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Please critique my first WW Chan Suit

cuffthis

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From the pics, suit looks nice. Question though - how can the trousers end up so far off in length? That should be the easiest measurent? They are a good 2 inches too long?
 

a tailor

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looks like you have a right low shoulder. if that shoulder were picked up then thw right sleeve would not need to be shortened.
 

bslo

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Does anyone think that the shoulders are just a tiny bit too narrow (there are ridges below the shoulders on the arms)? Or is it just the way that the shoulders were made?
 

teddieriley

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Originally Posted by bslo
Does anyone think that the shoulders are just a tiny bit too narrow (there are ridges below the shoulders on the arms)? Or is it just the way that the shoulders were made?
First. Thanks for the input. It's funny, but apparently my right shoulder does droop lower than my left - and that's due to my posture. I even made an effort to lift my right shoulder just for my pics according to my gf's suggestion. I guess my posture is just crooked. Suit was not straight out of the box. It's been on a hanger for a week and I let it steam in the bathroom for a good 15 minutes when I took it out of the box. Might have not been enough and I don't have a steamer. You know, breaks with pants confuse me. If you get them to break once in the front, they tend to be very short in the back (i.e. sit on top of shoe rather than covering part of the heel). Plus, the pants are pretty narrow, so the back might have been sitting on my shoe in the pic, making the front break a lot. Perhaps I'll consider getting the pants hemmed at an angle. With respect to bslo's comments - that's what one of my concerns are. I noticed the ridging under the shoulders too, and more so on the right - but as Ed suggests, maybe it needs a better steam. Or it could be too narrow, I'm not sure. But I notice this ridging on a lot of suits.
 

matadorpoeta

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
First. Thanks for the input. It's funny, but apparently my right shoulder does droop lower than my left - and that's due to my posture. I even made an effort to lift my right shoulder just for my pics according to my gf's suggestion. I guess my posture is just crooked.

You know, breaks with pants confuse me. If you get them to break once in the front, they tend to be very short in the back (i.e. sit on top of shoe rather than covering part of the heel). Plus, the pants are pretty narrow, so the back might have been sitting on my shoe in the pic, making the front break a lot. Perhaps I'll consider getting the pants hemmed at an angle.


everyone has one shoulder lower than the other.

your pants should never cover any part of the heel of your shoe. i'm not sure what you mean by that one.
 

teddieriley

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I think the shoes work. But that's just my taste. Might not be the most appropriate color, but I have others I'll rotate in with it anyway.

Curious, you all mention stylistic things. One I heard was the lapel width, which I kind of like.

What other stylistic things are there??
 

oldseed

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Originally Posted by teddieriley
Suit was not straight out of the box. It's been on a hanger for a week and I let it steam in the bathroom for a good 15 minutes when I took it out of the box. Might have not been enough and I don't have a steamer.

a dry cleaner can just press it, without dry cleaning it. just ask for a press only.
 

zjpj83

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could the amount of drape on your right side be caused by the drop shoulder too?

Did you ask them to do very light shoulder padding? It has less than my stuff, and I like it.
 

teddieriley

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Originally Posted by zjpj83
could the amount of drape on your right side be caused by the drop shoulder too?

Did you ask them to do very light shoulder padding? It has less than my stuff, and I like it.


I did ask for less padding - "more natural shoulder" (whatever that means to Chan) and a lighter chest piece.

If the ridging on my upper arm (under the shoulder pad) is more or less typical depending on body proportions and posture, then I think this suit is a nice slim fit.
 

teddieriley

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Originally Posted by offline100
Great looking three-piece man. The trousers are way too long, but that's easy to fix.

I also feel like there's a touch too much material in the back below the collar. Maybe you're standing up straighter than you were when you were measured, or maybe you're right that you just have a bony back. Let Patrick look at it when you see him -- and make sure to stand with your normal posture.

I don't think the arms look too slim. I think that's a good proportion for you.

What do you think about the side tabs? I almost went with these on my own first Chan I just ordered ... but someone else said they were bit flimsy and disappointing.


Thanks. Interesting you think there is too much material in the back below the collar. I thought all the curving in the fabric was because it might be too slim with not enough material, so it's getting pulled so it doesn't rest flat. I'm actually not bony, but used to lift a lot, so my muscle development in the trap area is probably causing the look you see.

I'm happy with side tabs. I'm no expert, but I don't think they are cheap or anything. They could be more substantial (based on looking at some side tab David Chu's I just bought from Ed), but the constructions of the trousers overall is excellent.
 

Sartorian

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Anyone else notice that fabulous manicure? Nice duds. I agree with others about the shoes being a bit too light (though they are nice shoes), but that's a stylistic choice, not any kind of fashion faux pas.
 

Renault78law

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Originally Posted by bslo
Does anyone think that the shoulders are just a tiny bit too narrow (there are ridges below the shoulders on the arms)? Or is it just the way that the shoulders were made?

I agree, and have the same problem with my Chan suit. I'd increase the shoulder width slightly, decrease the amount of padding, and possibly increase the circumference of the upper sleeves.
 

bslo

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Originally Posted by Renault78law
I agree, and have the same problem with my Chan suit. I'd increase the shoulder width slightly, decrease the amount of padding, and possibly increase the circumference of the upper sleeves.

Good advice.
 

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