Originally Posted by Peter Jahns
Would love to know why you consider the "quality" of a Savil Row Bespoke Suit to be far superior to a Tom Ford Made to Measure. I would stake the claim that a TF suit quality wise fully measures up the that of Savil Row and that the Italian producers use an even higher quality inner materials or should we just call them different in compare to what they use at SR. If you go to a Savil Row bespoke tailor you get a different product and a model that has been customized from the feet up but still with in the limits of the "house style". The SR tailors are not going to copy a TF suit but instead make their interpretation of the model specifications you provide (if any). If you enjoy the look, feel and spirit of a TF suit you could probably not be happy with a SR suit since one is a British classic product and the other i a modern Italian product. Its a bit like comparing Bentley with Ferrari. Both incredible car producers but their cars are still night and day in terms of driving experience, feel and look. TF Made to measure will offer a more exotic fabric collection as well as the factories can work with a broader range of fabrics than small atelier tailor can do, so if you are into the extrem microns of special blends like cashmere/mohair for example TF will be the better choice. Anyways I have the greatest respect for both SR and TF products and yes both are heavily overpriced but so are most luxury products that are desirable meant for people who are making "too much" money ;)
Im bored, so I'll bite.
First of all, I want to make something clear, Tom Ford styling is not Italian in the slightest bit. Its very Savile Row. Tom Ford, draws his inspiration from the Golden Era of Hollywood, which is to say, Cary Grant, Fred Astaire, Rock Hudson, Bing Crosby, Gregory Peck etc. - all of whom had their suits made bespoke on savile row, from various houses, including Huntsman, Kilgour, Anderson and Sheppard, Henry Poole etc. Specifically, atleast to me, the Tom Ford suits is very Huntsman in styling, maybe he has slightly wider lapels, but, on the broad points, he has a strong shoulder, nipped in waist. Keep in mind, Tom Ford has stated that, if he did not produce his own clothing and suit line, he would get his suits made on savile row. Tom Ford has his own style, otherwise, why else would you go Tom Ford made to measure when you can do Zegna Made to measure (I really don't understand your argument about house style - if you are on the row, and have a specific house style you like, go to the house that fits your needs the best).
Second, in terms of quality, Tom Ford Suits are made by Zegna, which is, while a very good product, machine made. I am not knocking Zegna or Tom Ford in the slightest bit, they are both very good products, but the suits on savile row, in true bespoke fashion are handmade, with a gradual hand padding of the lapels to give the roll a truly elegant look. For true bespoke, a customer has atleast 1, usually multiple, fittings such that the tailor can make adjustments for your posture, the slope of your shoulder, etc. Further, the hand stitches in the jacket, which your body will feel, will allow the canvassing and suit to adjust to your body over time better than a machine-made suit - the hand stitches, you cannot see from the outside, but your body can feel it when you put it on.
The benefit of Tom Ford is that he creates a product and you can see it right away, walk out the door with the product. With made-to-measure you are relying on a sales associate to measure you who does not actually produce the product. On Savile Row, sure there are individuals, who has been creating suits for years, who measure you, but they also see the production process of your suit. With respect to the finest wools, if you want to go into a savile row shop, I'd imagine they could order vicuna wool (or any wool-cashmere flannel or mohair blends you want) for you if you really wanted (it wouldn't be cheap, especially for the vicuna).
I think a better comparison to Savile Row Bespoke would be a Brioni or Kiton made-to-measure. Price-wise, I don't know how much Tom Ford made to measure is, but I'd venture to say, RTW is ~5-6K, so MTM would ballpark ~7-8K, starting. Huntsman is the most expensive, I believe at 4400 Pounds. Savile Row probably takes longer, but those are the trade offs.
Finally, with all due respect, you really need to do a little bit more research on Savile Row and Tom Ford Suiting because you wouldn't have said 90% of what you said if you just used the search tool on styleforum - this forum is like a bastion of information about menswear and men's style. I say all this, admiring the Tom Ford styling, and have several zegna suits / sportscoats in my closet.