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post #16 of 22

Some examples of stuff that I think is similar:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


(this whole collection)



You tend to get stuff with those patterns in a trendy tight cut in stores, though, but like I said I have no idea if Haider is doing the same thing which is why i put a strikethrough in the post, and it's also probably more to do with what US webstores are buying.  Barney's did get one of each size of the silk paisley robe :inlove: 

post #17 of 22
I see what you're getting at but to me Dries is refined and tasteful, even in the sort of far afield kimono-y no shirt high shine womenswear-y fabric looks above...on the other hand Hackerman is pretty unabashedly gaudy and almost kitschy.

I think it is very very hard, probably impossible, to be a designer and not produce clothes for market with a market ready mentality. These companies are businesses at the end of the day, most of them with very high overhead and relatively meager profit margins and limited cashflow.

personally I've never seen anything dries in a store with a trendy tight fit. I've played with things that were trim or fitted, but nothing ever tight. Trendy is a tricky word also. Camo is trendy for the season or three that it first re surges and then a while later there's a street level rush and some concomitant mass market exposure and then the inevitable decline and backlash...but is camo still trendy today in 2014? I dunno, I don't think so. Maybe in some circles. where's that trend cycle graph image?
post #18 of 22
He straddles the line well between producing mass market stuff that's appealing to me as well and some really interesting clothes, in my opinion. That said, a lot of his short coats and knits are really cropped.

Fwiw I really like the aackerman collection
post #19 of 22
Originally Posted by KingJulien View Post

Yes, look at the marketing shots from stores like barneys, the corner, or what gets posted on Tumblr. They tend to display the patterned skinny suits and tight pants. It's not like I hold it against him, I own some of that. Maybe the dude just really likes tight suits but I don't think it's a stretch to say that a designer who owns an independent brand has some marketing in mind when he designs his collections.

the first point isn't really indicative of what dries is thinking. marketing shots from barneys, the corner, etc. are created by those outlets to sell stuff. they're not running anything by dries to make sure he's ok with it. the second point, that maybe he just likes tight suits, makes it clear that this is just an assumption. fact is we don't know. maybe he does like that stuff. he's done plenty of it over the years. still a far cry from "pandering." i'm sure he does design with marketing in mind, but he doesn't run any ads so the only marketing he does is the runway shows and his store windows. (he's also said in interviews that runway shows are his way of communicating his message to his audience.) now if you think the runway shows pander to fashion bois that's another matter.
post #20 of 22
Hrm sounds like how the archive and places will ONLY buy 90% black 9% grey and 1% other colored pieces from brands like Attachment and M.A.+ where both brands actually produce some pretty vibrant/loud colors. Doesn't really mean that Attachment caters to super gothed out gothninjas...
post #21 of 22
Thread Starter 





Once again Haider Ackermann went with a relaxed and approachable runway presentation of his menswear collection. Guests stood about sipping iced drinks while the designer casually sent out models to stroll down a make shift catwalk that meandered inside and out a bare bones Parisian residence.

In direct contradiction to its surroundings, the Ackermann garments were lush and ornate. A rich yet dusty, jewel-hued color palette of pieces layered together in a nonchalant way that must have taken hours to get just right. All the velvet varsity jackets, jacquard drop crotch pants, fitted vests over loose shirting, chinoiserie silk dressing gown coats, and long looping scarves closely echoed the personal style of the designer himself. Although, the easy inclusion of Saskia de Brauw and Liya Kebede into the mix of male models proved that the pieces had real cross over potential.

The introduction of shinny patent leather pants on the first exit injected a slight rock and roll energy into the mix and showed promise for a new direction for the designer. But it was left unfulfilled. As beautifully as his laissez-faire designs were, it would have been nice to see the designer push out of his wheelhouse just a bit more.

post #22 of 22
Best collection of the entire season as far as I'm concerned. Still completely unwearable though
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