go to a Savil Row bespoke tailor you get a different product and a model that has been customized from the feet up but still with in the limits of the "house style". The SR tailors are not going to copy a TF suit but instead make their interpretation of the model specifications you provide (if any). If you enjoy the look, feel and spirit of a TF suit you could probably not be happy with a SR suit since one is a British classic product and the other i a modern Italian product. Its a bit like comparing Bentley with Ferrari. Both incredible car producers but their cars are still night and day in terms of driving experience, feel and look. TF Made to measure will offer a more exotic fabric collection as well as the factories can work with a broader range of fabrics than small atelier tailor can do, so if you are into the extrem microns of special blends like cashmere/mohair for example TF will be the better choice. Anyways I have the greatest respect for both SR and TF products and yes both are heavily overpriced but so are most luxury products that are desirable meant for people who are making "too much" money ;)

post #12 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Jahns View Post
 


Would love to know why you consider the "quality" of a Savil Row Bespoke Suit to be far superior to a Tom Ford Made to Measure. I would stake the claim that a TF suit quality wise fully measures up the that of Savil Row and that the Italian producers use an even higher quality inner materials or should we just call them different in compare to what they use at SR. If you go to a Savil Row bespoke tailor you get a different product and a model that has been customized from the feet up but still with in the limits of the "house style". The SR tailors are not going to copy a TF suit but instead make their interpretation of the model specifications you provide (if any). If you enjoy the look, feel and spirit of a TF suit you could probably not be happy with a SR suit since one is a British classic product and the other i a modern Italian product. Its a bit like comparing Bentley with Ferrari. Both incredible car producers but their cars are still night and day in terms of driving experience, feel and look. TF Made to measure will offer a more exotic fabric collection as well as the factories can work with a broader range of fabrics than small atelier tailor can do, so if you are into the extrem microns of special blends like cashmere/mohair for example TF will be the better choice. Anyways I have the greatest respect for both SR and TF products and yes both are heavily overpriced but so are most luxury products that are desirable meant for people who are making "too much" money ;)


Im bored, so I'll bite.

 

First of all, I want to make something clear, Tom Ford styling is not Italian in the slightest bit.  Its very Savile Row.  Tom Ford, draws his inspiration from the Golden Era of Hollywood, which is to say, Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Rock Hudson, Bing Crosby, Gregory Peck etc. - all of whom had their suits made bespoke on savile row, from various houses, including Huntsman, Kilgour, Anderson and Sheppard, Henry Poole etc. Specifically, atleast to me, the Tom Ford suits is very Huntsman in styling, maybe he has slightly wider lapels, but, on the broad points, he has a strong shoulder, nipped in waist. Keep in mind, Tom Ford has stated that, if he did not produce his own clothing and suit line, he would get his suits made on savile row.  Tom Ford has his own style, otherwise, why else would you go Tom Ford made to measure when you can do Zegna Made to measure (I really don't understand your argument about house style - if you are on the row, and have a specific house style you like, go to the house that fits your needs the best).  

 

Second, in terms of quality, Tom Ford Suits are made by Zegna, which is, while a very good product, machine made. I am not knocking Zegna or Tom Ford in the slightest bit, they are both very good products, but the suits on savile row, in true bespoke fashion are handmade, with a gradual hand padding  of the lapels to give the roll a truly elegant look.  For true bespoke, a customer has atleast 1, usually multiple, fittings such that the tailor can make adjustments for your posture, the slope of your shoulder, etc.  Further, the hand stitches in the jacket, which your body will feel, will allow the canvassing and suit to adjust to your body over time better than a machine-made suit - the hand stitches, you cannot see from the outside, but your body can feel it when you put it on. 

 

The benefit of Tom Ford is that he creates a product and you can see it right away, walk out the door with the product. With made-to-measure you are relying on a sales associate to measure you who does not actually produce the product. On Savile Row, sure there are individuals, who has been creating suits for years, who measure you, but they also see the production process of your suit. With respect to the finest wools, if you want to go into a savile row shop, I'd imagine they could order vicuna wool (or any wool-cashmere flannel or mohair blends you want) for you if you really wanted (it wouldn't be cheap, especially for the vicuna). 

 

I think a better comparison to Savile Row Bespoke would be a Brioni or Kiton made-to-measure. Price-wise, I don't know how much Tom Ford made to measure is, but I'd venture to say, RTW is ~5-6K, so MTM would ballpark ~7-8K, starting. Huntsman is the most expensive, I believe at 4400 Pounds. Savile Row probably takes longer, but those are the trade offs. 

 

Finally, with all due respect, you really need to do a little bit more research on Savile Row and Tom Ford Suiting because you wouldn't have said 90% of what you said if you just used the search tool on styleforum - this forum is like a bastion of information about menswear and men's style. I say all this, admiring the Tom Ford styling, and have several zegna suits / sportscoats in my closet. 

post #13 of 14


Interesting. Thank you "biting" - Now I have to bite as well.

 

You seem well informed or at least to have a genuine interest and knowledge about fine mens wear and that alone is rare. Let me say that I agree with you in regards to TF styling as being more britisch than Italian especially in the shoulder area. Whether or not a nipped waist belongs to Italian of British styling is arguable as both tailoring schools dictated a slim waist silhouette, but also in terms of jacket length I agree that TF is more inspired by British than Italian styling. Actually my the reason I stated Italian is that TF suits are Italian made. I know Zegna started out as the producer but I am not sure they are the factory doing them any more (I need to check this before Ill argue otherwise) 

 

If you really want to get technical then lets get technical:

 

You state that SR suits are handmade and then you directly argue that this is better. I love a hand drawn pattern, a hand cut fabric and hand-basted lapel but is it BETTER?? To my opinion the only reason that Savil Row tailors are basting by hand is that the tradition is to do so and because the Strobel machines that can do this job beautifully are total overkill in small scale production and only suitable in a factory setting. The rolling of the label can be achieved just as nicely on machine at a fraction of the time and in a scale production also at a fraction of the price (Not that TF customers will benefit from this cost reduction ;) ) There are few places on a jacket where actually hand sewn makes an honest to god difference. The sleeve lining for example sewn into the armhole by hand DOES give more comfort. The collar can be inserted with better precision and more beautiful stitching if hand basted before final attachment and both SR and Zegna are using this method. AMF stitching by hand is another area where SR has been beaten by time and technology since the "Complete" machines are making a beautiful pick stitching with the exact same result as hand made would provide with just one thread. This is however often not the way the inside pick stitching is done as this is a double needle machine making a saddle stitch seam which is easier, cheaper and faster and Zegna is using this machine in their production. Buttonholes are another area where handmade vs. machine made really makes a difference but only to the eye that truly can appreciate the look of a hand made button hole. In other cases the industry top machines made my AMF-Reece can make button holes that in my opinion are as amazingly beautiful and of course slightly more evenly stitched then hand made but these machines even can do hand imitation which can deliver pretty impressive results. Zegna uses these machines and they have even helped develop them. In terms of button holes TF is incorporating the Milanese buttonhole in the label and the last sleeve button holes. This buttonhole is a hand made wonder as it add around 20 minutes of extra working time per button hole which in industrial production is forever. Using a combination of hand made and top machine made in my opinion brings the best of both worlds in a TF suits.

 

If you want to discuss canvas quality and shoulder pad types and other manufacturing techniques TF vs SR indeed I will be happy too :)

 

Finally I should perhaps tell you that I have actually spend several days with Henry Pools to learn about SR manufacturing and that my day job is Technical expert and Pattern Maker in men's wear manufacturing having visited several of the finest factories in Italy but also the factory in China that produced the TF staff clothing so I doubt I could be much better informed to make my statements but I am always wiling to have a professional discussion and learn new things from other enthusiast in this business that I love.

 

One of the reasons I jump to the defense of TF is that its actually the only premium brand I would "consider" getting a suit from because I really love his styling but of course I would not be able to justify to spend the extra at least 2000 $ added simply because the label says "Tom Ford" but still I wish I had enough money to not care about this :) Its like buying Apple. Overpriced but if you want Apple performance there is no other way...

 

And regarding fabrics. No there are indeed fabrics that tailors are unable to work with and that are too difficult to handle in a hand cutting process. SR tailors rarely work with fabrics below 15 microns and yes you probably could order any exotic blend you would wish but SR would not give give you this fabric selection in their bunches and you would be more likely to find this in the selection books at TF.

 

Best regards

 

Peter

post #14 of 14
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Jahns View Post
 


Interesting. Thank you "biting" - Now I have to bite as well.

 

You seem well informed or at least to have a genuine interest and knowledge about fine mens wear and that alone is rare. Let me say that I agree with you in regards to TF styling as being more britisch than Italian especially in the shoulder area. Whether or not a nipped waist belongs to Italian of British styling is arguable as both tailoring schools dictated a slim waist silhouette, but also in terms of jacket length I agree that TF is more inspired by British than Italian styling. Actually my the reason I stated Italian is that TF suits are Italian made. I know Zegna started out as the producer but I am not sure they are the factory doing them any more (I need to check this before Ill argue otherwise) 

 

If you really want to get technical then lets get technical:

 

You state that SR suits are handmade and then you directly argue that this is better. I love a hand drawn pattern, a hand cut fabric and hand-basted lapel but is it BETTER?? To my opinion the only reason that Savil Row tailors are basting by hand is that the tradition is to do so and because the Strobel machines that can do this job beautifully are total overkill in small scale production and only suitable in a factory setting. The rolling of the label can be achieved just as nicely on machine at a fraction of the time and in a scale production also at a fraction of the price (Not that TF customers will benefit from this cost reduction ;) ) There are few places on a jacket where actually hand sewn makes an honest to god difference. The sleeve lining for example sewn into the armhole by hand DOES give more comfort. The collar can be inserted with better precision and more beautiful stitching if hand basted before final attachment and both SR and Zegna are using this method. AMF stitching by hand is another area where SR has been beaten by time and technology since the "Complete" machines are making a beautiful pick stitching with the exact same result as hand made would provide with just one thread. This is however often not the way the inside pick stitching is done as this is a double needle machine making a saddle stitch seam which is easier, cheaper and faster and Zegna is using this machine in their production. Buttonholes are another area where handmade vs. machine made really makes a difference but only to the eye that truly can appreciate the look of a hand made button hole. In other cases the industry top machines made my AMF-Reece can make button holes that in my opinion are as amazingly beautiful and of course slightly more evenly stitched then hand made but these machines even can do hand imitation which can deliver pretty impressive results. Zegna uses these machines and they have even helped develop them. In terms of button holes TF is incorporating the Milanese buttonhole in the label and the last sleeve button holes. This buttonhole is a hand made wonder as it add around 20 minutes of extra working time per button hole which in industrial production is forever. Using a combination of hand made and top machine made in my opinion brings the best of both worlds in a TF suits.

 

If you want to discuss canvas quality and shoulder pad types and other manufacturing techniques TF vs SR indeed I will be happy too :)

 

Finally I should perhaps tell you that I have actually spend several days with Henry Pools to learn about SR manufacturing and that my day job is Technical expert and Pattern Maker in men's wear manufacturing having visited several of the finest factories in Italy but also the factory in China that produced the TF staff clothing so I doubt I could be much better informed to make my statements but I am always wiling to have a professional discussion and learn new things from other enthusiast in this business that I love.

 

One of the reasons I jump to the defense of TF is that its actually the only premium brand I would "consider" getting a suit from because I really love his styling but of course I would not be able to justify to spend the extra at least 2000 $ added simply because the label says "Tom Ford" but still I wish I had enough money to not care about this :) Its like buying Apple. Overpriced but if you want Apple performance there is no other way...

 

And regarding fabrics. No there are indeed fabrics that tailors are unable to work with and that are too difficult to handle in a hand cutting process. SR tailors rarely work with fabrics below 15 microns and yes you probably could order any exotic blend you would wish but SR would not give give you this fabric selection in their bunches and you would be more likely to find this in the selection books at TF.

 

Best regards

 

Peter

Peter:


Interesting, well, I feel like you answered your own question.

 

The handwork in the attachment of the sleeves and shoulders, and the small details such as a handmade buttonhole which, to the trained eye, is a fine detail. I'd say the same thing can be said with hand padding the lapel.  Possibly the way the collar is attached, also.  Its small details that make a difference.  I mean, really, once you get past fully canvassed construction, I feel like we are splitting hairs regarding quality (fabric & material of the canvassing, possibly).  I believe, and I could be mistaken, the handwork helps the suits adjust & mold to your body over time better.

 

I am not sure anyone would say that Tom Ford is a bad product - only that it is very expensive.  From a pure quality perspective, I am not sure it is worth it.  But if you have the money for it, I am not sure you really care about bang for your buck. Just like I really like Ralph Lauren Purple Label, which, I believe, has more handwork than the TF. But, again, I wouldn't pay for the made to measure service, if it costs more than bespoke.  RLPL is also very British in styling, despite being made in Italy.

 

Oh, and I am curious about the difference between the shoulder padding used and the canvassing used.  If I am not mistaken, the canvassing is linen, but, I am always interested to learn more about the suit-making process, if you do not mind explaining. I do find this stuff fascinating - I have no idea why, but I really do.


Edited by jonathanS - 10/27/15 at 12:23pm
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