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Poplin Fabric

post #1 of 8
Thread Starter 

Greetings gentlemen,


I have a few off-the-rack poplin shirts that I absolutely love - the crisp look/feel, and the lightness.  And to my addled brain and body, the fabric seems cooler in the summer too.    


[NB:  I know many say that Oxford/pinpoint weaves are cooler - because they breath better, but I swear that poplins are cooler.  (I suspect perhaps that the oxford weave creates a kind of insulation when worn in conjunction with a jacket - at least that's my theory, lol)]


Unfortunately, it seems to me that not many made-to-measure outfits (Brooks, for example) carry poplin.  They claim broadcloth is poplin, but it just ain't.  


So I'm wondering if there is some way I can purchase high quality poplin myself?  Or is that one of those tightly controlled industries where you cannot simply purchase the good stuff?  


Or, do you know of a made-to-measure who offers poplin?  



post #2 of 8
You can buy fabrics fron the best shirting mills not only in poplin but with the best soft finishing and high grade as 200/2 ply that might be 4 times finer that what is normaly used by rtw shirtmakers, from 40 to 80/2 max.
post #3 of 8
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by Katzenjammer View Post

[NB:  I know many say that Oxford/pinpoint weaves are cooler - because they breath better, but I swear that poplins are cooler.  (I suspect perhaps that the oxford weave creates a kind of insulation when worn in conjunction with a jacket - at least that's my theory, lol)]



Does anyone have an opinion on whether poplins or oxford shirting fabrics are cooler?  

post #4 of 8
Hi again, it depends on the weight of the fabric, as can be a 65 gram/meter poplin or a 300gr. one and also in how compacted the weave is. But on same conditions i think poplin runs fresher.
post #5 of 8
Thread Starter 
Thanks SartodiNapoli!

Yes, I think that's true too. I was talking with a well-known clothing mavin here in NYC this past spring, and he was the one who told me that oxford weaves are cooler. And his explanation made sense: because of the weave it allows air to pass through more easily than poplin. Also, it doesn't stick to perspirating skin the way that poplin does (that last point IS true I believe)

But it's one of those things that seems to be true theoretically, but in practice I just cannot agree. He said it was in my head.

I purchased a few oxford (pinpoint and regular) weaves a few months ago - and I must say that I have to disagree with him; oxford clothes seem much hotter. Although I hate to disagree with someone who so obviously knows more about clothes than I do, lol.

Anyway, thanks for your response!

post #6 of 8
I'm hardly an expert on this, but I think you need to draw a distinction between what you're actually talking about here. "Fresher" can mean different things. Are you talking about feeling dry, or feeling cool because the two are not the same.

The way the human body works is that sweat is created to conduct heat away from the body. The longer the sweat remains on the skin, the more heat we lose. Feeling clammy may not be enjoyable, but it should be a good way to lose bodyheat.

I can believe that oxford vs poplin of equal weights will mean the oxford will make you feel drier due to the openness of the weave and the effect of this on air permeability, but the drier you are the less heat you lose. And poplin clings to the skin when you're sweaty? Great, that means the insulating layer of air you had between your skin and your shirt is now gone, and the heat can pass right through the conductive moisture from your skin to the outside of the shirt. This is the opposite of feeling fresh in my book, but it'll feel cooler because it's literally a more efficient way to move heat out and away from your body.

There's a reason why the government where I live makes announcements almost every winter urging people not to wear cotton. Wool dries easily and leads the moisture away from your body so you stay dry and warm, cotton gets wet and stays wet for hours and hours, acting as a heat conductor leading bodywarmth away from your body, people die from this every year.

And of course there's the fact that poplin tends to be lighter weight than oxford. I don't know if this is a necessity, but it's what I've found to be the case, so if I want to put on my thinnest and lightest shirt, that'd be a poplin shirt, and if I was going to wear an oxford shirt instead, the thinnest oxford I have would be considerably thicker than the thinnest poplin. So in terms of both heat and moisture transport, that should be a bad thing. For two weaves of equal weight, obviously a more open structure is an advantage, but if the open structured weave tends to be heavier than the tighter weave, it becomes a balancing game of which effect dominates. Oxford has a more open weave I'm sure, but when the "tight" poplin is so thin I can easily see through it, my suspicion is that quite a bit of air gets through it as well. My experience is certainly that wearing just a thin poplin shirt in the wind is a lot breezier than wearing a thicker oxford shirt.
post #7 of 8
Thread Starter 

Silverfox, that is a superb post.  Makes a great deal of sense to me.  Very well said sir.  

post #8 of 8
There is a lot of misinformation here .
Fabrics come in all kind of density regardless if it is " Popelin Broadcloth" "Oxford" ,"Pin point"
" Royal" and so on even Twills come in different thickens and density
When a fabric is so densely woven it loses airiness.
You want something that is airy Voile is what you need ,Good voile as very hight twisted stands
witch make is more breathable.
I do not sell fabrics but I make shirts,
In the last few mouths I lost my two main Height quality suppliers .
I am like you and want to source good fabric at a decent price.
To the OP ,do you plan to make your shirts? If not ask your shirtmaker.
As far as I know "Acorn" is a very good supplier with an extended range of fabrics
A little expansive for me " Very little discount to the trade "
The best thing is the "Feel test"
Freddy Vandecasteele
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