YOHJI YAMAMOTO SS2015
YOHJI YAMAMOTO MENSWEAR SPRING SUMMER 2015 PARIS
"Do we ever find ourselves?" offered implicitly Yohji Yamamoto as food for thought through his summer collection shown in Paris on June 26th. From a lost pet notice to questioning the construction of one’s identity? That’s Yohji for you.
This was not by any means an exercise of novelty, but it was a lesson of style. Many designers have tapped into all the ideas quintessentially Yohji over the years, but he has always stuck to his guns, waiting for the pendulum to swing back his way. More than ever, those were his proportions, his way of using fabric, his back-revealing cuts. One need not look for grand fashion declarations, or upheavals. Simply put, his silhouettes are unmistakably, irrevocably Yohji, identifiable from twenty paces away yesterday and tomorrow.
But while he was feeling lost, there was no despair. The unmistakable throaty voice of Bruce Springsteen evoked the kind of endlessly open spaces, but Yamamoto populated them with his travelers, part itinerant Japanese craftsman, part Western-style cowhand.
And another thing; while he’s often used fabrics that had a shopworn hand to them, here, they felt new - like those bright and crisp tan leather trousers, or the way the thick Japanese cotton designs didn't look muted by repeated washes - their beauty suggesting that perhaps the journey had yet to begin. That’s a powerful statement coming from a designer in his seventh decade.
Whether or not we find ourselves remains to be seen, but Yamamoto seems to have never, ever lost his sense of direction when it comes to his work. Once again, Yohji was doing Yohji, but only he does it so well.