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Adding buttons to pants (for braces)

post #1 of 14
Thread Starter 
I just got my first pair of real braces (the button-on kind) from Albert Thurston, and am going to the tailor tomorrow to have alterations made to a suit I recently bought on eBay. I've heard conflicting opinions on this topic, and searches here and on AskAndy have failed to turn up a definitive answer: When you add buttons to your pants to accommodate braces, where do you have them placed (i.e., inside the waistband, outside the waistband, fronts in/rears out, etc.)? Also, as to placement: the rear pair of buttons obviously has to straddle the rear seam of the pants, but how far apart should they be placed? And for the front; where should the buttons be placed? (Most sources I've found seem to agree that the inner button goes directly over the innermost pleat, but vary on the placement of the outboard button.) Finally, do you normally have the tailor remove the belt loops when they add the buttons?
post #2 of 14
The tailor should know how far apart buttons should be placed (if you're desperate to know, I can check on my suits). Only have the buttons placed on the outside if you'll never wear the trousers without braces (I always have mine placed inside the waistband). Have the belt loops removed, and ask the tailor to fashion some side adjusters with the excess material taken from the bottom of the trousers when hemming.
post #3 of 14
JFK, the brace buttons can be either inside or outside the waistband (although if you're going to have them outside, they should match up with the other buttons, i.e., blend in with the suit's color ground). It's up to you. When vested suits were worn, the buttons went outside for comfort's sake; I've seen well-dressed guys have them set up however they want (front buttons inside, rear buttons outside, for comfort when sitting, for example). The front buttons should be set so that the innermost buttons on the waistband line directly up with the center pleat (the pleat bisecting the leg). The others go just forward of the trouser's side seam. The rear buttons are equidistant from the trouser's center back seam (approx. 2" each from the seam). And yes, do have the tailor remove the belt loops, esp. if you're going to wear the suit exclusively with braces. What kind of Thurstons did you buy?
post #4 of 14
I always place the buttons inside, and I never remove the belt loops--sometimes I don't feel like wearing braces, and I've never been into adjustable side tabs. The tailor should be able to figure out the placement width without any guidance, and it's a fast and easy job to reposition them if you don't like how the pants drape. But if you like, take the braces along when you go to get the alterations measured, and then your tailor will be able to look at them. I think (without any suit pants to refer to today) the front inside button goes at or just inside the first pleat, and the outside button goes about two inches to the outside of that. The back buttons are about two inches apart, centered on the back seam.
post #5 of 14
Quote:
The front buttons should be set so that the innermost buttons on the waistband line directly up with the center pleat (the pleat bisecting the leg).  The others go just forward of the trouser's side seam.  The rear buttons are equidistant from the trouser's center back seam (approx. 2" each from the seam).
OK, so I should have looked at a pair of brace-buttoned pants before opening my mouth.
post #6 of 14
Quote:
I just got my first pair of real braces (the button-on kind) from Albert Thurston, and am going to the tailor tomorrow to have alterations made to a suit I recently bought on eBay. I've heard conflicting opinions on this topic, and searches here and on AskAndy have failed to turn up a definitive answer: When you add buttons to your pants to accommodate braces, where do you have them placed (i.e., inside the waistband, outside the waistband, fronts in/rears out, etc.)? Also, as to placement: the rear pair of buttons obviously has to straddle the rear seam of the pants, but how far apart should they be placed? And for the front; where should the buttons be placed? (Most sources I've found seem to agree that the inner button goes directly over the innermost pleat, but vary on the placement of the outboard button.) Finally, do you normally have the tailor remove the belt loops when they add the buttons?
It's a tricky issue when you put braces buttons on pants that didn't have them in the first place. I adore braces (and GREAT choice on the Albert Thurston's--marvelous), but I would keep the loops on whatever pants you intend to add the buttons just in case it doesn't work out. koji
post #7 of 14
Thread Starter 
Thanks, MPS - I'm pretty sure the tailor will know how to space the buttons, but I like to have a good idea of the answer before I ask the question; that way, I can better evaluate the tailor's recommendation. And I appreciate the tip about using the extra material from the hems to make side adjusters. masterfred, thanks for the in-depth response. Here's a picture of the braces I bought (the description - from their website - 1 1/2" / 38mm wide, a bulldog motif jacquard woven silk brace with gilt fittings and black goatskin leather ends): retronotmetro, I appreciate the response - you say it's easy to reposition the buttons, but I'm all thumbs with a needle and thread... koji, thanks for your response - I'm leaning toward having the buttons placed inside the waist band, and both you and retronotmetro offer reasonable arguments for leaving the belt loops on, at least temporarily...
post #8 of 14
I have just asked the dry cleaner to add them when I drop of my cleaning. He has always added them for free, and I have never had a placement problem. -Tom
post #9 of 14
Quote:
retronotmetro, I appreciate the response - you say it's easy to reposition the buttons, but I'm all thumbs with a needle and thread...
I meant easy for the tailor. I wouldn't do it myself, either.
post #10 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
I meant easy for the tailor.  I wouldn't do it myself, either.
post #11 of 14
I have worn trousers with braces for years. But it was only last year when I had some suits made that the tailor educated me where the front brace buttons really should go. (I think Masterfred has it right.) What a difference. In the past, the brace buttons were always placed too far towards the hip. Now, with the brace buttons a bit more centrally placed, the trouser hangs comfortably, as it should. I would urge you to take Masterfred's reply with you to a good tailor.
post #12 of 14
I always heard you place them directly to each side of the testicles in front, so as to create a pleasing package for the ladies. Eegads. Have I been wrong all this time? ( )
post #13 of 14
Proper placement for brace buttons is as follows: front buttons start over first pleat and space 3" apart toward side pockets. Rear buttons are spaced 2" off of center seam (total of 4" between them). Note: make sure whomever is sewing on your buttons anchors them all the way through to the Ban-Rol (the stiff interlining) so that when you wear your braces, the waistband lining does not pull up and over the waistband.
post #14 of 14
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Note: make sure whomever is sewing on your buttons anchors them all the way through to the Ban-Rol (the stiff interlining) so that when you wear your braces, the waistband lining does not pull up and over the waistband.
Thanks for the tip; I'll make sure they do this.
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